How to Figure Out Your Curl Type
Decoding your curl type can be confusing, we feel you. Several different textures can exist on one head of curly hair, which all have to look cohesive in a hairstyle. When the strands at your crown are looser than the ones on the sides, and even more different than the hair in the back, it's easy to just throw up your hands in frustration and contemplate shaving it all off. Which you can totally do!
But, if that's not quite your jam, don't fret. The road to understanding and embracing your texture may be a windy one but it also does not have to be overly complicated. As it stands now, most folks reference a particular hair typing system for curls, one originally dreamed up by hairstylist Andre Walker. We're not going to lie: There's been some debate as to whether the typing system is divisive or even too narrow. It's even gone through a bit of a modification over the years, thanks to folks in the curly community.
Controversy aside, many people have found that even if it isn't perfect, this particular set of guidelines can be useful in at least helping you identify your curl pattern (or patterns) so you know where to start when you're shopping for the best curly hair products. If anything, you want to be able to walk into a store with some idea of what you're looking for to treat your precious crown — and have some baseline knowledge of the best way to style your hair.
It's a lot to think about, sure, but we tapped three industry curl experts to break down some of the finer points of the typing categories. Whether you've got soft bends cascading down your back or tight coils blossoming towards the heavens, there's an easy way to identify exactly what's going on up top. Follow our easy tip sheet below (complete with recommendations for the best products for your curl type) so you can be well on your way to becoming a curl-typing pro.
- Vernon François is a Los Angeles-based hairstylist.
- Anthony Dickey is a hairstylist and owner of the Hair Rules salon and brand.
- Jonathan Matais-Bernard is a Brooklyn-based hairstylist.
Where to Start
"Your curl type is determined by the shape of the follicle that your hair grows out of from your scalp," says hairstylist Vernon François. "The flatter or more oval-shaped the follicle, the curlier your hair; the more circular the cross-section, the straighter your hair. Your curl pattern is also identified by the shape that the strands of hair make, whether they kink, curve, or wind around themselves into spirals."
Most people with textured hair have more than one type of pattern on their head, "so you may have a combination of, say, kinky, coily, wavy, and curly," adds François. Identifying your curl shape and pattern(s) is best determined while your hair is sopping wet.
A simple breakdown: Type 1s are straight, Type 2s are wavy, Type 3s are curly, and Type 4s are coily. Easy, right?
The sub-classifications of A to C are based on the width or diameter of your wave, curl, or coil. Type As have a wider pattern size, Type Bs medium, and Type Cs the smallest of the three. "The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you're better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility," explains Anthony Dickey, the curl wizard behind the Hair Rules salon and brand.
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Type 2 (Wavy Hair)
Type 2 waves are bendable, can be fine to coarse, and have a definitive S pattern that lays closer to the head. This hair type “takes the most amount of time and work to form a curl,” says Brooklyn-based hairstylist Jonathan Matais-Bernard.
This hair type has a fine, barely there texture that's very easy to straighten. People with this texture have to be wary of using heavy styling products that can easily weigh strands down, rendering them limp and lifeless. If that sounds like you, Matais-Bernard recommends opting for lightweight products "with a lot of hold.”
For this, he likes the Davines Curl Moisturizing Mousse. “It gives the perfect balance of hold and weightlessness,” says the stylist.
Type 2A waves also lack volume at the roots. Dickey recommends using an airy, water-based mousse, like the Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, to add a bit of oomph at the base, making hair look fluffier and fuller.
This hair type lies flatter at the crown with defined S-shape waves starting from the mid-length. Strands are thicker in diameter than a 2A, and you'll have to put a bit more elbow grease into getting it straight.
To enhance your natural surfer-babe waves, use a texturizing mist like the Ouai Wave Spray, enriched with rice protein. The Ceremonia Guava Beach Waves Hair Texturizing Spay is another great option for moisturizing and playing up your natural waves without weighing your hair down.
“The struggle with Type 2 curls is longevity, so I always recommend diffusing for maximum volume and hold for curls that tend to flatten throughout the day,” says Matais-Bernard. We love the Curlsmith Defrizzion Travel Hair Dryer & Diffuser because it’s great at reducing frizz and big enough for even the fullest head of curls.
These waves are thick and more susceptible to frizz. The S-bends are well-defined and begin at the roots. Between shampoos, use a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash like the Briogeo Curl Charisma Rice Amino + Shea Hydrating Co-Wash, so you don’t strip essential moisture from strands. This particular product was formulated to work beautifully on all curl textures.
