A Local’s Guide to Lagos, Nigeria

A former lawyer, Reni Folawiyo left the corporate world to introduce luxury retail to her native Nigeria. Today, her Alara concept store, designed by David Adjaye and found on Lagos’s Victoria Island, houses an expertly curated selection of African and international labels and has become the standard for high-end shopping in the region. Folawiyo has been featured as a member of the BoF 500.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Describe your home for us.

I live primarily in Lagos, Nigeria. It’s not a city that one can easily describe. I feel Lagos more than I see it visually, which is interesting and unique. It’s the energy of this city, the tenacity of the people, the creativity in abundance, the force of the youth, and therefore its promise. I see Lagos as a city in transition, that energy and frenzy that’s leading us somewhere magical.

Tell us about your connection to Lagos

Lagos is becoming a cultural force, I feel lucky to be somewhat in the center of its creative transformation. With my work in Alara and Nok [her restaurant] we are able to influence the transformation by engaging actively with the youth in the arts, creating a platform for them, standing up for them, and believing in their promise. Living in Lagos also allows me to explore more of our culture, as there’s a good connection to other parts of the country where we rediscover age-old traditions and artisans to work with.

If a friend was in Lagos for 24 hours, where should they go?

Start the day nice and early before the city wakes up, with a walking or cycling tour of old Lagos to see the historical buildings and the origins of Lagos today. Afterward, you could then take a quick boat ride to Tarkwa Bay beach; this ride also allows you to view Lagos from its coast. Take the longer route for a deeper appreciation of the island.

For the early evening, there’s always something cultural and great happening at Freedom Park, which now has a skate park. Jazz in the city is thriving at OTI’s and at Bogobiri for a night out. Start with dinner at Nok, then an hour of jazz, and hopefully, if it’s a Sunday night, finish off at the Fela Kuti shrine. You will probably have to roll from there onto your flight.

For me, sitting quietly people-watching is inspiring—the energy, the rush, or sometimes not; the sense of style on the streets is epic. For everyone is a peacock, literally, and with something profound to say, and so it’s inspiring to me. Or visit me at my woodworking studio, on the outskirts of Lagos, where you will find sculptors, wood carvers, and other artisans experimenting and connecting.

What’s a happening neighborhood to check out?

Yaba, for the contrast of old town and new tech hub, is interesting to me. I’m curious to see how this area develops. It has open-air Afrobeats clubs and restaurants, as well as the popular Tejuosho Market. The University of Lagos is also there.

What excites you about Lagos right now?

The youth; they are claiming the city, and it’s super exciting, in tech, music, food, and the arts in general. They are also pushing the boundaries to live and express themselves freely and openly regardless of old biases and sexuality. It’s the kind of pressure that will eventually create more openness and change.