A practical guide to hiking the Himalayas

When should I go?

The peak hiking seasons in Nepal and Bhutan are February to March and October to November, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. In the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, March to April and September to October offer the best weather without excessive heat. In most areas, views vanish during the rainy monsoon season (June to September). Trekking in deep winter (December to February) can be a bitterly cold experience, best left to accustomed hikers.

What clothes should I bring?

Temperatures drop quickly as you gain altitude, but you’ll work up a sweat while hiking, so bring layers that you can take off and put on again, as needed. Thermal underwear, lightweight trousers, fleece tops and a down jacket for cold nights are core pieces of kit. 

What should I wear on my feet?

Some people trek in walking or trail-running shoes, but hiking boots will give your ankles more support. Use quick-drying socks and dry out your boots if they get wet to reduce the chance of blisters. Break in any new footwear before you hit the trails, too, and use hiking poles to reduce the impact on your knees. 

Do I have to carry all my own gear? 

Many trekkers do, but it’s easy to hire porters or yaks and packhorses at trailheads to carry your bags. Porter-guides (who guide trekkers and also help carry bags) charge from US$20 (£15) per day, and usually speak some English. On an organised trek, you may be able to hike with just your camera and water bottle or a light day pack. 
Do I need a sleeping bag? Himalayan teahouses provide thin mattresses and blankets, but rooms are rarely heated, and a quality sleeping bag will help ensure a cosy night’s sleep. A ‘four season’ rating is best for high-altitude routes.

 Should I buy bottled water on the trails?

The Himalayas are strewn with empty plastic bottles, left behind by irresponsible trekkers. Instead, bring a water bottle and purification tablets, or a portable water filter, to purify water as you go from the rivers that snake between high passes. Is altitude sickness a problem? And if so, how can I counteract the effects? Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a risk on any route that climbs above 2,500m. To combat it, limit your rate of ascent, taking regular rest days to acclimatise. Diamox (Acetazolamide) tablets can also reduce mild symptoms such as headaches, but if you experience severe symptoms, including nausea, dizziness or confusion, descend immediately — AMS can be fatal. 

Will I need to get a trekking permit to hike in the Himalayas?

To visit Bhutan, you’ll need to arrange an organised tour through a licensed travel company; the overall price will include visa fees, obligatory daily tourist fees, and most of your costs, including for treks. In Nepal, you’ll need to arrange a guide through a local trekking agency and pay for a Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal card (taan.org.np). There are fees to enter conservation areas, including Sagarmatha National Park on the Everest Base Camp trail, and permits are needed to trek through border regions such as Mustang and Dolpo.