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MAOISTS AND DALITS: A CASE STUDY IN A LOCALITY IN EASTERN NEPAL Pustak Ghimire In Khotang district, the Maoists, too few to become involved in the daily administration, concentrated on tactical issues: removing the police force and state officials, taming local notables and blockading Diktel, the district administrative centre.1, 2 Though the moral transformation of villagers was a priority,3 radical social and economic reforms were postponed until the takeover in Kathmandu (Ghimire 2012: 111–112). However, despite the Maoists’ limited ambitions in the district, measures to end the discriminatory and vexatious treatment the untouchables suffered at the hands of all the communities were of particular import. While shaking up a totally unprepared society, the Maoists emphasized that a “Dalit problem” did exist, which other communities were not fully aware of. However, though limited and isolated, their actions set into motion a process the effects of which have continued beyond that period in time. Before examining them, it would be worthwhile discussing the local situation of the untouchables and the very nature of their problems and resentment. 1 2 3 This study is based on personal experience in Temma, a locality in the Sapsukhola Valley. Information on the war years was collected during two field trips (February–October 2007; October 2008–February 2009) and updated over shorter stays in 2010 and 2011. All were funded by the ANR program coordinated by Marie Lecomte-Tilouine. For their helpful comments and corrections to the language, I would like to thank Marie LecomteTilouine, Anne de Sales and Bernadette Sellers (CNRS), Paris. The modalities of the Màobàdãs’ control varied depending on the districts and the circumstances, see de Sales (2007: 341–342, 2012: 159); Gellner (2007: 26); Lecomte-Tilouine (2010). On Maoist methods, see Sharma (2004: 51– 53), Onta (2004: 145–148). See also Lecomte-Tilouine (2009: 68–76) for the Maoists’ conception of war and Pettigrew (2007: 308–309) on the Maoists use of fear in a Gurung village. On Maoist puritanism and moral order: Ramirez (1997: 62–64, 2006: 213– 215). Similar tactics were applied by the Naxalites of Bengal where they carried out an attack on recalcitrant villagers before imposing the strict puritanical moral code on the population and forming their own parallel state with a fiscal system (Singh 1995: 4–12). On the influence of the revolutionary struggle in India, see Boquérat (2009: 46–49). Studies in Nepali History and Society 16(2): 319–348 December 2011 © Mandala Book Point 320 Pustak Ghimire The Low Castes in the Villages: Improvement and Frustrations It is generally assumed that the occupational castes settled in Khotang between the sixteenth and the eighteenth centuries in the wake of Brahmin-Chhetris and Magar migrants. Scattered around and about remote hamlets, they are outnumbered in all the village development committees (VDCs). They account for less than five percent of the population of the district and for 15 percent at national level. In Temma, the VDC we will focus on, the population (4,075 in 2001) is divided into five main groups: the autochthonous Chamling Rais (48%), the Magars (22%), the Chhetris (17%), the Dalits (9%) and the Brahmins (3%).4 In Temma, the Dalit group comprises three occupational castes. Of Hindu persuasion, each caste has its own distinct religious worship with its own religious specialists, purohits. They do not share festivals or have any common celebrations. Between them, they maintain a strict hierarchy and a culture of contempt which impregnates their relationships with the other Dalit communities. Intermarriage is out of the question. The upper caste of “blacksmiths” (Kàmã) does not accept food prepared by “tailors” or “cobblers” who are not even allowed to enter their homes. Villagers associate “blacksmiths” with their blackened faces to the spirits of the dead, since they work in the furnace. The idea prevails that to come across a Kàmã brings a traveller a bad luck. “Cobblers” (Sàrkã) are despised because of the smell associated with their craft: they are nicknamed “stinky people” or worse, “scavengers” by those who imagine that they feed on the carcasses they collect. “Tailors” (Damàã) occupy the lowest rung in the caste hierarchy. Kàmãs and Sàrkãs refuse to enter their homes as they do not accept the food they cook. However, the Damàã provoke mixed feelings. Though their activities as tailors are scorned, their musical performances (which are much sought after for propitiatory ceremonies) are greatly appreciated; unlike “blacksmiths,” they are said to bring good luck to those who meet them early in the morning. Thus, geographically scattered over the village, occupational castes form three separate, rather introverted communities. Each family of craftsmen maintains a client relationship with the Brahmin-Chhetri or Magar family that helped it to settle. A relationship of subordination exists with the Chamling Rai notables of the neighboring villages. Subservience to the other groups is profoundly interiorized by the Dalits. 4 CBS Census (2004), Kathmandu. Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 321 This does not imply that the Dalits find themselves in a miserable economic situation. As a whole, these craftsmen occupy mid-position as far as their fortune is concerned. The “cobblers,” who own rice fields in the most fertile part of the valley, have always been part of the village middle class, but without benefiting from the social consideration that any well-off rice farmer normally enjoys on the part of his neighbors. It goes without saying that artisans were excluded from the public office of mukhiyà which was a source of prestige and income. They did not take advantage of recruitment into the British Ghurkhas. The civil service and the teaching profession in particular, was de facto closed to them. However, they made a decent living year in year out from their craft activities. Since the 1980s, the crisis affecting their traditional activities, which are threatened by Chinese and Indian manufactured products, has tested the ability of the lower castes to adapt to new economic circumstances. In the 1990s emigration to work on building sites in the Middle East offered them new opportunities. Eight Damàãs out of a community of about 120 people, six Kàmãs out of 80, 21 Sàrkãs out of 129, ventured abroad: they send money to their parents who build comfortable houses and buy land that they sell mainly to Brahmins-Chhetris. Those who have remained in Khotang turn out to be more open to innovation than other villagers: the Dalits who were the first to install diesel-powered mills now earn more in the village than those abroad; others have become well-known middlemen involved in emigration networks. All in all, over the last twenty years, the position of the occupational castes has improved from an economic point of view. They have been helped by their manual skills and a familiarity with exchange and trade which have predisposed them to fending for themselves in a village now integrated in the market economy. However, the education of their children has never been a priority (unlike the Brahmins-Chhetris and the Rais). They project an image of poorly educated communities, astute but lacking any manners or scruples, who are severely ostracized by Nepal’s caste society, a bias which is shared by the Chamling Rais. For the autochthones that are deprived within their own community of any stratification based on purity, the Hindu hierarchy does not pose any problem as long as it applies to others. Their basic indifference to what differs from them is only tempered by their ability to accommodate things that do not bother them. Thus, for the Chamling Rais, at least till the Janajati nationalist movement began to question the caste system in the 1990s, the internal hierarchy of Indo-Nepali groups has been regarded as 322 Pustak Ghimire normal and natural since the Indo-Nepaleses view it that way. This conformist appropriation of the values of others certainly does not clash with their own conceptions based on unequal rights between autochthones and “outsiders.” One