Dickey also recommends layering a leave-in conditioner under a mousse to lock in your natural wave pattern while adding hydration. We like the Verb Curl Leave-In Conditioner and the Design Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse.
Type 3 (Curly Hair)
Type 3 curly hair can range from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews which have some shine.
These strands tend to be shiny with large, loose curls that have a diameter about the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk. To style this hair type, scrunch a curl-enhancing product (like the Best of Beauty Award-winning SGX NYC Curl Power Nourishing Curl Cream) into your damp hair, “raking it through with your hands from roots to ends, and scrunching out the excess water," says Matais-Bernard. This will help emphasize the texture of your curl. Keep your hands from touching your hair afterwards or you’ll run the risk of having a halo of frizz.
To maintain those bouncy springs, simply spritz your hair with a curl refresher, like the Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Refresher Spray. This formula is lightweight, defines curls, and smells amazing.
This hair type has springy ringlets with a circumference similar to that of a Sharpie marker. This texture can get dry, so look for curl gels that have humectants, like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera to attract moisture.
Try Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel. It contains glycerin, which is great for hydrating the hair. The Curls Goddess Botanical Gel is another hydrating gel that defines curls without drying out the hair. A word of advice: "Apply when [your hair is] wet, so you'll get definition without frizz," says Dickey.
Type 3C
Type 3C curls are tight corkscrews that range in circumference from a straw to a pencil. Strands are densely packed together, giving way to lots of natural volume. Frizziness is common with this type, so if that's not a look you're into, use a sulfate-free, creamy cleanser, like the Oyin Handmade Ginger Mint Co-Wash, that won't dry out your hair even more.
Dickey also favors layering a mousse (such as the Best of Beauty-winning Rucker Roots Texture Styling Mousse) over a styling cream (like the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Creme) when the hair is sopping wet to allow curls to clump together and form faster. "Your co-wash reveals your curl pattern, while your styling product captures [it]," explains Dickey.
Type 4 (Coily Hair)
Coily hair, commonly referred to as Afro-textured or kinky hair, is naturally very dry and spongy in texture and can be soft and fine or coarse and wiry. Strands form very tight, small curls of zig-zags right from the scalp and are prone to major shrinkage.
People with Type 4A hair have dense, springy, S-pattern coils that are about the same circumference as a crochet needle. If this sounds like you, look to Yara Shahidi and Megan Thee Stallion's texture here for reference. Wash-and-gos are an easy way to style 4A curls. When doing so, Matais-Bernard recommends “keeping your detangling brush and sectioning clips handy” for extra ease. This styling method should be done more frequently to keep this coily texture soft and pliable.
A curl cream with a leave-in moisturizer is a must for adding more moisture to daily wash-and-go styling. The Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream with the Hair Rules Nourishment Leave-In Moisturizer is Dickey's go-to cocktail combo. The combination of both products will help define your curls without leaving them hard or crunchy. Use a diffuser to dry your curls for even more fluff and volume.
Strands with the 4B pattern are densely packed and can bend in sharp angles like the letter Z. "I love that it can be shaped in many different ways," says François. "One of my favorite products for all kinks, coils, curls, and waves is my Mist Nourishing Water, which is a fantastic primer before styling in a non-aerosol spray. A little goes a long way and hair looks instantly hydrated."
Dickey prefers styling creams, like the Crème of Nature Coconut Milk Curl Hydrating Curling Cream for this hair type because creams are thicker and are great for palm-rolling or shingling, two types of product distribution methods that stretch out coils and clump them for greater texture definition and elongation.
Textures with 4C curls are similar to 4Bs, but the tightly coiled strands are more fragile and have a very tight zigzag pattern that is sometimes indiscernible to the eye. This hair type experiences the greatest amount of shrinkage—about 75% or more—compared to the other textures. If you are a 4C, take your style cues from Kiki Layne. "I love that [this texture] is so versatile," says François.
Since shrinkage and dryness are major concerns for this type, Matais-Bernard recommends using a hair mask, like Mizani Moroccan Clay Steam Mask to “help soften and detangle, while adding intense hydration to thirsty curls.”
After washing, use a liberal amount of leave-in moisturizer, such as the Bread Beauty Hair Cream to add even more moisture. Castor oil is also a great hydrator and sealant for this very dry texture; we like the SheaMoisture 100% Pure Jamaican Black Castor Oil.
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Read more curly hair stories:
- Vegamour's Hydr-8 Shampoo & Conditioner Have Completely Changed My Curls for the Better
- 17 Best Hair Gels for Curly and Coily Hair That'll Make You Forget You Own A Curling Iron
- Hair Plopping Is the Easiest Way to Dry Your Curly Hair
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