Review: The Leela Palace Udaipur

Domed havelis with delicately latticed jharoka balconies seem better suited to fairy tales than austere stone castles with imposing turrets. Udaipur, Rajasthan’s City of Lakes, has all the ingredients for a romantic myth, and on the banks of Lake Pichola, the Leela Palace has made generous use of them to re-create the erstwhile era of maharajas. After floating across from town by boat, consult with the palace astrologer about your forthcoming plans, swim laps in a pool flanked by stone peacocks, or while away the hours in museum-like hallways that are a tribute to Rajasthan’s Mewar rulers. Each of the 80 rooms has views over the vast landscape, and there are brilliant Ayurvedic treatments in the spa. But the defining moment is spending twilight on one of the many terraces, when a dusky glow falls over the city from across the water, which proves that the greatest theatrics are all-natural. Doubles from $610.