might object that the Rai conception does not convey the culture of contempt in keeping with in the Hindu caste system. Yet, since the Dalits themselves have internalized the contempt they are the object of, the Rais also maintain this type of relationship with them. The rules that reflect the subordinate position of the untouchables should not be unduly singled out. Accepting water or a cooked meal only from an equal (or someone of an upper caste) is routine, and does not set apart the low castes. Similarly, the rule that limits access to some parts of the house (fireside, kitchen and places of worship) to members of the household, as well as endogamy, is valid for all communities. These two aspects, whatever the primary cause, are now components of the Rai culture, just as they are of Hinduism.5 Ultimately, sexual prejudice matters more than everything: the mere thought of a sexual relationship with a Dalit is repulsive since it leads to exclusion from the group of origin. Let us not forget that the disdain the untouchables suffer, expressed through a binding code, is aimed at the caste not at the individual. As part of the clientele relationship handed down from generation to generation, personal relationships may be congenial and even cordial insofar as the strict caste protocol allows for it, especially when families and houses are some distance away from each other. Indeed, the Brahmin-Chhetris and the Chamling Rais living at the valley bottom get on better with the “tailors” and “blacksmiths” living in the lek (Highlands) than with their neighbors, the “cobblers,” with whom they compete for land. On the other hand, the relationships between, on one hand, the Damàãs and the Kàmãs and, on the other hand, the Rais and the Magars in the lek, who share the same territory, quickly turn sour. It is primarily a question of territory, not of caste. Occupational castes generally refrain from getting involved in any disputes between Brahmin-Chhetris and Chamling Rais (except in 1951, after the fall of the Rana regime, when they sided with the Rai chieftains and the Magars to intimidate the higher castes) and from challenging local 5 The origins and development of the caste system in eastern Nepal are still a topic of much debate, since the Janajati leaders are of the opinion that this aspect of “Hinduization” was “imported” at a late stage by Brahmin-Chhetri settlers and “imposed” by the Gurkha monarchy. Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 323 hierarchies. However, along with the Rais and the Magars, the Dalits are not the last to mock the higher castes. At the same time, they are forever complaining to the Brahmin-Chhetris about the Rais and Magars’ harsh manners. The reputation of gossipmonger that has stuck to the Dalits only makes things more complicated: every time a Brahmin-Chhetri or a Chamling Rai borrows money from them, they shout it on the rooftops, so people say; and when rumors spread concerning prohibited sexual relationships, they never deny them. The fear of blackmail which gives the Dalits a potential capacity to harm, combined with the traditional biases against them, has led the other groups to keep them at a safe distance. Despite these ambivalent attitudes and the mutual backbiting, mainstream communities had long maintained with the small Dalit groups in the village relations which could be described as distant, globally fair, and above all marked by indifference. However, the political turmoil since 2001 has brought to light a “suffering from being untouchable” which had gone unnoticed, hidden by the traditional social codes. Insulting expressions and humiliating gestures of avoidance were one aspect of the problem but such cases are increasingly rare. Another aspect was the utter lack of interest on the part of other communities towards the untouchables’ difficulties, sensitivity, and self-esteem. Whereas the Brahmin-Chhetris, the Rais and even the Magars are forever engaged in mutual comparison and appreciation, in terms of respect the untouchables are “invisible.” Their condition condemns them to worthlessness, “zerovalue” in the village hierarchy, “nobodies” who do not count socially, with no hope of promotion or redemption. No enriched untouchable could expect to enjoy the social consideration that comes with good fortune and makes a rich man a local notable. Since the beginning of the 2000s, this has been the core of the problem. Maoists and the Dalit Issue The Dalit issue, though raised decades before, has become increasingly important at national level in the context of identity claims which intensified with the “democratic revolution” in the 1990s.6 Whereas the Muluki Ain of 1854 had carefully regulated and systematized caste status, the interim constitution of 1951 and the constitution of 1959 and 1962 banned any discrimination based on caste and religion (Caplan 1972: 92– 6 For an historical development of the Nepali Dalit social movement, especially since 1947, see Kisan (2005: 81–114). 324 Pustak Ghimire 93). On the one hand, the idea of equality between individuals which is endorsed by law and disseminated through education and media spread everywhere; the policies in India aimed at promoting disadvantaged castes became a reference for the Nepali Dalit movement. On the other hand, changes in everyday behavior were painfully slow and discriminations, gradually erased from civil law and penalized in 1992, were still legitimized by religious traditions. In addition, the backwardness which penalized Dalits in the fields of education and health, primarily an urban concern, exacerbated their resentment.7 The democratization process, starting from 1990, led to the almost complete exclusion of Dalits from political life. Whereas under the Panchayat regime, the monarchy had always sought to ensure the latter’s symbolic representation in central government, voters rejected the untouchable candidates in the 1994 and 1999 elections (Hachhetu 2003: 240). During the democratic parliamentary system from 1990 to 2002, no Dalit personality emerged from the political parties or became Minister. Demands regarding positive discrimination in the realms of politics, education, employment, inspired by what has been achieved in India, fell on deaf ears, and the few projects to improve the condition of low castes have been shelved (Kisan 2005: 62–75). The Dalit movement is split into many different organizations, which are politically divided between progressives and conservatives, and diffident about the issue of Hinduism (Kisan 2005: 135–155). But, in the mountain villages of Khotang that were unaffected by the debate taking place in Kathmandu and in the towns of the Tarai plain, this was hardly a subject of conversation. Whilst in the cities and at national level the Dalit NGO federation played a crucial role in raising public awareness about the disadvantaged castes’ situation, nobody in the village, including the untouchables themselves, had apparently heard about it. In the 1990s, none of the occupational castes in Temma had ever envisaged speaking in one voice to defend a common agenda based on Dalits claims. Though most of them sympathized with the Communist Party (United-MarxistLeninist [UML]), which was deemed to be more favorable to their interests, the more conservative Nepali Congress and the Royalist Party captured a substantial part of their votes. The local untouchable elders who had considerable influence over their communities were largely moderate in their outlook, and they certainly remained unaffected by the Dalit rhetoric which had spread to the cities. It is significant that no “Dalit 7 For an overview see, Bhattachan et al. (2009). Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 325 section” existed at village level in the three main parties: when they were politically active, the untouchables mixed with the other communities (which of course provided the local leaders) and they described themselves as communist or Congress sympathizers, but certainly not as Dalits. The Maoists, a splinter group resulting from a scission of the radical wing of the Communist Party of Nepal (UML), aspired to a national regeneration, wanted to reconstruct the State and radically recast society by revolutionary coercion (Lecomte-Tilouine 2012: 203–205). Wavering between ideology and pragmatism, their leaders, often Brahmin-Chhetris or Newars, claim that they might temporarily tolerate the caste system, purged of its unequal and discriminatory character. For them, the Dalits’ sufferance is a by-product and a vile aspect of the “capitalist feudal caste system” they want to get rid of. However, the “Dalit question” is not central to their political thinking. Although the leading voice and the armed wing of the most underprivileged layers of society (which include the low castes), the Maoist Communist Party considers itself primarily as the “party of the whole people,” not as the tool or the vehicle for the demands of one particular group, however humiliated it may be. Since the Maoists oppose any discrimination, the affirmative-action policy the Dalit social movement cherishes is not in keeping with their ideological heritage. They do not reject it as a principle but they seem to be afraid that specific actions singularizing the Dalits perpetuate the castes distinction they want abolish as soon as possible.8 More generally, they know they would gain nothing by being denounced by their enemy as the Dalits’ golden hope. They prefer to promote themselves as those who were effective in putting an end to vexatious treatment in daily life,9 where 8 9 Point 67 of the Common Minimum Policy and Program of United Revolutionary People’s Council adopted in September 2001: “Since the Dalits are oppressed on a caste basis for long, and are generally weak and backward economically‚ socially, culturally and otherwise, the state shall make provisions for special rights to them until they turn practically equal to others‚ and this shall be governed by rules.” The transitory nature of the special treatment granted to the Dalits can be deduced from the careful wording which contrasts with the Maoist inflammatory rhetoric. All non-Dalits have to use a very formal language when they address the Dalits. The less polite form of you (tÐ) was no longer tolerated. Dalits had to be addressed as “brother,” “sister,” “uncle” or “aunt” followed by the patronymic name and in their turn, Dalits had to abstain from calling the notables of the other communities Mukhiyà/Mukhinã or Biùña/Biùñinã (master/mistress), as was expected in the past. 326 Pustak Ghimire others (meaning the Communists [UML]…) have failed. However, the “Dalit question” was expected to go away of its own accord, since there is no room for castes and classes in a communist society. Wherever they have been able to enforce their program, the Màobàdãs acted with their well-known brutality. In Deurali, they ordered that temples be opened to Dalits and in many localities they implemented a systematic policy to force other castes to open the doors of their houses to untouchables. They even forced high-caste people to marry Dalits (Lecomte-Tilouine 2010: 124). Cows were slaughtered and the meat was cooked by untouchables and shared at community meals where participants were sometimes invited by force (Boquérat 2009: 54). However, while the Dalits, initially a small minority in their rank, became more visible, they were not privileged by the “revolutionary governments of the village” (Gà-Ja-Sa) which replaced the former local authorities in the areas they controlled. Moreover, the economic and social policy of the Maoists was aimed not so much at addressing the specific problems of Dalits as preparing the ground for a revolutionary order.10 Generally speaking, beyond the application of measures intended to make clear to everybody that discrimination towards untouchables was no longer tolerable and their anti-Brahminist stance, the Maoists did little to back the Dalit movement’s identity claims that were doomed to dissolve in a new order from which the archaisms and the injustices of the past would be banished. This belittled the resistance and resilience of the Nepali socio-religious organization, and specially the propensity of the Dalits themselves to conceive their problems in the framework of the caste system, as the example of Khotang illustrates. How the Maoists Gained the Sympathy of the Dalits The first generation of Maoist combatants, who were decimated in battles between 2001 and 2006, counted in their ranks a substantial number of Brahmins and Chhetris, and some Kirantis and Magars, but few untouchables. In eastern Nepal where their position was initially weak, the primary goal of these guerrillas was survival and livelihood.11 They 10 11 Lecomte-Tilouine (2010: 122–123 ), who emphasizes that the Maoist selected chiefs of Gà-Ja-Sa among isolated “powerless” individuals of the smallest groups does not give any specific example of a promotion of a Dalit in Deurali and Dullu, though these localities were showcases for the Maoist order. For an overview on the Maoists in Khotang, see Ghimire (2012). Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 327 worked hard to gain the sympathy of Dalits without alienating the notables of other communities.12 The Màobàdãs were constantly forced to find new shelter. Contacts with Dalit families in hamlets in the highlands, on the edge of the forests where they found refuge, initially served their reputation among low castes. A “blacksmith” woman remembers that a group of Màobàdãs turned up at her house when her husband was very sick. She needed help in transplanting finger millet, a tiresome task. As soon as they arrived, the Maoists took up spades, prepared the ground and transplanted the finger millet, working ten hours a day for five days. This woman announced that she was “proud” to have prepared and served meals for these young people who had been born into upper castes and had no prejudice in matters of commensality. The Màobàdãs’ solicitude was a self-conscious subversion of the social and religious order. Thus it was perceived and appreciated by low castes. It did not cause any ripples in other communities which, besides, had nothing to say. The sympathy the Dalits gained became apparent every time the Maoists summoned the population to attend sessions of the People’s Court (Jana Adàlat), their own controversial system of justice that symbolized and implemented their new order (Ghimire 2008–2009: 126– 127). I reported the defamatory treatment of an elderly paõóit who persisted in ignoring the new regulations enacted in religious matters. Some Chamling Rai chieftains and Chhetris landowners were also mistreated, at least as far as their economic interests were concerned when the Maoists confiscated the rice stored in their attics and distributed it free of charge to a hesitant population. Whatever the case, it was reported that the Dalits, obviously summoned by the Màobàdãs, came in large numbers and were the privileged spectators of the humiliation inflicted on the “paper tigers” that the former “big men” had become. I intentionally use the word “spectators.” The Maoists, while capitalizing on the resentment of the Dalits do not seem to have regarded the latter as actors of a social revolution, at this stage reduced to a symbol, which they alone intended to control. Instead, the Dalits constituted a more or less willing “claque” of the “street theatre” performed by the Maoists. 12 To know how the Maoists tried to humanize their controversial reputation in order to gain the sympathy of the villagers in Dolakha, see Shneiderman and Turin (2004: 90–91). 