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Cartier Relaunches The Pasha, A 1980s Cult Favorite, And Introduces The Maillon De Cartier

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The Pasha is back! After a year of speculation, Cartier has released the much-anticipated redesign of one of its most unusual designs, the Pasha. Vintage editions of the model, originally introduced in 1985, are a favorite on the secondary market, coveted by collectors and much copied by competitors. It was so-called because the Pasha of Marrakech, Thami El Glaoui, originally commissioned Cartier to make a watch of this design, and it later made its way into the regular collection. The relaunched Pasha is very faithful to the original. It retains the familiar square inner chapter ring framed by a round case,  the distinctive Arabic font for the numerals 12, 3, 6 and 9, sword shaped hands, the signature fluted crown cover and distinct stanchion bracelet connectors. It also retains a more subtle version of the original decorative chain that attaches the crown to the case. Cartier is offering the added option of having a personalized engraving under the chain, which can only be seen when it is removed.

The Pasha is famous for having been originally launched as a men’s watch but was so favored by women that it was eventually considered a ladies’ model. Cartier calls it unisex, and offers it in both 41 mm and 35 mm sizes. The new Pasha de Cartier is a full collection, available in steel, as well as 18k yellow and pink gold, which makes it immediately accessible.

There are also diamond-set and jewelry pieces, as well as a skeletonized version. There are several strap options, and the straps are interchangeable. It contains the automatic caliber 1847 MC with a 40 hour power reserve, and is water resistant to 100 meters. There are no chronograph or other complications yet – although there are plenty of those in vintage pieces – but these are no doubt to follow in future iterations. Prices range from $5,700 for a 35 mm steel to $16,600 for a 41 mm in gold on a strap and $38,500 on a gold bracelet with diamond bezel. Skeleton versions, at 41 mm, start at $25,300. Price on request for jewelry versions.

Cartier also launched the Maillon de Cartier, a new ladies’ watch, the focus of which is the 18k gold bracelet (maillon is French for “link”). It is a twisted take on the chain-link style with offset links that are aligned on the bias. It is an extremely angular, layered graphic look that seems ideally matched to Cartier’s signature Roman numerals.

“We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and transcend its design through a volume approach,” says Marie-Laure Céréde, Cartier’s timepieces creation director. The watch is available in red, yellow or white 18k gold, with a diamond bezel or a fully paved bezel, dial case and bracelet. There is also a version in yellow gold with a blue lacquer, tsavorite or black lacquer dial and bevels on the sides of bracelet links. The front links and bezel are set with diamonds. The Maillon de Cartier starts at $25,100 in yellow gold to $33,500 in white gold with diamond bezel. Jewelry and lacquer versions are priced on request.

Also new in the shaped watch category is a new version of the Privé Tank Asymétrique, originally introduced in 1936, known at the time as the Parallélogramme. The case shape is basically a rectangle that has been shifted 30 degrees to the right, with the 12 placed in the upper right hand corner and the 6 in the bottom left. It contains the manual-wound caliber 1917 MC, and comes with made-to-measure straps. There is also a skeletonized version. Both are limited to 100 pieces. Prices start at $26,400.