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Before St. Moritz was one of the grandest ski resorts in the Swiss Alps, it was just a small town in the Engadine Valley more revered for its summertime activities than anything else. Its seasonal transition came by way of the Kulm Hotel, the first in St. Moritz, and its pioneering hotelier Johannes Badrutt. Singing St. Moritz's wintertime praises to a group of visiting Englishmen, Badrutt promised to recoup their travel expenses if they returned in December to an unpleasant stay. They did, and stayed until Easter, and St. Moritz as a place to avoid once the snow started falling became a thing of the past.
The Alpine town’s future as the ultimate in luxury and winter tourism was further cemented in 1928 when it played host to the first official Winter Olympics. (The games wouldn’t be held between 1936 to 1948, as World War II raged. Its first occurrence in 12 years would again take place in St. Moritz, as it was neutral territory.) Ladies dressed in silks and sequins, covered in furs, and men in three-piece suits, strolled along the Kulm Pavilion and Country Club (an extension of the Kulm Hotel built in 1905), the unofficial headquarters of both the 1928 and 1948 Olympic games.
In early 2017 starchitect, and part-time St. Moritz resident, Lord Norman Foster faithfully restored the Kulm's spruce wood interiors, envisioning a space that would once again greet with high-arched windows, framing panoramic mountain views and allowing sunlight to stream in from a series of open-air skating pavilions. Inside, a restaurant outfitted in vintage sporting paraphernalia and remnants of the building’s heyday will house a rotating pop-up shop of sorts, each month hosting a new all-tar chef from around the world. First up this month is two Michelin starred chef Nenad Mlinarevic of Park Hotel Vitznau's focus restaurant in the Lake Lucerne district of Switzerland.
With such a historic piece of architecture back onto the St. Moritz scene, now’s the perfect time to jet off for a getaway. And though there’s no shortage of activates—no matter the season you visit—there are a few stops that are not to be missed. Here are the highlights.
Where to Eat:
Kulm Country Club’s chef residencies are sure to attract a culinary-minded crowd. After chef Mlinarevic’s initial February stay, the month of March belongs to Mauro Colagreco. His restaurant, Mirazur, in the French Riviera, ranks eighth on the World‘s 50 Best Restaurants list. Swiss master chef Reto Mathis operates the beloved, and famed, restaurant La Marmite up at the mountain station of Corviglia ski resort. Expect high-end alpine comfort food, like a flaky Alsatian-style pizza sprinkled with fist-size truffle shavings or what is known as “Corviglia Snow,” a bed of mashed potatoes topped with a heap of caviar. In nearby Pontresina, a slightly more relaxed and approachable Alpine town in the Engadine Valley, Kronenstübli is a sophisticated little spot tucked into the lower level of Grand Hotel Kronenhof. The antique floors of the pine-lined restaurant ache with each step, a reminder of its designation as a registered historical landmark. Restaurant manager Adriana Novotná was named Sommelier of the Year by GaultMillau, virtually ensuring a good pairing.
Where to Play:
St. Moritz truly is a winter wonderland, with a roster of snow sports and shopping to prove it. Lace up the boots, grab the boards, and get to know Corviglia, it’s the main ski area residing above town. Lakes frozen over in the negative temps provide a perfect base for flat-land adventures. One such is skijoring, a sport where a rider is wearing skis and being pulled behind a horse. For newbies, a driver rides the horse, steers, and pulls you, but the pros do all of the above by themselves at speeds upwards of 40 mph. At the Olympia Bob Run—its icy track has seen two Olympic bob sled games—guest riders can tuck in between a pilot and brakeman, moving 80+ mph with 4g force, taking 80-some seconds to complete a one-mile course. And if your thrills come from the pocket, Via Serlas is the shopping drag not to be missed: Versace, Cartier, Gucci, oh my.
Where to Stay:
The Kulm Hotel is the grand dame of St. Moritz stays. But don’t let its place in history lead you to believe that it's had its place in the sun. Its magnificent interiors still keep pace with modern luxury. In the lobby, gilded and dripping with Old World elegance, guests mingle about, sipping wine by the fire. Its spa, still gleaming from a recent $10 million renovation, features a Finnish sauna, steam bath, a full gym, a saltwater grotto, heated lap pool, and a fan favorite, an outdoor heated pool with various nooks and bubble beds that overlook frozen Lake St. Moritz. Make sure to pack extra though, as this storied resort, like much of St. Moritz, adheres to a stylish dress code. “Smart elegant” is their phrase, but expect to find dinner guests dressed to the nines.
For a less ornate option, try the Nira Alpina, a nearby ski in/ski out boutique hotel that’s more rustic Alpine chic than glitz and gold. The 70-room timber-and-glass build sits atop the village of Silvaplana and features a slew of Swiss-style design details: antlers, cowhides, raw woods, sheepskin throws, and worn leather.