A guide to Bucharest, Romania's underrated capital

A confluence of multicultural neighbourhoods, belle époque avenues and functional high-rises, Bucharest wears its past on its sleeve. While the Ceauşescu regime sought to erase all traces of the city’s history in the early 1980s, today, the Romanian capital overflows with character — its gritty exterior concealing a wealth of cosy bars, galleries and bookshops. 

Begin with a walk along Bulevardul Primăverii in the north of the city. Among the many grand houses occupying this leafy, secluded street, look out for the decadent Casa Ceaușescu — the one-time family residence of Romania’s communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, who ruled from 1965 to 1989. Its gilded interiors can be explored on a guided tour. A five-minute stroll away is the Museum of Recent Art, a multi-floor gallery dedicated to championing contemporary Romanian artists. 

A trip on the metro south from Aviatorilor station to Piata Romana leads to Patiseria Amzei, a tiny hole-in-the-wall bakery recognisable only by the long queue of locals waiting patiently for their daily pastry fix. The standout is merdenele cu branza (feta-filled pastries) — grab a couple fresh from the oven and head over to Casa Mita Biciclista as they cool down. One of a handful of bourgeoise residences that survived the architectural erasure of the Ceauşescu regime, this sumptuous art nouveau townhouse plays host to photography exhibitions, live jazz performances and exclusive parties evoking the glamour of early 20th-century Bucharest.

Wander down Calea Victoriei towards Biserica Kretzulescu — perhaps the most captivating of Bucharest’s Eastern Orthodox churches — before joining university students sipping espressos at neighbouring Artichoke Social House. Here, you may spot Bucharest’s resident theremin player — a maestro of the motion-operated synthesiser. 

An entire afternoon can be spent browsing the tome-laden balconies of Cărturești Carusel — a grand and luminous bookshop in the city’s neo-baroque Old Town. From here, it’s a short tram ride to Obor Market, where, come spring, stalls overflow with cherries and leafy greens. Try the mici (skinless spiced sausages, served with mustard) straight from the grill at Terasa Obor. Alternatively, stop for lunch at nearby fine-dining establishment Soro Lume, where the market’s offerings fuel an ever-changing menu of artfully crafted seasonal dishes. If they have it, try the charcoal-roasted duck hearts with candied parsnips. 

Next stop is the evocatively named Sector 4, where communist-era tower blocks fall away to reveal Văcărești Nature Park, a vast bowl of rewilded industrial land on the edge of the city and a sanctuary for native wildlife. Spend some time getting lost among the reeds before taking the metro to Universitate and NoRoom Taproom, where Maktoob Brewing founder Adina Ioana Oniciuc serves some of the best craft beers in the city. 

Cismigiu Gardens is an atmospheric spot when the light begins to fade, with art deco lamps flickering into life and rooks coming home to roost. If you're here in May or October, head over the river to the neighbourhood of Cotroceni for the biannual Cotroceni Bazaar, which sees residents open their courtyards to the public, transforming this tranquil enclave into a buzzy hub of live music, shopping and festivities.  

The following day, cleanse yourself of any night-time excesses with a trip to Therme Bucharest, an innovative wellbeing centre that’s home to a plethora of saunas — including one that screens David Attenborough documentaries.