The Vogue Guide to St. Moritz in Winter

The hilltop village of St. Moritz, in Switzerland’s Engadin Valley, is one of Europe’s most exclusive ski resorts—here, timeless elegance meets tasteful discretion, all concealed behind the doors of its iconic Art Nouveau hotels and traditional fondue spots. It’s a place where women donning luxury lifestyle labels like Loro Piana and Attersee far outnumber those decked in head-to-toe logos—the latter would find themselves better suited in Courchevel, while boisterous bottle-popping crowds should look to Zermatt and Verbier. The St. Moritz contingent, however, remains rooted in aristocracy and discrete jetsetters nostalgic for the classic glamour that once defined the golden age of après-ski, and that somehow still manages to persist here.

The nostalgic draw of St. Moritz is deeply rooted in history, which it wears on its sleeve like a badge of honor. St. Moritz has been a haven for winter sports since 1864, when it was deemed the birthplace of Alpine winter tourism. The resort has hosted the Winter Olympics twice, and is home to the Cresta Run (a natural ice skeleton racing toboggan track), an Olympic bobsleigh run (the only natural ice bobsleigh run in the world), and an outdoor Olympic ice rink. Each winter season, stylish spectators descend on St. Moritz to revel in a packed calendar of iconic winter events, from the Snow Polo World Cup, to Cresta Run races, to an international horse race on snow.

St. Moritz’s confluence of winter sports and art is one of its most distinctive qualities. While it has a long history of attracting art types like Bruno Bischofberger and Gunter Sachs, who have famously left their mark here, St. Moritz is having a renaissance as of late, what with the likes of Hauser & Wirth’s gallery opening in town in 2018 and the contemporary traveling art fair Nomad Circle staging its second year this winter season—as well as the wellspring of international chefs and esteemed designers and architects working on various new developments in town. With its rich cultural calendar and so much to see and do each year, it’s little wonder that St. Moritz has continued to beguile both sport enthusiasts and culture-seekers alike.

Below, a guide to St. Moritz.

Where to Stay

Badrutt’s Palace—or just the palace, as it’s often referred to by locals—is the polestar of St. Moritz. With 13 diverse food and beverage options both on and off property, the Palace Wellness Spa with Biologique Recherche treatments, VIP after-hours shopping experiences at the luxury boutiques on Via Serlas crafted exclusively for Badrutt’s guests, it’s a destination all on its own. Your royal treatment begins at the train station where one of the hotel’s friendly greeters outfitted in their iconic red uniforms will await you on the platform before whisking you away in the property’s vintage Rolls-Royce (booked upon request). The arrival at Badrutt’s Palace might as well be a scene straight out of Hollywood: a cinematic moment captured the minute you step out of the car and peer up at the neo-Gothic castle with its towering turrets and terraces before being escorted into the marble-clad lobby that extends into the legendary Grand Hall, known as St. Moritz’s living room. Consider yourself lucky if you arrive on time for cocktail hour to see the palace come alive with sounds of the lobby piano echoing through its chambers, as the scent of tobacco wafts from the hotel’s bustling lobby bar. The nostalgic atmosphere and old-timey hospitality—where all the hotel staff somehow knows your name—is transportive, making it easy to imagine why famous faces like Alfred Hitchcock, Charlie Chaplin, and Coco Chanel have historically graced these halls. Everyone is made to feel like someone important at Badrutts.

In many ways, Suvretta House is in a league of its own. As the only ski-in, ski-out hotel in St. Moritz, being a Suvretta House guest is like being a member of an exclusive club. Directly translating to “house above the woods,” Suvretta is exactly that, a regal oasis nestled in a secluded natural park on the outskirts of town. The advantages here, apart from the undisrupted peace and quiet, are many; Suvretta has its own private ski lift adjacent to the hotel with direct access to the slopes and its two mountain restaurants, Trutz and Chasellas. For those wishing to venture to town, Suvretta’s whimsical vintage Ford bus shuttles guests to and from the village every hour free of charge. Whether it’s indulging in the Full English Suvretta House Afternoon Tea in the lobby or terrace, a traditional fondue at Suvretta Stube, an aperitif at Anton’s Bar, or getting dressed up for the best caviar spaghettini you’ll ever have at the Grand Restaurant, you’ll be spoiled for options here—even down to your little ones, who can dine independently at the Teddy Club children’s restaurant in the company of new friends and under attentive care and supervision.