328 Pustak Ghimire The humiliation inflicted on the notables, whatever the complex feelings it might inspire, did not actually guarantee a special place for the Dalits in the new order. The ostensible sympathy of the new masters, the hope of improving their fate, and more concretely, the will to gain consideration that society refused them—especially in the case of young girls who had virtually no opportunity of expatriation—and perhaps a deliberate strategy to lend weight to the decisions taken by the local Màobàdãs as my informants suggested, led many young untouchables to join the Maoist ranks in order to replace the “martyrs.” However, it was only during the siege of Diktel in 2004–2006 that villagers started noticing the presence of untouchables in the Maoist ranks. Maoist Abruptness The question of untouchables accessing Hindu sanctuaries, a sensitive issue in western Nepal, did not arise with any acuity in Khotang which only has three temples, two of them in areas under army control. No forced marriage with an untouchable was reported. Other than consideration for local feelings, this restraint might be explained by the indirect and intermittent control the Maoists exerted on Khotang from a distance (Ghimire 2012: 128–130). Yet it would be wrong to believe that the question of sexual relations was totally overlooked. A case involving a Chamling Rai, a former mayor elected under the Communist Party UML banner, will serve to illustrate this point. Like any local politician, he had enemies among his constituents. Villagers claim that the latter sought to influence a schoolgirl of sixteen, born into a “blacksmith” family and of an unknown father, with an uncanny resemblance to the mayor. When the girl, manipulated by them, solemnly asked her putative father for compensation and a share of her heritage, she was sorely rebuked. Revolted and abused, she joined the ranks of the People’s Liberation Army (PLA) to fight injustice and more especially to inform her new friends of the wrong she had suffered. Several months later, the PLA stormed the village and invited the former mayor to recognize his failings and his child. To help him remember, he was beaten up in front of his wife and neighbors. The man confessed what they wanted to hear. The girl now has a father whose name she bears. She has inherited a rice field worth 400,000 rupees. A dispute of greater importance arose in connection with untouchables accessing the houses of the other communities. Each house is primarily a sanctuary for domestic worship. The sacred hearth and the altar of the household deities are located in the main room. Its access is restricted to members of the clan. That is why, in all Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 329 communities, the veranda, yard and garden are a privileged space for sociability and conviviality. The rule is strictly enforced by Chamling Rais whose ancestors physically reside in three locations: the three sacred stones of the hearth (distinct from the fireplace where they cook), the main pillar and the jar of sacred liquor (Mochàmà). During the People’s War, villagers had to shelter Maoist fugitives. For security reasons, they hid for several days on the first floor of the house without emerging except at night, subject to their hosts’ good will. In this special context, when everybody was equally afraid of a sudden army raid which could lead to dire consequences for all, villagers and Màobàdãs played their part to make things easy. The former were reluctant to overlook the rules, but they learned to adjust to an unpleasant situation. The courtesy shown at that time by the Màobàdãs helped: as they now all say, “the first generation of Maoists were all deferential, modest and very polite.” These words conceal another reality: these Màobàdãs of the period 2001–2004 were Brahmin-Chhetris and Newars, or Chamling Rais, thus naturally respectful of the autochthones and Hindus’ sacred places, and of the protocol that governs access to buildings and gestures. By contrast, the Dalits who joined the revolutionary ranks in 2004–2006 under a concealed identity revealed who they were by their manifest ignorance of this protocol. Over the months, a climate of suspicion arose between the hosts and their guests. When the Maoists tightened their hold over Khotang, certain “fauxpas,” first occasional and involuntary, became wilful and vexatious. A policy of systematic intrusion into private homes, intended to breach the social prejudices against the Dalits, left its victims stunned and helpless. I was once told the misadventures of a Brahmin family, more amazed than indignant, as they struggled with a Damàã girl of Solukhumbu who invaded the most sacred spaces of their house (Ghimire 2008–2009). High-caste people, concerned exclusively with their neighbors’ opinion, were fatalistic because, as they would say, everyone was in the same boat. As a Chhetri confessed, “there is not one house in Khatrãgƒu where untouchables have not entered. So today, everyone is pure or everyone is impure.” This Chhetri, who managed to dissociate himself from this obsession with purity, skilfully observed that, whereas Dalit intrusions into the homes of Brahmin-Chhetris had exasperated them, the Chamling Rais had felt downright violated for two reasons: “first of all, the Rai deem that this is their home, that they are the masters of the land and their houses are not hostels for any person to enter as they please. Secondly, a Rai house does not belong so much to its occupants as to their 330 Pustak Ghimire ancestors, who are perpetually present, living and invisible at the same time; it is their temple, their sanctuary, and it is out of the question for an untouchable (achåt) to put one foot inside …” Rai neighbors confirmed this view: “We, the Rais, do not believe that all men are equal. On one side there are the divinities of the house, our ancestors and ourselves, and on the other side there are all the others. Those others, even the Brahmins, are all “untouchables” in the eyes of the divinities of the house. Our house belongs to our divinities, who do not accept strangers in our home, as long as it remains ours.” These are words of suffering, rather than exasperation, I heard from a Rai whose home has been desecrated. This Chamling notable was taken aback to find his house invaded by strangers who had already emptied the jar of sacred liquor (Mochàmà) placed near the fireplace (where the ancestors dwell) and were grilling maize in the sacred hearth (målculhà). They were all untouchables merrily riding roughshod over forbidden places. After getting them to leave in return for a considerable revolutionary donation, the unfortunate owner started suffering from sleep disorders and nightmares. His health deteriorated at an alarming rate. All the Shamans explained that the house’s divinities were agitated, in turmoil, because untouchables had polluted the sacred places. The Rai notable, struck by the ancestors’ wrath, was desperate: “If the gods of the house turn away from me, it’s the end of my family.” Tensions between Chhetris and Cobblers In the previously reported cases, villagers were pitched head-to-head with unwelcome Màobàdã guests of unknown origin, not with their untouchable neighbors. While low castes were initially keen to keep a low profile, the hope that they would obtain unambiguous support from the Maoists encouraged some local Dalits to speak out, and even to confront other communities. These occasional tensions were limited to the villages of the byàsã (valley bottom) where the “cobblers,” the most well-off among the low castes, have competed for decades with other communities for land ownership. As mentioned earlier, since the Chhetris resettled the “cobblers” at the bottom of the valley, where their activities are less of a disturbance to their neighbors, the “cobblers” have given up their craft to become rice growers whose prosperity matches that of the average Brahmin-Chhetri or Chamling Rai. However, some of them have remained crippled by debts inherited from their grandparents. The following story, which was narrated by a 36-year-old cobbler and was confirmed by other villagers, is Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 331 an example of how in the past illiterate and guileless Dalits could end up being abused by unscrupulous neighbors. More than fifty years ago, the former Chhetri jimmàwàl (tax collector and leading figure in his community) in Khatrigaun made a loan to a “cobbler.” Since then, the borrower’s family has had to work for the loaner’s progeny. The Maoist upsurge prompted the grandson to ask his creditor (who, of course, sent him about his business) how much grain his grandfather had been given, and why it had not yet been repaid. The “big men” of Temma, whether Chamling Rais, Brahmins, Chhetris or Magars, mocked him and asked: “How long has it taken a stinky boy (the nickname for Sàrkãs) to become smart (Kahile dekhi