Everything you need to know about visiting French Polynesia

It might be the intense blue of a bewitchingly tranquil lagoon, or a night sky filled with South Pacific stars. Maybe a silhouette of volcanic peaks dramatically lit by a tangerine sunset, or a lunch of poisson cru (raw fish marinated in coconut milk) under the palms to a backing track of lilting Polynesian tunes. Sooner or later, every visitor to these tropical islands has to concede that yes, this really is paradise.

If there’s a catch, it’s that Tahiti, the gateway to this balmy constellation of 118 islands as large as Europe, is an awful long way away (at least 22 hours flying time), and not cheap (in high season top hotels come in at over £1,000 a night).

But it delivers, particularly if you like the sound of island-hopping, snorkelling and diving, discovering Polynesian culture and romancing on the deck of an overwater bungalow with a warm breeze, glistening turquoise sea and two ice-cold mai tai cocktails. And there’s a bonus – being a French Overseas Territory, French Polynesia has a high standard of cuisine, a decent transport infrastructure and familiar sights such as baguettes, gendarmes and yellow post boxes – all fused with an exotic world of mangos, tattoos and flamboyant fish.

When to go?

May to September is best, avoiding the rainy season, but prices are high in July and August when the French visit in droves and the islanders stage their annual Heiva festivals. Flights at peak times get booked long in advance. August to October is good for whale watching, while divers need to pick the right months to see manta rays (September-October) and hammerhead sharks (January-February) in the Tuamotus.

Which island?

Tahiti is the entry point, with flights usually landing early enough to let you push straight on to the next island. On the return it is common to overnight near the capital, Papeete, before flying home; the InterContinental Tahiti Resort (tahiti.intercontinental.com) is close to the airport. Try to visit three islands to get a decent taste – for most this means the Society Islands, as Captain Cook christened the principal archipelago in 1769; divers, romantics and the adventurous should venture farther afield.

Tahiti

Tahiti is something of a traffic junction, but if you are on a stopover, or have a spare half-day, it is worth a tour. It is actually two islands joined by an isthmus, with mighty jungle-clad mountains, black-sand beaches and the panoramic Plateau de Taravao. Paul Gauguin lived here from 1891-93, but all his great Tahitian works are now scattered around the world and the island’s Gauguin Museum is closed for renovation.

Instead, visit the home of writer James Norman Hall (jamesnormanhallhome.pf) and the market in Papeete, which is well stocked with gifts to take home. High-spenders should consider staying on Tetiaroa, 30 miles to the north, which was once Marlon Brando’s private atoll and is now home to the super-exclusive resort The Brando (thebrando.com).

Moorea

Tahiti’s close neighbour is best reached on the fast ferry Terevau, a scenic ride that takes 35 minutes. This is one island where you might want to hire a car and go exploring; alternatively, a 4x4 jeep safari will take you inland to visit viewpoints, farms and the Manutea fruit juice factory. Moorea is a good island to see humpback whales and dolphins and the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort (moorea.hilton.com) a great base.

Bora Bora

Synonymous with the dream South Pacific holiday, Bora Bora is a 50-minute flight west of Tahiti, a craggy volcanic crater ringed with a reef-fringed emerald lagoon. It is honeymoon central, with five-star resorts lining up along its eastern islets to catch the celebrated sunset views of Mount Otemanu. The Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora (fourseasons.com/borabora) has 100 overwater bungalows and is a good choice for families. There’s not much to see on the main island, so have no guilt about settling in for some full-blown lotus eating.

Ra’iatea and Taha’a

Twenty-five miles south-east of Bora Bora, this duo of islands offers a more relaxed alternative to its famous neighbour. There are charming places to stay, such as the Relais & Chateaux Le Taha’a Private Island (letahaa.com) and boutique Vahine Island Private Resort (vahine-island.com). The day excursions here are particularly good, featuring visits to a vanilla plantation and pearl farm followed by a beach lunch and sensational snorkelling.

Tuamotus

These 77 coral atolls, an hour’s flight north-east of Tahiti, are of principal interest to divers and lovers of castaway-style downtime. Rangiroa, the capital, is the world’s second-largest atoll, and its Tiputa Pass offers the chance to drift beside a blizzard of marine life including sharks and manta rays. Book through a specialist such as Original Diving (originaldiving.com).

Marquesas

Almost 900 miles north-east of Tahiti, the 15 mountainous islands of the Marquesas are most certainly a trip-of-a-lifetime destination. They lie 10 degrees south of the equator, in another time zone, and are the island group farthest away in the world from any continental land mass.