In 1856, Kulm Hotel was the first hotel to open in St. Moritz and has since remained the main base for the winter season’s most sought-after events, given its inextricable link to the Cresta Run, which was built on the hotel grounds in 1891. Kulm Hotel, therefore, remains home to the St. Moritz Cresta Club and Tobogganing Club—a history steeped in the walls of Kulm’s Sunny Bar where old photos and trophies still hang. Kulm Hotel still retains its emblematic location in the heart of St. Moritz town, contributing its own collection of renowned restaurants, as well as an expansive spa with sprawling views of the lake. Down the road from the hotel is the Kulm Country Club, which originally opened in 1905 as a place for people to gather by the property’s natural ice rink, eventually becoming the official event base for the Winter Olympic Games. Following a CHF12 million refurbishment led by famed architect Lord Norman Foster, Kulm Country Club re-opened in 2017 with elements of the building’s original Art Nouveau past and traditional Swiss style informing the two-storey space: It includes a wood-paneled restaurant with a large sun terrace overlooking the ice rink, as well as a lounge and bar area on the ground floor featuring a selection of photographs, bobsleighs, and other memorabilia from the region.

The brand new 74-room Grace La Margna, located conveniently above the St. Moritz train station offers a tastefully modern alternative to the traditional grand hotels that have long characterized St. Moritz stays. Among the contemporary and minimalist design touches that can be seen across the hotel’s clean lines, muted hues, and mid-century modern tropes, the building’s Art Nouveau past has been delicately retained in the original decorative moldings, marble fireplaces, and heritage-protected bay windows located in its La Margna Wing. Its deliberate use of local wood, warm tones, and festive plaids emits a chalet-style warmth rather than stoic modernism. This is the case across the hotel’s many dining and living spaces, especially at N/5 bar, where master mixologist Mirco Giumelli takes guests on a cocktail journey with his unique creations of unlikely pairings. The hotel’s spa is a richly holistic experience, featuring several wellness showers, labeled emotional showers, where different combinations of light, mist, and water pressure create a healing experience, which guests can follow up with a 20-minute treatment on the Klaf’s sunlit meadow sonnenwiese lounger.

Located discretely atop a hill overlooking the lake of St. Moritz, The Carlton Hotel is an intimate stay with just 60 luxurious alpine-inspired rooms, making it the smallest of the five-star hotels in the area. You’re immediately immersed in a fairytale as you pull up to the hotel entrance to find fondu being served to guests in gondolas strategically placed at the edge of the hill overlooking the lake, and a sleigh sits on a bed of wood chips as you walk through the hotel’s front doors. The fairytale extends to the interior of the hotel, where guests are met with warm hospitality that feels professional, but relaxed—a sentiment that compliments the grand but intimate vibe here, which is especially felt at the living room-style Carlton Bar and Bel Etage. The hotel also features the hotel’s Grand Restaurant, the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio, and a spa.

The oldest and largest five-star hotel in St. Moritz, Grand Hotel Des Bains Kempinski is a fuss-free stay for travelers seeking a reliable luxury experience with comfortable rooms in a prime location for those who especially came to ski. The hotel is located in St. Moritz Bad, a 20-minute walk (or five-minute drive) from the ritzy hub of St. Moritz town, though it’s conveniently situated at the foot of the Signalbahn cable car, making it one of the few luxury properties with direct access to the slopes. Après ski, guests can descend to the hotel spa for an afternoon of recovery, which features Lifecube Cryotherapy, helping to reduce inflammation post-skiing. While the property is on the outskirts of town, the hotel offers various dining options on property, from the Michelin-starred Ca d’Oro, to a more casual Italian enoteca, Ristorante Da Adriano, and their buzzy lobby bar with live music.

Editor’s note: All hotels contain winter rental facilities on the premises, as well as shuttle services to/from the mountain.

Where to Eat and Play

Some of the most atmospheric meals take place on the slopes. Located directly at the top of the Survetta lift (and thus easily accessible for non-skiers), Trutz is a St. Moritz staple known for its friendly atmosphere and casual homestyle cooking, from simple pastas to popular Grisons hut dishes, like rostis. From the sundeck, you’ll have panoramic views of Lake Staz and the nearby Paradiso, another popular outpost for lunch on the slopes. At Paradiso, you have the option to sit at the upper music deck for food, drinks, and dancing under the tunes of a daily DJ, or book a reservation at the lower deck’s Mountain Club where sheepskins lay across blue checkered banquets, and the promise of black truffle fondue, caviar, and lobster lunches impart a more formal affair. For more low-key, yet equally as atmospheric on-piste lunches, there’s the locally loved Chasellas and Salastrains, also located in the Corviglia ski area.

