A Guide to Vacationing on Christmas Island

...and why it should really be called Crab Island.

Dolly Beach, Christmas Island, Australia
Photo: Daniela Dirscherl/WaterFrame RM/Getty Images

There are a few immediate questions that come to mind when one learns about Christmas Island for the first time. For starters, where is it? Technically, it's a territory of Australia, but you'd never know from its location. Stuck way out in the middle of the Indian Ocean, The tiny island sits roughly 250 miles south of Central Java, and a whopping 1,650 miles from Perth, the nearest Australian city.

The island is ringed by 60-foot cliffs, broken intermittently by small beaches, coves, and enticing limestone grottos. Thalassophobes (people who are afraid of deep water) may want to avoid swimming out too far, because just a few hundred feet from the shore, the floor of the Indian Ocean drops three miles clean to the bottom. This geological quality is what makes it an especially good destination for swimming with whale sharks, but it is most famous for the incredible crab migration that takes place back on land. Although it may take a little more effort to get to, Christmas Island has a lot of rewards in store for the determined traveler.

A Bit of History

Christmas Island got its festive name from Captain William Mynors, an English seafarer who stumbled upon this unknown blip of land on Christmas Day in 1643. Culturally, much of the island's Chinese and Malay populations are descended from indentured servants who were brought there by the British in the 19th and 20th centuries to work the local phosphate mines. Brutal conditions led to many deaths, a history which is remembered at the Tai Jin House Museum.

Jungle Adventures

Brown Booby, Christmas Island, Australia
Daniela Dirscherl/WaterFrame RM/Getty Images

With its warm temperatures and high rainfall, Christmas Island is exceptionally conducive to fostering all sorts of wildlife. Nearly two-thirds of the island is designated as national park land, featuring well-marked trails that are highly popular with bird-watchers.

No matter where you end up in the jungle, you won't be short on sightseeing spots. Hugh's Dale waterfall is a stunner, and can only be reached by hiking through the rainforest. Like something out of J. R. R. Tolkien's Middle-earth, along the way you'll pass Tahitian chestnut trees with hulking buttress roots. You'll have to watch where you step, as the floor is littered with small crabs (this is their home, after all).

Once you arrive at the falls, go ahead and take a shower under the crashing water — not only is it clean enough to drink, it's held sacred by local Buddhists, who believe it's the center of the island's "water universe."

A Crab Phenomenon

Red Crabs, Christmas Island, Australia
Ingo Arndt/Nature Picture Library/Getty Images

Not only does Christmas Island boast the highest diversity — and density — of land crabs of any island in the world, it's also home to a staggering natural phenomenon. Each October, right after the start of the wet season, 120 million red crabs begin their sideways-tiptoeing journey from the depths of the forest out to sea.

As a result, huge tracts of the island appear to come alive with bright red, roving, shell-covered bodies. The sheer volume of crabs makes this a must-see event (certain roads are even shut down to allow safe passage for the crabs), and many refer to it as one of the world's natural wonders.

A Swim With Whale Sharks

Whale shark, Christmas Island, Australia
Mathieu Meur/Stocktrek Images/Getty Images

Since the island is so small and has remained in its natural state for so long, all kinds of colorful fish can be found swimming around the island's narrow tropical reef. On a typical dive with Diving Christmas, you might find yourself swimming with the world's largest fish, the whale shark, which visits Christmas Island from November to March.

You'll likely also encounter all sorts of marine life: dolphins, manta rays, sea turtles, and over 88 species of coral. Over 64 diving sites can be explored near the island.

Where to Stay on Christmas Island

A woman stands on a balcony of the hotel looking out at the water of Christmas Island

The Swell Lodge

With only 2,000 permanent residents on the island, facilities are somewhat limited. A small array of shops and restaurants are offered, but then again, people come more for the nature than the shopping. In the Settlement, the most populated area of the island, you'll have a few hotels and lodges to choose from, such as The Sunset, which is a basic lodge with comfortable enough amenities. If you travel further off the beaten path, you may want to wind up at the swanky eco-friendly Swell Lodge on the other side of the island. You could also opt for a vacation rental like this Balinese-style cottage. Wherever you stay, you will need a few nights booked, since flights arriving and leaving on Christmas Island only run a few times a week.

Getting to and Around Christmas Island

Christmas Island's airport code is XCH and you can get there via Perth, where Virgin Australia runs flights twice a week. The most important thing is to secure a rental car, since that's the main means of transportation around the island. Four-wheel drive vehicles can be had for around $65 per day and you can compare options on the official tourism website.

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