gandhe bàñho bhayo)?” He then learned that his grandfather had borrowed 80 kilos of finger millet and maize two generations ago, that the interests had accrued and that he was far from having settled his debt. His parents and grandparents had never dared to ask any questions: they had assumed that Sàrkãs had to put up with such things. When the Maoists took over Khotang, the Sàrkãs were among the few to take the slogan “land to the tiller” (Jasko jot usko pot) literally. The landowners became alarmed. To guard themselves against any claim, some of them decided to break all the farm tenancies in February 2004 and leave their land fallow. However, their Sàrkã tenants cried foul and turned a deaf ear when called to give back the farmland. Faced with their unwillingness, a Chhetri notable called upon local Maoist leaders for help, since one of them was related to him. A Maoist militia suddenly raided Sàrkãgƒu, the Màobàdãs pointed their guns at the chest of the unruly tenants and warned them to pay more respect in the future to the inviolable and sacred right to property. Terrified, the Sàrkãs quickly understood that they would never measure up to a landowner who had connections among the Màobàdãs. Sickened by this affair, some youths decided to join the ranks of the People’s Army to gain inside influence, just as the Chhetri had managed to do. Indeed, as their relatives told me later, for these young disappointed Sàrkãs, the Màobàdãs who were supposed to be the “natural righters of wrongs” arbitrated in favor of the local “big men” just because they were misinformed or misguided. They could not apparently imagine that the Maoist political direction had its own tactical priorities where the Dalits’ interests were not, at least in that case, of prime importance. In taking up the Maoist cause, the “cobblers” thought they could effectively defend their community interests from the inside, as the Chhetris did, to become agents of their own emancipation: they decided to side with the potential winners in the hope they would not betray the Dalits’ interest when the time of a peace agreement came. 332 Pustak Ghimire Whereas relations between Chhetris and Sàrkãs were already strained, a serious incident opposed the two villages in 2005 during the festival of Tihar. According to Chhetri witnesses, that evening, two young Sàrkãs returned home to Sàrkãgƒu. They had spent the night joking and drinking with their young Chamling friends in the neighboring Rai village of Jyàmire. They were drunk and out for a fight. Near Khatrãgƒu, they met a Chhetri who was on his way home after receiving the Tãkà from a clan sister. Annoyed by the two drunk guys who needed light to find their way home, the Chhetri refused to lend them his torch, and saw them off with a resounding “good night, Stinky boys!” A fight broke out. Alerted by the screams, a septuagenarian Chhetri, a highly respected notable, known for his progressive views, came down from his veranda and roused the neighborhood. Unfortunately for him the two Sàrkãs flattened the old man, tore off his trouser and grabbed his testicles, “just like when they castrate cattle” an indignant witness told me. Awakened by the noise, about fifty Chhetris, men, women and children, came out of their houses. The two Sàrkãs had cleared off, but there was a strong feeling of indignation among the Chhetris: not only was the victim a man who had done nothing to deserve this degradation, but nobody could let someone wearing the sacred thread be abused by two “cobblers” whose contact forever inspires repulsion, as the Chhetri witnesses stressed. The Chhetris, emotionally shocked, sought the path to Sàrkãgƒu in a torchlight procession and demanded that the drowsy “cobblers” deliver the culprits. Anticipating the worst, the Sàrkã purohit vainly strove to calm the situation. As he told me later, he implored both the Sàrkãs and the Chhetris to postpone a decision to the morning, when everybody recovers a clear and cold mind: “Let us stop the uproar! It is night time, our boys are drunk but they are not alone to have drunk. We all should control our emotion and anger. I can certify the boys will stay in the village and we will meet with the victim together tomorrow. I know, such things should not happen. I humbly request all of you to go back home (mero bintã cha sabai ghar gaidinuhos!).” Deaf to reason, some impatient young Chhetris forced a door but the Sàrkãs overpowered their attackers by throwing stones from the top of their verandas and the low walls surrounding their fields. The cobblers’ village became a battlefield until the defeated Chhetris retreated. Some people were slightly wounded. The whole village was in turmoil. At dawn, the Chhetris called upon the Maoists to render justice and the latter (once again…) stormed Sàrkãgƒu, found the Sàrkã aggressors guilty (“no mercy for drunkards” is a part of the Màobàdã doctrine…): one of them had already fled to India; the second served the sentence that the People’s Court imposed on him, three months’ forced labor in a Maoist rehabilitation camp. Though Màobàdã justice was generally regarded as fair, both sides were left to lick their wounds after this affair. Though far from proud of how their two boys had behaved and not too happy with Maoist Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 333 arbitration, the “cobblers” were astonished at their self-confidence, and delighted at having thrashed the Chhetris. The Chhetris, who had hardly distinguished themselves with their bravery during the night-time fight, were well aware of their weaknesses. One of their notables told me that “the Sàrkãs had grown bold. One day, they will overcome us, we, the Chhetri cowards who were unable to defend ourselves. Since we let such an honest old man be mistreated as we did, nobody is safe now. As such, the importance of this incident should not be overrated. In no way, it reflected the existence of tensions which should be singularized. The drunkards’ quarrels are a part of the village life, and they do not degenerate infrequently: sometimes dozens of youths of neighboring villages come to fight, creating a short time emotion in the whole area; umpires (usually retired Gurkhas) are chosen to settle an arrangement, often based on mutual apologies and forgiveness of the offences, sometimes on monetary compensation. What, first of all, chocked the population of the valley (including the “cobblers” themselves, and probably the Maoists) was the lack of respect of drunken boys for a highly respectable elderly man: the form of offence was in itself a matter of scandal since Sàrkãs are appointed for the castration of animals! For all those (Sàrkãs, Chhetris, but also Rais and Magars) who told me the story, the indignant treatment inflicted to the old man was one of the many unfortunate examples of the collapse of the natural hierarchies which took place between 2001 and 2006: an elderly notable was mistreated by young scoundrels, a man reputed for his sobriety and the dignity of his life was assaulted by drunkards, last but not least, a Chhetri, heir of the Ksatryas, and even worse an entire Chhetri village were ridiculed by “cobblers” who suddenly turned into “warriors.” With distance and hindsight, when I talked with all the protagonists five years later, the “Tihar night incident” was no more a matter of shame, glory, even resentment, just an embarrassment. Overnight, the natural order of things was upside down, as it happened so often during these years full of unbelievable events. Tihar night was slowly forgotten but the memory remains that the untouchables can stand up for themselves; this new reality impressed not only the Chhetris and the Brahmins but also the Magars and the Chamling Rais who, more than everyone, try to ensure the balance between communities of the valley will remain, as far as possible, unchanged in the future. 