If you’re seeking a relaxed meal in town or a smooth start to your day, the new Café Belmont offers a satisfying assortment of sandwiches and freshly baked cakes and brioche, as well as coffee and wine. There’s also the cozy and casual Pavarotti Wine Bar, where a lively, familial energy is matched only by the warmth of the homestyle Italian dishes served here. Come with a group of friends and stay a while. More local favorites include Dal Mulin, a casual Alpine-inspired restaurant located in the center of town, as well as the traditional Swiss Restaurant Engiadina famous for its traditional cheese fondues, raclettes, and rostis. Chesa Veglia, a former farmhouse built in 1658 plays host to Pizzeria Heuboden, an authentic pizzeria and one of the most renowned boltholes in St. Moritz; the upscale Swiss restaurant Patrizier Stuben; as well as the three-table Carigiet Fondue Stubli and the in-house bar, ideal for sipping while you await your table at either of the three restaurants. 

If you’re craving a break from the traditional food from the region, Nobu founder Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s La Coupole - Matasiyu, located in what was formerly Europe’s first indoor tennis hall, offers his signature Japanese-Peruvian fare to transport you with both its food and service. Equally as transportive is the new Peruvian restaurant, Amaru, newly opened this season and helmed by Peruvian chef Claudia Canessa, whose unexpected menu is characterized by the idea of shared street food dishes—all in a space whimsically designed in the spirit of St. Moritz by acclaimed British artist and designer, Luke Edward Hall. 

The Kulm Pizzeria is a local favorite that features a new state-of-the-art show kitchen, still offering classic Italian dishes in an upmarket chalet atmosphere. Around the corner at the Sir Norman Foster-designed Kulm Country Club, rising star of the British culinary scene and Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco is introducing a relaxed and elegant concept in his family-style menu using high-quality ingredients prepared over elements of fire, like embers, grill or charcoal. The inviting living room atmosphere here also makes it an ideal spot to grab a pre-dinner drink. Visit Badrutts’s legendary Renaissance Bar and cigar lounge, otherwise known as Mario’s Bar, for its timeless elegance, extensive assortment of whiskies, and selection of the world’s finest cigars. If you’ve made it this far, then your night will likely end at the pricey (but worth it) Dracula Club, as all the best nights in St. Moritz often do.

Art and Shopping

Luxury shoppers will happily get their fix from brands like Gucci, Prada, and Louis Vuitton, in addition to high-end sportswear labels like Moncler, Bogner, and Fusalp, whose ritzy shops populate St. Mortiz’s town center. Shoppers will likewise find a mix of well-known brands and cult designers at the Italian multi-brand shop, Modes (and MiniModes for their littles) whose St. Moritz outpost features a well-curated and exclusive assortment of seasonal items. Just last season, cult-favorite cashmere brand Extreme Cashmere opened its first-ever flagship store on Via Somplaz, with washing machines concealed playfully behind the shop’s sliding doors encouraging shoppers to drop their items off throughout the week to have cleaned responsibly. Nearby, St. Moritz heritage shop since 1935 Cashmere House Lamm sells an assortment of traditional knitwear using high-quality cashmere produced throughout Italy and Scotland. More festive knitwear and some covetable St. Moritz merch can be found at Ender Sport, St. Moritz’s leading ski shop since 1931, which also happens to have one of the best winter boot collections in the Engadin Valley.

Hauser & Wirth’s gallery opening in 2018 has drawn massive interest from art lovers traveling to the area, especially following the opening of Vito Schnabel’s gallery, which was unveiled in 2015 in famed art dealer and collector Bruno Bischofberger’s former space. While St. Moritz has long been a beacon of art and culture, recent openings and events have put it on the world stage again, emphasizing its cultural renaissance. One such event that seems to be a response to St. Moritz’s burgeoning contemporary art scene is Nomad Circle, the traveling art fair for contemporary art and collectible design, which returns to St. Moritz for its second year, showcasing first-time and returning exhibitors, as well as nine special projects conceived exclusively for this edition. Though no event encapsulates St. Moritz’s defining spirit quite like the International Concours of Elegance, or The I.C.E., a classic car show on ice that seamlessly reveals the harmony between St. Moritz’s timeless elegance and the magic of its frozen lake.