As such, they have attracted an impressive line of adventurers, including Herman Melville, Jack London, Thor Heyerdahl and Paul Gauguin, who spent his final years here. His grave is on the island of Hiva Oa, reached from Tahiti on a flight taking just over three hours; romantics will prefer to sail here on Aranui 3, a “freighter to paradise”.

How to get there?

Flights

Most visitors fly to Los Angeles with British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) or Air New Zealand (0800 028 4149; airnewzealand.co.uk), then continue to Papeete with the excellent Air Tahiti Nui (0844 482 1675; airtahitinui.co.uk). Air Tahiti Nui and Air France (020 7660 0337; airfrance.co.uk) also fly this route from Paris. You’ll need to pass through US Immigration and have an ESTA (esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/). Air Tahiti Nui also has connections from Tokyo. 

Packages

Packages make sense here – you’ll get a better rate at hotels, and with so much island-hopping it helps to have some backup if problems arise. Seats on inter-island flights go fast, and a good tour operator will arrange the smoothest connections and transfers – most like to leave the best hotels until last, for that final splurge. French Polynesia specialists include All Ways TailorMade (01628 526585; awtm.co.uk), Austravel (0800 988 4834; austravel.com), Transpacific Holidays (01342 840555; transpacificholidays.co.uk) and Turquoise Holidays (01494 678400; turquoiseholidays.co.uk).

Cruises

Paul Gauguin Cruises (pgcruises.com) offers voyages aboard the 332-passenger Paul Gauguin, sailing mainly around the Society Islands for seven nights. The Aranui 5 (aranui.com) makes a 14-day round-trip from Tahiti to the Marquesas via the Tuamotus. Sunsail (sunsail.co.uk) and Dream Yacht Charter (dreamyachtcharter.com) can organise yachting holidays.

Independently

Independent travel is possible – there’s a good supply of small-scale accommodation and local ferries link various islands, but this is far from a budget destination. Avoid high season and take advantage of the passes available for inter-island flights and diving.

On the beach or over the water?

You should certainly try both, although the latter is considerably more expensive. Some complexes of overwater bungalows are surprisingly gulag-like; others have charming traditional interiors. If you’re the venturing-forth type, note that many resorts are isolated and it can be costly to leave if you don’t tie in with complimentary shuttles, which means dining outside the walls is not always an option.

Any sightseeing?

There is little in the way of “sights” beyond visits to scenic viewpoints, marae (traditional sacred sites, which often have mosquitoes) and vanilla, pearl and pineapple farms. Many hotels put on traditional dance shows, but your lasting memories will invariably come from experiences in, on or under the water – so yes, jump on a paddleboard, sign up for that introductory dive and organise your desert island picnic and sunset cruise.

What to read

Recommended reading includes W Somerset Maugham’s The Moon and Sixpence (Vintage Classics, £8.99), The Bounty: the True Story of the Mutiny on the Bounty by Caroline Alexander (Harper Perennial, £14.99) and All Good Things, from Paris to Tahiti by Sarah Turnbull (Gotham, £11.22).

What to take

Take euros or US dollars in cash to convert into the local currency, the CPF franc (also written as XPF). It is nigh impossible to change sterling, and there’s nowhere at Papeete airport to change back residual notes, so get spending.

Be sure to pack plenty of insect repellent, reef-friendly sunblock, reef shoes and an underwater camera.

How much?

On a budget

Austravel (0800 988 4834; austravel.com) offers a seven-night Tahiti Island Hopping Essentials package from £839 per person staying at the Manava Suite Resort in Tahiti and the Sofitel Moorea (flights not included). Price based on two sharing.

In style

Turquoise Holidays (01494 678400; turquoiseholidays.co.uk) offers a 10-night island-hopping holiday staying from £4,525 per person based on two sharing including three nights at Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa, three nights at Le Taha'a Island Resort & Spa, and four nights at St Regis Bora Bora Resort, including breakfast, all transfers and international flights. Price based on travel in low season (November to March). 

Expert tips

Polynesian spa treatments are among the best in the world, so don’t hold back. Many use monoi oil, made from coconut oil and the local tiaré flower, which is sold widely. This will solidify when brought back to the chillier UK, but put the bottle in warm water and it will soon evoke pleasant memories.

Mainly cultivated in the Tuamotus, black pearls are a popular souvenir and sold in numerous jewellery shops. Purchases will be more memorable if made direct from a pearl farm such as Champon (champonperles.com) on Taha’a, where you can learn about their production, discuss the myriad choices available and receive a certificate of authenticity.

Dried vanilla beans are another favourite to bring back. Their flavour is more delicate than the common Madagascan variety – use it in desserts and store in an airtight container.  

More information: tahititourisme.uk