Couture’s fashion impact extends beyond the runways. The guests who fill the front row in Paris embody the season’s artistic spirit by bringing dramatic pieces into the real world. At the spring 2020 collections, no one did this better than the Indian film icon Sonam Kapoor Ahuja. At shows such as Elie Saab, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier, Kapoor Ahuja enlivened the proceedings with her presence and a series of unforgettable looks. Whether she wore a sweeping pleated gown paired with a golden cuff choker from sister Rhea’s upcoming collaboration accessorized with Pipa Bella jewelry, or the ultimate white shirtdress, Kapoor Ahuja dazzled.
A risk-taker on the red carpet, she balances elegance with innovation within her wardrobe. So naturally couture, with its boundless creativity, holds a special place in her heart. “There’s something special, magical, and dramatic about couture that goes very well with my personality,” she shared post-season. “I love couture because, as an Indian, we’re very used to having clothes made with a lot of love and care and with a heightened sense of design which is made especially for you.” Though she appreciates ready-to-wear for its ease, couture allows Kapoor Ahuja the chance to see the design world’s masters in their element. “I think fashion is art, it’s a reflection of what is going on in the world,” she says. “Whenever I see a couture show, I feel emotional and amazing; I am seeing art walk in front of me.”
This season Kapoor Ahuja took in the work of a series of designers with whom she shares a personal connection. Firstly, Elie Saab, a perennial favorite who has regularly outfitted her for significant events, including the Cannes Film Festival. “I’ve been wearing Elie since the very beginning,” she said. “Everything that I’ve worn of his on the red carpet makes me feel amazing—he’s given me some of my biggest and most glamorous fashion moments.” The sumptuous collection inspired by Mexico’s Chapultepec Castle and the grandeur of its neoclassical architecture struck a chord. “I love his embroidery and his cuts,” she said.
Next stop, Valentino for Pierpaolo Piccioli’s resplendent womenswear. For Kapoor Ahuja, who has admired the brand since the days when its founder, Valentino Garavani, was at the helm, the show was especially meaningful.“I’ve seen a lot of the Valentino archives in museums, and I’m so inspired by it,” she said. “This collection was especially was wonderful because it was so modern, yet it’s so [influenced by] old-school glamour.”
Still, the grandest event may have been Jean Paul Gaultier’s magnificent final collection. The designer’s swan song, which featured a cast of international celebrities and a full-scale performance from Boy George, was the talk of Paris. Clad in a custom tuxedo-meets-sari created for her by Gaultier as a thoughtful nod to Indian culture, Kapoor Ahuja took in a moment of fashion history. “Gaultier was a very emotional show for me. He was the first designer to ever dress me for a big red carpet,” she said of the ethereal white gown she wore to make her debut at the festival in 2009. “[That was] one of my most memorable and best moments. I think it set the tone for me—I’ll be forever grateful to him.” The mood at the Théâtre du Châtelet may have been bittersweet, but the collection itself was a thrilling celebration. “It was an amazing and incredible show,” she says. “I hope to always wear his clothes; I was sad and happy at the same time.”