A Few Winter Days in Zermatt
After nearly two years of residence, I'm still very much in love with Switzerland, and there's no shortage of destinations to allow that love to flourish! How did it take me this long to finally make my way to Zermatt? I have no clue! Zermatt is one of the most excellent examples of Switzerland and any visit there is sure to be enjoyable. If you ski or snowboard, it's renowned for the proximity to the infamous Matterhorn. If you don't ski, fear not, there's plenty to see and do!
What could feel more Swiss than arriving by a slow railway winding through the Alps past the St. Niklaus, Randa and Täsch villages? We grabbed a couple passes on SBB.ch sixty days ahead of the trip and the ‘super saver’ had 1st and 2nd class days passes for the same price! Zermatt is just 3.5hrs from Basel by rail, and we had only one connection in Visp.
Where to Stay
Hotel Bellerive, Riedstrasse 3, 3920 Zermatt
After a smooth arrival at the Zermatt Station by rail, we immediately felt like we had arrived in our winter paradise! Our lodging was only a kilometer away, but the hotel had a shuttle, and we were quickly picked up and at the hotel within minutes. Shuttles are compact vehicles here this is a car-free town! We reserved our room at Hotel Bellerive months in advance and was lucky to secure the Sky Room with a balcony and wall of glass facing the Matterhorn. Our travel mate, Wrigley, came with us and they were very pet-friendly and accommodating.
Mario and Katja were the most wonderful hosts, greeting us with smiles and hellos with every turn. The breakfast was included and fantastic each morning. We had a table each morning that was perfect, allowing Wrigley to join and enjoy following his morning walk.
Sitting in a deep tub looking out to the Matterhorn on a cold, snowy morning is incredible from this room. Having the balcony to shoot photography from was terrific as well. The hotel is within easy walking distance to everything we desired and couldn’t have been more pleased!
What To Do
Get settled in your hotel and then take a walk through the lovely village of Zermatt! With a population of only 5,800 inhabitants, it’s easily managed on foot and fun to walk through. There are bars and restaurants lining the main town and of course your famous watchmakers such as Breitling, TAG Heuer, Rolex, and more. So, window shop away and enjoy! Hop into the Brown Cow Pub for a glass of wine or a cold beer and watch as horse-drawn carriages stroll by with new guest arrivals!
Skiing & Sightseeing
If you are a skier, this is a no-brainer. Zermatt is world renown for ski opportunities with excellent depth and fantastic powder. This area is the highest in Switzerland. Skiing with the Matterhorn looking over your shoulder provides the most fantastic scenery as you carve your way down the mountain. Plan to grab breakfast and get ready for a fantastic day!
Not a skier? No worries! Sleep in, grab breakfast and a relaxing cup of coffee. You’ll see skiers and snowboarders walking to the Gondola Lift Station. Follow them and buy a pass to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (via Matterhorn Express II). This Gondola is like every other Swiss public transport and has a few stops along the way. Stay on as the lift passes through the Furi and Schwarzsee stops. Hop out when you arrive at the Trockener Steg stop. You will have to switch gondolas at this point, so it’s best to walk around and even grab a snack or drink at the restaurant and take in the scenery. Doing so will give your body a chance to acclimate to the rise in elevation before going straight up to the Glacier Paradise, the highest lift point in Switzerland at 3,883m (12,739 ft). When you are ready, hop on the new beautiful gondolas and head up! There are views of the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps from this summit. It’s incredibly beautiful and well worth the price. There is an ice sculpture museum within the glacier that is quite fun!
Food & Drinks
Brown Cow Pub
This fantastic little restaurant and bar is the perfect spot for a great lunch or a low-key dinner. The service was wonderful, and the beer was cold! I really can’t ask for more! I will say that the bar food was terrific as well so enjoy!
The North Wall Bar
I stumbled upon this gem on Instagram one day and was quick to make sure I had a reservation in place for the night of our arrival. Nothing beats hot pizza and cold beer on a transit day! They source the fantastic local brewer Whitefrontier and toss some delicious pizza, made to exact to order.
Schäferstube
This classic Swiss restaurant was incredible, featuring traditional dishes sourcing local lamb. I had never tried Lamb Carpaccio and found that I prefer it over beef. Every meal we had was phenomenal, and I regretted opting to leave the camera behind. I’ll be sure to bring it when we visit again in the summer! Make reservations well ahead of time. I tried to get a last-minute reservation, and they were booked full for the following 3-weeks!
Filet et Fils Modern Grill
Lover of grilled meats? Look no further. Filet et Fils plated the best Venison dish that I’ve ever tried. My bride’s ribeye was also absolutely excellent. I tend to be a little underwhelmed on beef dishes in Switzerland, but that was not the case here. Had I known, I would have reserved one of the awesome igloos outside but the inside was warm so a great experience! Make reservations online!
saycheese!
If you are not accustomed to fondue in Switzerland and want a somewhat upscale environment, this is an excellent place for you. This was recommended to me for their Toblerone Fondue dessert. My honest assessment was that the cheese was a bit bland and I would have preferred the heartier selection or a Raclette. While a good experience, I would opt for a more authentic and rustic alternative or have a small version pre-meal at Schäferstube.
Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni
This Michelin Guide 2018 restaurant is one of the finer upscale options in the village with a very central location. The staff, as with most Michelin recommended restaurants, was attentive and consistent. The food was excellent. It was the highest cost of any restaurant we had and should be reserved for a ‘special occasion’!
I'm a US expat, blogging photographer and world-traveler who may or may not like tequila a bit too much.