334 Pustak Ghimire After the Insurrection When the Maoist combatants left Khotang in 2006, intercommunal relations calmed down. The system of municipalities was not restored and the revolutionary “Gà-Ja-Sa” gave way to “triumvirates,” with one member from each major party (Nepali Congress, UML and Maoist), all Rais and Magars selected from among the former elected officials from the 1980s and 1990s. As before, the Dalits were not in a position to act as key figures in the VDCs where they were outweighed. Their notables were perceived as lacking the authority and also the manners necessary to settle disputes, and this task fell to the triumvirates. As for the “Gà-Ja-sa,” the Maoists never tried to impose Dalits in local “high-visibility” posts in Khotang. Some untouchables aired their opinion on the local Maoist party committee, an authority that was indeed of some importance, but their elderly notables preferred to keep a low profile. The few young Dalits from the village who joined the Peoples’ Army have not returned and I could get little information about their experience. The Dalits knew what they owed the Maoists, and that they had nothing to expect from Nepali Congress and the Communist Party (UML), both at national and local levels: though most villagers were this time unusually unostentatious about their political choices, it is generally admitted that most of the Dalits voted for the Maoist Party in the April 2008 general elections. It is certainly true for the younger generation who, in conversations, do not conceal their preference. As time went by, people noticed that, when Maoist guerillas were confined to camps under UN supervision, dozens of young people from the Young Communist League (YCL) were seen wandering around Khotang, most of them from unknown castes whose accent and general behavior betrayed their origins. Nobody was keen to offer them hospitality since they were suspected of being Dalits and of hiding their identity, but the notables who wanted to get well in with the Maoists, and the teachers who are not supposed to show any caste bias, felt obliged to do so. These young people, both very polite and very inquisitive, displayed a remarkable curiosity in the way villagers behaved with the Dalits. Once the social values inculcated by the Màobàdãs had been forgotten, they visited the offenders at home to teach them a moral lesson. There were very few offenders indeed, and as long as the Maoists had “eyes and ears” in the vicinity, everybody strove to be nice to the Dalits. With time, this has become routine practice. Thanks to this pedagogy, the most visible expressions of contempt have now disappeared, at least in Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 335 public conversations and attitudes. It has primarily left its mark on the language.13 Twenty years ago, outside their own caste, no one greeted an untouchable as “father,” “mother,” “uncle” or “aunt,” since it sounded deferent or familiar. To an old and respectable Dalit, the older generation said “eldest” (jeñhà) or “youngest” (kànchà). My generation greeted him as “elder brother” (dàju), his wife as “sister-in-law” (bhàujå) or “elder sister” (didã). It was not in itself a mark of contempt, since this salutation is rather impersonal. However, it attributed to the Dalits a permanent position of junior members within the village family. The inferiority of the Dalits’ status was made more evident by the demonstrations of respect required of them. When they addressed a married Brahmin-Chhetri, Rai or Magar, they had to call them “master” or “mistress” (mukhiyà or mukhinã), a salutation which is obsolete today in other communities. It reminded the Dalits that they remained, at least formally, dependants and clients. Moreover, whatever their age and social position, the Dalits were compelled to use the formal and respectful “you,” tapàŒ, when talking with members of other communities. In return, caste people, Rais, Newars and Magars, called them by the most informal “you,” tÐ, which in this case is more disdainful than affectionate. All in all, relations were like those between an adult and a child. However, since the 1980s, the “you,” timã, less contemptuous, has been gaining ground at the expense of tÐ. Determined to root out all traces of inequality, the Maoists sought to do away with the dual system of the formal “you” tapàŒ and informal “you” tÐ, which is humiliating when used by a dominated person and contemptuous when used by a dominant person. They tried replacing this “vestige of the past” with the reciprocal use of tapàŒ or timã, both egalitarian forms which they cherish. At the same time, the Dalits, encouraged by the Màobàdãs, had abandoned the formal tapàŒ and had begun to call the Brahmin-Chhetris, Magars and the Chamling Rais by the informal timã. These transgressions occurred in a climate of widespread suspicion: many Maoist fighters of Dalit stock, who hid their identity to impersonate Brahmin-Chhetris, betrayed themselves with their inappropriate familiarity, a baffling preference for the informal “you” 13 This aspect was discussed at an international symposium organized by Marie Lecomte-Tilouine and Anne de Sales (Authoritative Speech in the Himalayan Region, Paris, 25–26 November, 2011): Ghimire (Pustak): “Authority, Status and Caste Markers in Everyday Village Conversations: The Example of Eastern Nepal.” 336 Pustak Ghimire timã, and their ignorance of the subtle protocol that governs other castes and family communities. Felt as verbal aggression, the use of timã is now associated with caste fraud and identity theft perpetrated by the Dalits and with the intrusion of revolutionaries in the family’s privacy. The reciprocal form of respect, tapàŒ, which tended to be the normal form in inter-caste conversations, now prevails: equality is respected, courtesy is impeccable but distance is maximal...14 Access to the most private areas of the house is a more crucial question, especially for the Chamling Rais. I have already underlined the trauma caused by the intrusion of Màobàdãs when they were of Dalit origin. After the Màobàdã fighters’ departure from Khotang over a three- or four-year period, for no real reason but no doubt because they no longer wanted to throw open their doors to strangers of undetermined caste, as we will see, all the communities spread the word about transferring their cooking area to the corner of the veranda, outside the house. The Rais turned the sacred hearth where their ancestors reside into a place for worship alone, enclosed by a low wall and to which strangers no longer have access. A Chamling Rai notable, in charge of his clan ancestral worship explained to me: When the pàrñãko mànche (Maoists) ruled, we were obliged to allow strangers to enter our houses and come close to places forbidden to anybody who does not belong to our clan. As you know, the sacred hearth målculhà, the jar Mochàmà and the main pillar målkhambà are the places where our ancestors live, the place where we perform the rituals of our worship. We couldn’t do anything to oppose them and our heart was broken. We saw our sacred spaces desecrated and our tradition blatantly ignored by unwelcomed guests who were proud to ignore it! When the Party left, we knew that things would never be as before. But we did not want to close our doors to our friends, to members of other clans and families because to give our visitors the best possible welcome is a tradition we are all proud of, a part of our way of life. If we do not offer them a bowl of fermented finger millet beer (ek óabakà kodoko jƒó), or a cup of liqueur (ek kacaurà raksã), we would be regarded as inhospitable and thrifty. So we made a compromise: visitors and guests shall be welcome in the open-air kitchen. It is healthier because they are no longer exposed to the smoke from the kitchen. And our ancestors pitri can live in peace without being disturbed by unwelcome intruders. 14 On my last field trip, I noted that only very old and stubborn people still use tÐ when they address a Dalit. Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 337 The Brahmins-Chhetris share the same concern. Caste people worship their kulayàna (the deities of the clan) in a special place in the main room diyoghar that only the members of the same clan (excluding the married daughters) are allowed to approach. A Brahmin priest explained to me: I located the kitchen on the other side of veranda, a place where nobody has direct access since they have to go around the house. I put two benches and in the middle a long low table for the meal. The guests are invited here and here only. I have not yet sat on the same bench with an untouchable but, should I do it, this arrangement will not make anybody uncomfortable. Of course, my children do not care too much about sitting with an untouchable, but for me it is different: I am 71, I was raised with other ideas, and I no longer want to be embarrassed by all those who are demanding equality and quite rightly so. It looks cleaner, more civilized and less discriminatory. All in all, it is more convenient than ever. These arrangements did not irk the untouchables in the village who had never taken part in the sacrilegious intrusions led by the Màobàdãs, chiefly to avoid any reprisals but also because they were utterly foreign to the accepted rules governing village social life and they offended shared religious values. More generally, the Dalits of Khotang have never tried to force the door of those who will never say to them “make yourselves at home!” but they would like at least to enjoy some distant courtesy which is the normal pattern between members of different groups.15 One specific case of exclusion has fuelled the Dalits’ resentment. Whereas, despite the specificity of each worship, a shared form of sociability may emerge during celebrations such as Tihar or through invitations between neighbors to attend family events (weddings, funerals…), the Dalits are never welcome at these festivities, except for the Damàã “tailors,” when they are only called upon to play music. The Maoists banned this tradition of playing pan̂cai bàjà16 during wedding ceremonies and other propitiatory occasions or lavish celebrations where everybody from the villages could be invited, denouncing it as “feudal.” As long as they had direct control over the country, no problems arose because nobody felt like having fun at festivals. When they left Khotang in 2006, a step backwards was unimaginable. The untouchables timidly and hesitantly suggested they would like to be invited to festivities as guests, not as employees. Their request caused considerable embarrassment. For communal and religious celebrations, the local provisional authorities, who had to report back to the Maoists, felt obliged 15 16 Same attitude in Deurali: Lecomte-Tilouine ( 2010: 124) The five traditional musical instrument played by the tailors (Damàã). 338 Pustak Ghimire to make adjustments. Whereas the respected Dalit elders restricted themselves to a much appreciated discretion, more audacious youths caused some unease. As a Kàmã explained: “I want to eat with Brahmins no matter what, because in sharing their meals I myself become a Brahmin, or they become a Dalit like me: it is at the same table and under the same roof that we are really equal, that we all become similar….” The result was not long in coming and today Damàã musicians are no longer called upon for fear that their congeners might imagine that they too are invited. Stereo music is played instead! Even neighbors are invited less often to avoid giving the impression of excluding the untouchables: the major celebrations of the past tend to have become family parties held in the strictest privacy. To explain these restrictions, breaking with the tradition of sometimes extravagant ceremonies of the past, saving money can always be used as a valid excuse. The new protocol that governs commensality between the Dalits and other communities is still ambivalent, floundering, and uncertain. Offending attitudes are gradually disappearing, mainly because the Màobàdãs may return one day, but the discomfort is palpable; nobody knows how to behave and everyone fears a witness’s deprecatory glance. The untouchables, formerly objects of scorn, are now an embarrassment: the more “touchable” they are, the more “undesirable” they become. Though the issues regarding commensality are of primary importance for everybody, not all villagers are stubborn conservatives. Rural society has become a complex mixture of poorly educated farmers, teachers, unemployed former students, shopkeepers and expatriates who have returned from abroad. Younger people who have taken advantage of school care less about stereotypes and what people say. They all have different experiences and different points of view. The debate that has been brought out into the open is in itself a significant development. Note that virtually nobody tries to justify the discriminations the Dalits have been suffering as being a matter of principle. Most villagers agree that caste bias is an unpleasant legacy of the past which will be difficult to get rid of. In 2011, when I asked some teachers in Temma, now the leading group in the villages and the one which sets the tone for the debate, whether society has changed its stand vis-à-vis the Dalits, they admitted: We do not know how to bridge the gap. The traditional religious thinking, social practices, culture, lack of education and the fixed social rules of each clan combine to maintain the status quo. We should have philosophical debates and talk more about castes and humanity. We Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 339 should educate the people, but not as the Maoists did. They said they wanted to rehabilitate the Dalits, but in fact they merely pursued shortterm objectives: to earn their support and make them a showcase for a rupture in social relations. They acted quickly, swiftly, abruptly… and they failed. Moreover, the Maoists did not make it clear whether they wanted to introduce caste equality or to abolish the caste system altogether: to ban discriminations is one thing, to eradicate culture and religion by melting down the Brahmins, Chhetris, Dalits, Rais and Magars in the same communist pot is another! That said, the teachers I talked with were unable to agree on clear-cut solutions. Some of them who are associated with the “progressive wing” in the village (i.e. sympathizers of the Maoist and of the Communist Party UML) question both the “Brahmanist ideology” and the Kiranti religious tradition which tend to legitimate the discriminations. However, beyond an anticlerical (and probably anti-religious…) stance equally shared by some high caste and Chamling Rai teachers, they admit that they have little to propose in practical terms. When the new Constitution formally declares Nepal a secular State, will it change human relationships in the villages significantly? What is the point in forever blaming the Brahmins for having invented and legitimized the castes system when the Kirantis and the Magars were certainly not the last to assimilate the Brahmin ideology and, at least at local level, to maximize the benefits they could reap from it? Who were first to humiliate the Dalits, the Brahmin priests obsessed with purity, or the feudal “mukhiyàs,” Chhetris, Chamling Rais and Magars, who together wanted to exploit a cheap source of labor on their farms? The debate I attended was lively. Though each individual opinion revealed community and caste belonging, it was also tempered by the ideological preferences and party membership. Thus, among those who think that things shall change, there were as many opinions as speakers… Their “conservative” opponents had no shortage of arguments (not one of them is new…) in the heated village discussions. They said that it is a waste of time and a lost struggle to oppose religion. No improvement can be envisaged as long as the Dalits are associated with activities that are perceived by the other castes as repulsive: the “cobblers” manipulate rotten flesh of dead cows, the “blacksmiths” are associated with the forge and the furnace, the “tailors” extend their hand for money, with their sanài flutes, a gesture more or less consciously associated with the begging tradition. A teacher at Mattim High School urged the Dalits to give up their traditional crafts to become rice growers in order to obtain respectability. But he was told that craftsmen who moved ahead to become successful farmers (like the “cobblers” in Mattim 340 Pustak Ghimire and Temma two generations ago) reaped jealousy, not the respect of their neighbors… In short, the debate is flagging because the noble intentions of the speaker, by all means a willing