Nicaragua, a.k.a. the “land of lakes and volcanoes,” is one of the world's fastest-growing tourist destinations—it drew about 1.5 million visitors in 2016. But you wouldn’t know it from visiting its Emerald Coast, a stretch of shoreline between Tola and El Astillero that feels decadently quiet and shockingly untouched, save for the smattering of boutique hotels along the water.
The area attracts a motley crew of surfers and spa-goers in search of an off-the-beaten-path piece of paradise that also offers some of the world’s best surf breaks and beaches that would make a Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue location scout cry. This remote destination isn’t your spot if you’re looking to party all night, but it’s perfect for anyone looking to chill on an ultra-mellow beach for a week or shred on some of Central America’s best waves.
The Emerald Coast International Airport (ECI) just opened in November of 2015. It accepts small, 25-minute charter flights daily from Liberia, Costa Rica, where United flies direct from NYC and other major cities. If ECI isn’t convenient for you (or feels a little pricey), Augusto C. Sandino International Airport (MGA), in the nation’s capital of Managua, is about two hours away by car.
If you want to go all out, splurge at Mukul, an Auberge Resort. The 1,670-acre property attracts a luxury crowd but manages not to feel stuffy. It’s known for its surfing and David McLay Kidd golf course, and also offers 12 kilometers of nature trails and a top-of-the-line spa situation, if you’re in the mood for massage-y stuff. (The spa offers six private self-contained units, all with different themes and their own private pools. Casual!) The 38 guest accommodations range from treehouse-style bohios to beach villas, all with ocean views and private plunge pools. If you’re feeling thirsty, ask for a rum tasting: The Pellas family, which owns Mukul, also owns the Flor de Caña rum distillery, which produces naturally aged rums made with renewable energy.
About 20 to 30 minutes down the road is Rancho Santana, a sprawling 2,700-acre luxury resort and a longtime Nica mainstay. With an inn, oceanfront villas, four restaurants, five secret-hideaway-feeling beaches, and a slightly more rustic vibe than the hyper-luxe Mukul, Rancho Santana offers both charm and grit with tons of on-site activities (sandboarding and a sunset horseback ride are musts). Surf lessons and expeditions are easily arranged, and the food and drinks here were the best I had in Nicaragua (try the ceviche and fish tacos washed down with the resort’s signature jalapeño-infused tequila cocktail).
And if you seek a mellower, more bohemian vibe, head south about an hour down the coast. In Playa Maderas, on the outskirts of San Juan del Sur, you’ll find Maderas Village, a unique hilltop property that draws creative, wandering-surfer types. MV has a stylish sleepaway-camp vibe, so prep accordingly: Most rooms, while comfortable and well-designed, don’t have hot water or A/C (though you might get a hammock overlooking the ocean to compensate). Dinners are family-style, which is amazing if you’re into chatting with good-looking and gracious strangers. There’s an open-air yoga studio ($10 per class) and a recording studio for visiting musicians (maybe this is the year you get your SoundCloud page off the ground!). For free spirits seeking Instagram fodder, Maderas Village is the ultimate stopover.
Other than surfing lessons, which are readily available in various locations throughout the area, and the usual eat-drink-relax-repeat, the Emerald Coast offers a smorgasbord of exciting (and occasionally terrifying) outdoor activities. A worthwhile day trip is the island of Ometepe, made up of twin volcanoes called Concepción and Maderas jutting out of Lake Nicaragua. Head here for epic volcano hikes, natural hot springs, and the San Ramón waterfall; also take a dip at the Ojo de Agua swimming hole and check out the Charco Verde eco reserve and butterfly sanctuary.
Windsurfing, kiteboarding, snorkeling, catamaran rides, horseback riding, and ziplining are also abundant throughout the region. If you’re feeling more “X Games” than “Frankie says relax,” try volcano boarding or sandboarding—the former involves riding a small wooden board down the side of a volcano (either seated or standing); the latter involves boarding down a sand dune. And if you’re itching to get out on the open water, try Pastora Tours’ fishing charter, where guides will prepare your fresh catch as a sushi lunch in front of you.
