Fort cochin, Kerala is so much more than Chinese fishing nets.
People came from all over the world to the Malabar coast to discover, explore and trade.
Non-stop torrential rains, flood, water dam over-flowing, airport closure for two weeks and fear of an epidemic outbreak in the aftermath — but nothing could stop us from traveling to Fort Cochin as planned. So glad we did.
Earlier this year I took a travel writing class at an arts college in Singapore. As part of the course 11 of my course mates, each from different backgrounds, wrote, read aloud, re-wrote and captured some of our travels past and present on screen and sometime on paper. One of my course mates wrote about Sarah, a 95 year old Jewish living in Fort Cochin, Kerala, India. His eloquent recollection of the trip captured my heart. Later I manage to convince two BFFs to take a trip to the Malabar coast with me. Despite all obstacles we went, we explored, and we fell in love.
Chinese fishing nets forget me not
Let’s get this top tourist attraction out of the way so we can delve into the real Fort Cochin.
It was early Sunday morning. Fort Cochin was slowly waking up from the weekend slumber. The streets were deserted just for the moment. We stepped out of the auto and paid the agreed 20 rupees. The morning air was still crisp. At the end of the short street was the famous Fort Cochin beach. The famous Chinese fishing nets were a few metres away. We wanted to see what all the fuss is about, take some photos for Instagram and be on our way.
The nets were first introduced by the Chinese traders in the early 14th century. Its unique to the area and still in use. It’s believe that the Chinese named the area Co-chin (like China).
We stepped onto the platform leading out to the nets installed near the shore with multiple ropes balanced by large rocks that look like pebbles, some painted bright red. The nets were tied to a machine designed to lower and pull them in and out of sea. Few fishermen had arrived bright and early. They nodded attentively and smiled cordially. The nets were out of the water being pulled by the hydraulic machine. A few thin men wearing shorts and brown coloured lungis swiftly ran towards the nets. One of them pulled the nets closely and collected the catch of small fishes. I wanted them to throw the baby fishes back to the sea for future sustainability but that did not happen and I’m sure my preaching won’t help.
As we were leaving, four Chinese female tourists arrived on the platform. All the men at dock went into a frenzy and greeted them, as we left feeling Indian and ignored. So go early, snap picture and leave.
Tea Pot Cafe. Let’s make a fuss about Chai & Samosas
If you expect polished plush seats this is not the place for you. Rustic with old world charm is the Tea Pot cafe (the same people run the Raintree Lodge nearby). We perused the menu and ordered masala chai, samosas, samosas chaat (savoury snack) and a cheese cake (skip it).
Let me start with the masala chai: fresh milk boiled with mixed spices then slowly steeped with tea dust and carefully strained into a tiny clay pot. As I sipped bursts of spices conquered my palate with echos of silky frothy milk.
Next, Samosas and Samosas Chaat. Flavourful dough spread out in triangle pockets filled with delicious potato peas filling, folded with love then deep fried to perfection. The Chaat were the same samosas smashed mercilessly then topped with mint coriander chutney, red chili garlic chutney, sweet tamarind dates chutney, smeared with fresh homemade yogurt and garnished with a generous helping of chopped red onions and sev (deep fried flour based snack). A squeeze of lime to bring it all together. Pleasures of the world are simple but memorable.
Colonial architectures are everywhere
The Portuguese, then the Dutch, then the British have left Fort Cochin an architecture marvel and for you to explore by foot. Timid streets are lined with building, houses, churches and courtyards. Some worth mentioning are St. Francis Church, built in 1503 where the famous explorer Vasco Da Gama was once buried. Next up the carefully preserved Santa Cruz Basilica also built by the Portuguese in 16th century then rebuilt by the British near the end of 19th century. Just take a stroll late evening to fully appreciate these colonial masterpieces.
Mattancherry and Jew Town
First stop was Mattancherry Palace also called the Dutch Palace. From outside it did not look like a palace at all because of worn out facade. After some contemplation we decided to see inside. First there’s a collection of murals from Indian mythological stories, impressive and well preserved. We went through few galleries depicting the lives of Kings of Kochi which gave us a glimpse of history. We learned that in the past the palace is quadrangle in shape and built in the Nalukettu style, the traditional Kerala style architecture, with a courtyard in the middle. Like many palaces in India, this courtyard houses a small temple dedicated to the goddess Pazhayannur Bhagavati, the guardian goddess of the Kochi Royal family.
Next we headed to the world famous Paradesi synagogue. Its the oldest active synagogue in the nations of Commonwealth. Built in 1567 on the land given by Raja Varma a famous Raja of Kochi. Both the Mattancherry Palace and the synagogue shares a common wall.
The Cochin Jews, also known as the Malabar Jews, are believed to have settled around Kochin as early as the 12th century. After India’s independence in 1947 and Israel established as a nation most Jews emigrated back in 1950s. In case you were wondering if I saw Sarah, yes I did. She looked very old and tired and I did not want to disturb her. Even at 95 she still runs her embroidery shop. God bless her.
We ended our walk of Jew town with a local drink called ginger soda (ginger juice topped with cold soda) at the famous Ginger house restaurant.
Kathakali: a story-play performance
All male-cast Kathakali is one of the classical Indian dance forms. If you are in Kerala don’t miss it. We headed to the Kerala Kathakali Centre, just across Santa Cruz Basilica. The centre organises a performance every day (yes 365 days a year) at 5pm. It starts with the performers applying elaborate make-up followed by an explanation of the history by the centre director. For the next hour or so a short scene from Mahabaratha was performed. The earlier explanation helped us to better understand this distinct art form from Kerala. We three enjoyed it immensely.
Fort Cochin was a trip of serendipity for me. I left wanting more. I’ll go back. Soon.
