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You can do it. That’s what I tell myself when my alarm goes off between the hours of 1 a.m. and 3 a.m. for four consecutive days. On this particular morning, I’m in the middle of a field with a sea of people wearing helmets, shower caps, bikinis, and Roman tunics. Our bodies are covered in richly colored paints and powder. Next to us, huge trucks offer gifts of rum for our raised glasses that will remain filled until the sun rises. This is carnival in Trinidad.
Jam-packed with parties (called fetes), little sleep, and lots of energy, the events are rooted in a history that stretches back to the 1800s, when enslaved Africans created their own traditions of resistance and pride. That history has evolved into what we know as carnival today, spanning from late December through Ash Wednesday and culminating in a two-day parade on Monday and Tuesday where colorful costumes take center stage in a tradition called “playing mas.”
Because of the pandemic, it’s been three years since we’ve gathered to fete through the streets of the capital city of Port of Spain, the calm shores of Maracas Beach, and the leafy hillsides of Santa Cruz. But we made it back: finally, and joyously.
And though the celebrations have officially ended—and nearly all attendees will need to sleep for the next few days—there are many reasons to begin planning for next year as soon as possible. Here find your guide on how to visit the Trinidad Carnival, and how to make the most of your time at what many have called “the greatest show on earth.”
Where to Fete
There are an overwhelming number of parties to choose from during carnival, ranging from beachside cooler fetes where people can bring their own alcohol, to raucous boat and land parties that begin before the sun rises. No matter the kind of party, though, the soundtrack remains the same. Traditional carnival music, called calypso, was created by enslaved Africans as a means to communicate with each other on the plantations. Today, soca music—a fusion of calypso, chutney, and soul informed by African and East Indian sounds—is the most popular form of music. It’s what I like to call the fuel of carnival (in addition to plenty of rum, of course). Once you hear it at a fete, it’s impossible to stay still, no matter how many times the same song is played.
And speaking of movement, perhaps no event is a greater testament to that electric energy than Caesar’s Army’s A.M. Bush, a fieldside fete that guarantees nonstop dancing, bodies splashed in paint and powder, live performances from some of the best soca artists, and even waterslides. The company, led by Jules Sobion, hosts a number of events and festivals several weeks before carnival as well.
On Friday night, Phuket kicks off the weekend with 11 bars on site and eight food stations that offer everything from fish and chips to a full salad bar. The quintessential Saturday fete, meanwhile, is popular Trinidadian DJ Private Ryan’s Soca Brainwash. Located on a massive field in Port of Spain, the all-inclusive affair is like a wonderland for adults, with photo booths and props, premium bars, over 20 food stations, and DJs from around the Caribbean.
The Sunday before carnival comes to a close offers a number of breakfast fetes to choose from. My favorite is the all-inclusive Sunny Side Up, which welcomed soca artists like Skinny Fabulous and Nailah Blackman onstage to sing their massive hit, “Come Home” as attendees jumped and waved their flags.
The unbreakable tradition of J’ouvert, however, is the most sacred celebration of all during carnival. While French plantation owners celebrated pre-Lent with masquerade balls, enslaved Africans were banned from joining and so created their own tradition–mocking those same plantation owners by proudly covering their bodies in black oil and carrying torched flames as a remembrance of the burning of sugar cane which marked slave revolts. Today, it’s an opportunity for Black people to remember our history, resilience, and ability to turn tragedy into fuel to live loudly and defiantly.
Afterwards, I joined the always lively Dirty Dozen band at 2 a.m. in the morning and the party had already begun. People line up for breakfast before we hit the streets for nearly six hours, covering our bodies in further paint, mud, and powder. We end the day right back where we started, and are met with water hoses to cool our bodies and even more soca music and rum.
Then, there’s the ultimate finale of Monday and Tuesday with a parade of groups (called bands) that gather in the streets of Port of Spain. Monday’s parade doesn’t require formal costume wear, but many women still enlist Trinidadian designers to dress them. My designer of choice this year was Tropix Swim, created by Keisha Als, a veteran carnival costume designer who focuses on vibrant colors and homages to the Caribbean with each of her pieces.
My band of choice this year was also the largest: Tribe. Created by Dean Ackin in 2005, this year’s theme, A New Dawn, featured a number of costume groups inspired by mythology and folklore from around the world, including Loki—which refers to the Norse god of mischief. Sparkling hues of purple, fuschia, and gold detailed a series of monokinis and hi-cut bikinis created by Trinidadian designers. When we made our way through the streets, costumes aglow, I couldn’t help but feel immense gratitude that the three-year wait had brought us all to this moment.
What to Remember
Airline prices to Trinidad this year were astronomical, and as the event continues to grow, this likely won’t change. If you’re thinking of waiting it out until the last minute to reserve a flight, don’t. The same goes for booking a hotel.
Transportation on the ground is also key, particularly if you plan to drink or are unfamiliar with getting around. Book a reliable driver early. I highly recommend Mr. Nick of Sensational Tours, who can also offer tours around the island.
Accessories, particularly for women, are equally important. For a seamless costume look, Carnivalista sells a number of tights online that are strong enough to last through the hours of dancing during carnival. For J’ouvert, be sure to pack a shower cap and bandana to protect your hair from the unavoidable splashes of paint and powder that fly through the sky.
Decide on your band early. Groups like Tribe sell out of costumes early and will typically announce their launch in August, so check back on their Instagram page. For a calendar of fete events and ticket announcements, follow each promoter’s social media handle.
Hydrate. As the saying goes, “carnival is pace.” Reach for water whenever possible, and pack your vitamins.
Finally, respect the culture. Carnival in Trinidad has become a world of its own, often shadowed by celebrity appearances and images curated for social media. But this tradition that spans hundreds of years is deeply rooted in so much more, and should be treated accordingly.
Where to Stay
You’ll be very disappointed by availability and prices if you wait until the final hour to book a flight or accommodations. For a central location just steps away from the road where the bacchanalia begins, check into the 119–room Courtyard Port of Spain. Despite the crowds coming in at all hours during carnival, the team remains warm and helpful. Rooms are spacious with a modern design including a walk-in rain shower to soak in after a day of nonstop partying, while an inclusive breakfast helps fuel the days filled with fetes. The shaded pool, meanwhile, is a welcome retreat for a quick dip or nap.
If you’re traveling with a larger group, Laura Homes TTD is a real estate agency that offers a number of comfortable, safe accommodations to consider at reasonable prices in convenient locations.
