They say that if you stand still for long enough in Dominica, something will grow on you. It’s easy to believe. In 2017, category five hurricane Maria devastated the island. Now, most visitors would never know. Volcanic and fertile, nature dominates Dominica’s interior, where a rugged cluster of volcanic peaks are covered in a thick blanket of rainforest, much of it undisturbed by people, and where there are more rivers and waterfalls than you can possibly count.
In these parts, Dominica is known as the “nature island”. And for good reason. Before Christopher Columbus renamed it, this island was called “Waitukubuli” by the indigenous Kalinago, meaning “tall is her body”, and they revered the island’s nature spirits. Whether first impressions are on arrival by cruise ship, ferry or plane, most travellers are struck by Dominica’s natural beauty. This island looks and feels like a place that still retains those ancient spirits, and where there are plenty of secrets waiting to be discovered.
You should come to enjoy the outdoors, for the hiking and the scuba diving, but also to immerse yourself in a Creole culture that blends the history and traditions of South America, West Africa and Europe. Dominica has a thriving music and arts scene, and its annual festivals are colourful and lively.
This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. More information here.
What to do
There are hiking trails all over the island. Many are located within Dominica’s three national parks and lead to waterfalls, mountain tops and crater lakes. The challenging Boiling Lake Trail and the long-distance 200km Waitukubuli National Trail are regionally unique. The variety of trails means you can always find something to suit your interest and ability. Bird enthusiasts will enjoy looking for Dominica’s endemic parrots on the Syndicate Nature Trail, followed by a sedate boat ride exploring the mangroves of the Indian River, a film location for Pirates of the Caribbean. Other popular and accessible natural attractions include the magnificent Trafalgar Falls and the stunning Emerald Pool.
Advertisement
On the east coast you’ll find the semi-autonomous Kalinago Territory, where descendants of Dominica’s indigenous Amerindian people still live and practise traditional crafts such as basket weaving, canoe building and cassava bread making. Don’t miss Kalinago Barana Auté, a model village that showcases Kalinago heritage.
The Soufriere Scotts Head Marine Reserve is one of the best places to enjoy scuba diving and snorkelling. Diving on wall and pinnacle formations along healthy and animated coral reefs is the norm here. The most popular snorkelling site is Champagne Reef, where underwater volcanic vents create curtains of bubbles.
• Best things to do in Dominica
Where to stay
Accommodation options are widespread, varied and suit all tastes and budgets. When planning your stay, opt for at least two locations to cut down driving time to and from the places you wish to explore. Consider the northeast and the southwest.
Eco cottages and guest houses are simple and intimate, often with a distinctly local or rustic feel. The best ones fit seamlessly into their natural surroundings and are often embraced by forest and tropical gardens, or set alongside rivers. Self-catering villas, cabins and lodges are also plentiful. The pretty coastal village of Calibishie in the northeast has a number of great options. Many have wonderful ocean views, spacious rooms, terraces and infinity pools.
Advertisement
Traditional hotels and luxury resorts are increasing in number and are usually located on the leeward west coast, where they can guarantee romantic sunsets. These accommodation options are comparable to those on most Caribbean islands and offer the usual fare of plunge pools, restaurants and tourism services.
Food and drink
Dominica’s traditional cuisine has its roots in Africa, South America and Europe. During colonial times these influences merged into what is now referred to as Creole. Dominica’s Creole dishes tend to be rich in seasonings, vegetables and/or ground provisions (root crops such as yam, taro, dasheen and tannia). Usually there is a meat staple such as fish, pork, chicken, beef or goat.
“Callaloo” is Dominica’s national dish. A soup made from either young dasheen or spinach leaves, it’s often served with dumplings and land crab. “Braf” (one-pot, broth or stew) also has its roots in colonial times, when the enslaved would cook provisions, vegetables, seasonings and any scraps of meat or fish they could get in a single pot over an open fire. Other traditional Creole dishes include “crabback” (seasoned land-crab meat that is stuffed back into its shell and baked) and “sancoche” (a coconut dish, usually made with codfish).
Traditional cuisine is plentiful in the capital city of Roseau, as well as at local eateries all around the island. Dominicans really love their food. Restaurants along the west, north and northeast coasts offer a range of local and international dishes, with seafood always available. Try the lobster, lionfish, conch and octopus, and don’t forget to wash it all down with a rum punch or two.
Don’t miss
Local and expat artists have combined to create the Waitukubuli Artist Association and their collective portfolio of work is excellent. Exhibitions are often held at the Old Mill Cultural Centre in Canefield or within the roofless ruins of the Anglican Church in Roseau. The group has also painted colourful murals in the capital and around the island.
Advertisement
Fans of the film director Luc Besson’s The Big Blue will be happy to hear that freediving is a growing sport in Dominica. The island’s deep and protected waters are ideal. An international competition is held in Soufriere Bay annually and classes and tuition are available year-round.
Jacko Steps is a hiking trail named after one of Dominica’s most notorious and celebrated Maroon chiefs (Maroons were former enslaved people who escaped and lived in Dominica’s forests). Beyond the site of his former camp is a series of stone steps that were hand-carved into a steep cliff by members of his group as a means to access and escape to the island’s longest river, the Layou. The steps form part of this important heritage trail, usually walked sometime in August as a homage to the Maroons during the island’s annual emancipation celebrations.
Know before you go
First of all, don’t confuse Dominica with the Dominican Republic. Located between the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe, Dominica does not yet have an international airport and air access from the UK is usually via Barbados or Antigua.
June through until November is officially the Atlantic hurricane season, although Dominica is most vulnerable to storms from July to September. Spring is the best time to visit, especially if hiking is on your itinerary, because this is when the weather is usually dry and temperatures are still comfortable.
English is the official language, and the local currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, which is pegged to its US counterpart.
Take me there
Advertisement
Inspired to visit Dominica but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Hotels.com and Expedia.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.