A Local’s Guide to the Dominican Republic

Inés Páez, known as Chef Tita, has been cooking since she was 17 years old and a judge on her country’s MasterChef. Currently she is known as the forerunner of the new Dominican cuisine, as well as one of the creators of the Gastronomic Diplomacy program in her country.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

What are the aromas that define your memories of your country?

The smell of coffee in the morning. It is part of our culture and identity. The aroma of ginger, canelilla, and lemongrass infusions has also marked me.

What are your favorite local markets?

The Dominican Republic is a fairly fertile country that, apart from tourism, lives off agriculture. I like going to the markets, enjoying the people, the joy of the Dominicans and how picturesque we are. Seeing and knowing the diversity of products that are produced in our land, looking for new ones, and finding those that have been disappearing over the years is something I enjoy. My favorites are the Livestock Fair market, which is on George Washington Avenue, on the Malecón. Another one that I love is the Mercado Modelo, on Avenida Mella, north of the colonial zone and a landmark on the island. It has more than 70 years of history. It’s full of local products and, for the most part, they’re handcrafted. There are also pieces of clay, paintings, crafts, sweets, and a wide variety of products.

There is also Merca Santo Domingo, opened in 2012 and located on the Duarte highway. It is a collection-and-distribution center for all the fruits that are produced in our land, from where they are sent to the different markets and supermarkets in the country. Also the Central Market in the Ágora Mall square, which is held once a month. Here I support low-income producers who work with me, giving them visibility and projecting their products.

What are your favorite restaurants?

Ajualä, for its signature cuisine and local products. Or El Gallego, for its Spanish food with a Dominican influence. Also Dominican Gastronomic House, in the colonial zone, which serves Creole cuisine.

What is the traditional dish you couldn't live without?

The Dominican flag, the country's flagship dish—so called because each ingredient represents our flag. It has been my favorite since I was a child because of the special way my mother prepared it: with the white rice, the concon—the rice stuck to the cauldron—stewed black beans, stewed chicken, caramelized ripe banana, green plantain, and avocado tostones.

A dish that we should not miss?

Sancocho of seven meats; the chenchén, from the south—with stewed goat—and the beans with sweet.

Why should we travel to the Dominican Republic?

Because it is the first settlement of America, the place where the first encounter between two worlds took place, and because it is a country full of colors, flavors, and smells. It is rich in products, with a unique culture with influences from more than 16 countries and with excellent gastronomy. It is a country of happy, hospitable people, with impressive beauty and full of mountains, beaches, rivers, mountains, valleys, and coasts. We are the first destination in the Caribbean, and we are the gastronomic capital of the Caribbean.

Follow Inés Páez on Instagram @lacheftita