We sometimes don't realize they exist until we hear their loud cackles, the sound of their beer bottles clashing or them telling us in the most inviting manner, "Jamva chaalo ji!" (come dine). The Parsi community, originally from Iran, is said to have created ‘Bombay' as it is today. Besides their many contributions in various fields, they have also given Mumbai several iconic buildings that adorn the streets today—several that you look past but don't see.
Today, on Navroze (Parsi New Year), we take you on a virtual heritage walk past a few structures that deserve your interest and admiration. Sit back, with a drink in hand, and take in this rich history with a feast—just like the Parsis around the world will be doing today.
SIR J J COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE Being one of the oldest, most reputed institutions in India, the Jamsetji Jejeebhoy College of Architecture is part of the vast campus of the JJ School of Arts. Established in 1913, and located on Dadabhai Naoroji Road, the college consists of two buildings designed by George Wittet—the Scottish architect, who also designed the Gateway of India. The two majestic buildings of the college, with sloping roofs and mezzanine flooring, are now easily over a hundred years old, and were built keeping in tandem with the Ornamental Edwardian Baroque style of the rest of the campus.
DEUTSCHE BANK, TATA PALACE This majestic white building is challenging to miss at Hazarimal Somani Marg, Fort. Formally the Tata residence known as Tata Palace, the landmark now houses Deutsche Bank House. Built in 1912, the snowy building is breathtakingly palatial and pictorial. It's ivory structure is complemented with an expansive courtyard and baroque façade, along with a statue-lined terrace adding to the luxuriant architecture of the structure.
ESPLANADE HOUSE Being one of several Tata homes , the Esplanade House may be an easy miss being tucked away among a few trees and bushes. Designed by the firm Gostling, Morris and Jamshetji Tata himself, the building that is now owned by the R D Sethna Scholarship Fund has won an Honorable mention in the 2014 UNESCO Asia-Pacific awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation. Built in Renaissance Revival architectural style, the 19th-century structure was one of the first residences in Mumbai (then, Bombay) to have electricity and an elevator. The house consists of two buildings—the main one faces the maidan (courtyard) while the other houses an annex behind. Three types of flooring have been serviced in the construction of the residence—mosaic at the entrance, marble for the staircase and Minton tiling for the roof. The cast-iron and wooden staircase adds to the grand palatialness of this landmark, paired with its ceilings lined in gold, displaying intricate oil painting and inlay work. The Esplanade House is an iconic a reflection of the illustrious Tata Empire.
J N PETIT INSTITUTE LIBRARY Being the awardee of the Urban Heritage Award in 1990 by the Bombay Heritage Society, the J N Petit Institute is worth a double glance. The gothic styled structure is not only noted for having the largest reading room in Asia, but also for maintaining its period architecture. Its interiors house walls adorned in pastel green and intricately stained glass windows. A dozen Parsi students fresh out of Elphinstone College founded the library in 1856. The library consists of records and books that date back a 100 years. The intricate work on the windows, the tall hovering ceiling, along with portraits of the Petit family that hang on the walls, give the readers something to gaze at during their occasional reading breaks.
NAVSARI BUILDING Located at DN Road, Fort, the Navsari Building was bought over from the Tatas in 1928 by the Kotak family of industrialists. Named after Tata's native place, Navsari, the building adds dynamism to the bustling road with its red façade. The Navsari Building houses one of the oldest lifts in the city today. The wood paneled elevator is operated manually using a crankshaft. The building is one of the few in the city that plan on preserving its heritage.
MUMBAI SAMACHAR Besides being the ‘in' place to catch up with friends while sipping on Starbucks, Horniman Circle is also a place where you will spot some of the city's finest and oldest buildings, such as The Bombay Samachar building (today, Mumbai Samachar). The industrial building is one of the few from the 1800s that still stands tall today. Maintained fairly well, the red brick façade is quite eye catching. Owned by the Cama family, and also known as Red House, it is Asia's oldest newspaper still in circulation. Benjamin Guy Horniman edited the English paper of Bombay Samachar, the Bombay Chronicle, for several years. Yes, hence ‘Horniman Circle'. Fardoonji Murazban, a priest and journalist founded the Bombay Samachar to contribute to India's freedom struggle. Today the newspaper is headed by Hormusji Nusserwanji Cama, also the owner of the maroon Chevy Bel Air that you will spot while passing the iconic building—one of many adorations of the Parsis. (As seen in the picture, we just couldn't resist it).
SIR H C DINSHAW BUILDING The classic Horniman Circle houses many iconic buildings—several being Parsi-owned. One such is the Sir H C Dinshaw Building, situated along the semi-circle of the roundabout. The stone structure, built in the British Era, is influenced by Italian Gothic architectural style. The masculine-faced keystones that adorn the building's arches add personality, and, if you notice closely, different buildings have individual keystones with different hair-dos, beards, and intricate facial features. The garden situated in front of the building used to be a favourite of the Parsis to sit and relax on a Sunday evening—they even had a band perform quite often. Quite capital, we'd say!
REGAL CINEMA As you approach Colaba Causeway, the first thing that welcomes you is Regal Cinema—true to its name in every sense. In the age of multiplexes and dome theatres, this cinema still stands tall in all its grandeur and art deco style. Designed by Charles Stevens, son of F.W Stevens, whose most notable work is the design of the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the cement structure is a great example of modern simplicity. Built by Framji Sidhwa, the Regal Cinema was chosen as the third venue to host the prestigious Filmfare Awards. Operative by 1933, it won the Urban Heritage Award in 1991. Designed using the motif of sunrays in pale orange and jade green, the main auditorium looks stately yet humble. The interiors are more sharp with mirrored lobbies designed by the Czech artist, Karl Schara.
DARABSHAW AND DUBASH HOUSE Our very own Condé Nast India headquarters—Darabshaw House and Dubash House—bear strong Parsi names and rich heritage. The two buildings in Ballard Estate were commissioned by the British to have similar architecture, with George Wittet designing several landmarks around the area. Both the stone structures are Parsi owned, and today, house the widely eclectic and influential Condé Nast India teams.