The Secret Ingredient in this South Canara Sambar

The green Mattu gulla brings a unique flavour and aroma to the beloved south Indian sambar.

In the coastal region of South Canara — Mangalore, Udupi, and even the smaller towns of Katapady and Karkala — vegetable and fruit markets are a riot of colour and flavours. From the aromatic Mangalore jasmine, to the exquisite beauty of the arecanut palm, the luscious Mangalore southekayi (cucumber), and the sweet, native pink onions that hang in bunches, these markets are nothing less than a feast for the senses.  

One particular vegetable that occupies pride of place is the Mattu gulla. Also called Udupi gulla, this is a variety of green eggplant (or brinjal), called gulla because of its spherical shape. Exclusive to villages like Mattu, Katapady and Kaipunjal, in and around Udupi, this variety of eggplant has a rather distinctive flavour and aroma, setting itself apart from other varieties.

Grown between October and June each year, this vegetable was awarded a GI (Geographical Indication) tag and patent protection early in the last decade. There are close to 200 farmers who cultivate this crop within an area of about 120 acres, all part of a cooperative called the Mattu Gulla Belegarara Sangha (Mattu Gulla Growers’ Society). In peak season, the price of gulla soars to almost Rs. 150 per kilo. Plans to export the beloved gulla are also underway.

The first harvest of Mattu gulla is always offered to the gods; in this case Sri Krishna of Udupi Mutt. Typically, Mattu gulla is cooked in a sambar, served at festivals and weddings, and of course, during the festivities of Udupi Paryaya, a biennial religious festival organised by the 800-year-old Udupi mutt.

Recipe: Gulla Hulli (Sambar)

Ingredients
2 medium-sized Udupi gulla 
4 tbsp freshly extracted thick tamarind paste
1 cup freshly grated coconut 
2-3 green chillies, slit lengthwise
5-6 dried red chillies
1 tsp turmeric powder
2 sprigs coriander, finely chopped
1-2 tsp jaggery powder (optional)
Salt to taste

For seasoning
2 tsp coconut oil
1 tsp mustard seeds 
3-4 dried red chillies
A pinch of asafoetida

Method
Take a heavy-bottomed pan, add the chopped gulla pieces, green chillies and enough water for it to cook. 
Add salt, turmeric and tamarind paste to this, mix well and cover. 
Cook until the pieces are soft and have absorbed the flavours of the tamarind and green chillies.
Meanwhile, grind the red chillies and coconut to a fine paste.
Add the ground mixture to the cooked gulla, mix well, add jaggery, if using, and bring to a boil. Add water if required.
Just before turning off the stove, add the chopped coriander.
Heat coconut oil and add mustard seeds.  Once they splutter, add the red chillies, and asafoetida and pour over the sambar.
Serve with hot rice.

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