soul, are hampered by “the others”: the Brahmins, who invented the caste system, the silently disapproving neighbors who discourage closer ties with the untouchables, or the Dalits themselves who, at least for some villagers, never do enough to break away from their image. From an outside point of view, such debates, even when well inspired, are hardly conclusive. It turns out that people of all castes and communities are not fully aware that the treatment reserved for the Dalits, a treatment nobody tries to justify, is not an aspect of the caste system which could be isolated and abolished on humanitarian grounds. That it is the most visible feature of a way of life, of a way of thinking which conveys multi-faceted biases, social preferences and social prejudices, all linked and melted in a general tendency towards inequality shared by all groups. In Nepal, and certainly in the villages, nobody (except maybe Maoist ideologues and former expatriates who have lived for a long time abroad) can simply imagine what a system without castes could be like and how it could work. The perception of the world, society, relations with the other are governed by tacit references to a caste and community system which impregnates everyone’s “self” because a villager perceives himself first as a member of a group, then as an individual. In the meantime, progress and improvements rely on permanent mutual, often minor, adjustments. For Dalits and non-Dalits, this is an uncomfortable situation indeed. The Wavering Aspirations of the Low Castes The low castes, which have little to expect from other communities, place more hope in the reforms that will be decided on in Kathmandu. Today, 49 Dalits have seats in the Constitutional Assembly (CA), 21 of them in the Maoist group. The “Caste-based Discrimination and Untouchability Act” passed in May 2011 which criminalizes discrimination both in public and private spheres was credited to the Maoists. While their elders keep a low profile, the young Dalits of Temma have recently recovered their voices, which had remained silent since 2006, as a leading local figure of the Maoist party reported with great satisfaction in 2011: they are outspoken and deliver clearly argued political speeches. But this politicized young generation does not fully identify with the Maoists: they are Dalits first and foremost. As a Damàã explained me: “We side with Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 341 the Maoists because they side with us. We know we will stand to gain in the future more with them than with the other parties. But it is give and take on both sides!” This realism draws on the lessons of the past. In the 1990s, the Communists UML were full of good intentions which became tangled up in the capital’s political wrangling. “We shall take advantage of the fear instilled by the Maoists, but we must first rely on our own resources,” the young Damàã concluded. Over the last ten years, as I have already underlined, the Dalits have turned out to be one of the most dynamic segments of village society. Only two blacksmiths, one cobbler, and three tailors were still involved in artisanal activities in their traditional form. The other tailors no longer go around to their customers’ houses, with their sewing machine on their shoulders. They work at home, waiting for cash payment for their services. In the new market economy, a client-supplier monetary relationship has replaced the former paternalistic links. Because they have not overinvested in their children’s education and the purchase of agricultural land, they have been able to rapidly convert to the most profitable activities: trade, rural services, and above all emigration. While the other communities wear themselves out competing over land and prestige, both relics of the past, the more astute Dalits head toward the future. Outward-looking Dalits think that money is the key to the caste problem, but they are few in number. The most enterprising ones leave the village, they migrate abroad or settle in the cities: one successful middleman who promotes the emigration of Dalits to the Middle East shares his time between the Gulf countries, Kathmandu where he owns an agency, a house and the place where his children go to the best schools, and the village where he recruits candidates for expatriation. But the rest stay behind: the less economically innovative they are, the more conservative their aspirations. Those who cannot imagine their life outside the familiar surroundings of their home village still look for recognition in a society which does not open its door easily. New forms of religiosity, deriving from a syncretistic and mystical form of Hinduism, which appeared in 1995, have proliferated since 2003 in and around Temma. The “Bhagawotãs,” a phenomenon that consists in girls and women claiming to be possessed by the Great Goddess øakti, have multiplied. Initially, this was to be found among the Chamling Rais before spreading to the Magars. At this stage, it seemed to reveal a desire to purify the indigenous worship of its now controversial aspects, such as blood sacrifices and alcohol consumption. In the context of Maoist 342 Pustak Ghimire insurgency, it might also be regarded as a women’s protest against male violence (alcoholism, domestic abuse, war...). These Bhagawotãs welcome to their oratories devotees of all origins, with no discrimination. Dalit women attended the rituals in the beginning as onlookers, then as active devotees. For the first time, worship was not confined to the narrow family, clan or community circles but opened to all believers, irrespective of sex, caste and origin. It was a break with an essential feature of village life, perhaps as decisive as the innovations the Maoists force upon them. The Màobàdã cadres, who observed that the Bhagawotãs, unlike the Brahmins-Chhetris and the traditionalist Rais, welcomed the Dalits into their chapels as they dispensed with caste hierarchies, treated these new cults with benign indifference (Ghimire 2008–2009: 126–127). The recent extension of the phenomenon to the untouchable castes displays distinctive features. It all started in 2007 with a “blacksmith” Bhagawotã, followed by another in 2008 and then four “tailor” Bhagawotã. Up until 2007 the goddesses were grouped together in the highlands. But eight of the last eleven deities who appeared between October 2007 and October 2008 were Sàrkã girls living at the bottom of the valley. As far as the standards of ritual purity are concerned, all “goddesses” can compete with the most scrupulous Brahmins. They abhor blood sacrifices and alcohol; their families are ostensibly vegetarian and teetotallers. One Damàã Bhagawotã was even more radical. She regarded herself as being cleaner and purer than all the high-caste women from whom she refused cooked food. For her, the touchable had become untouchable: “Bhagawotã who dwells in me does not allow me to eat out of my family circle, I eat only at home because only my children and my husband can cook for me,” she explained to me. In 2008, I went to give my regards to the last born of the Bhagawotãs, a “blacksmith” mother of a large family that nothing predisposed to embody the divine breath, as her jocular neighbors suggested. The goddess performs healing and divinatory activities for Rai, Magar and Chhetri female customers. After the last rites, while commensality prohibits accepting anything from an untouchable, the goddess’s husband, well aware of breaching a social principle, furtively put the vermilion tãkà on the foreheads of the attendants. It did not cause a scandal because the devotees, taken by surprise, were afraid of his formidable wife. When tea was served (a new transgression of the rules, since no drink can be accepted from an untouchable) everybody was on their guard and terribly Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 343 embarrassed, but only a couple of elderly Magars dared turn down the offer of tea. “Who are you to refuse what the great goddess Bhagawotã offers!” growled the incarnate deity who was on the alert for the slightest blunder. The Magars, terrified by the wrath of the goddess, fell over themselves apologizing and hastily swallowed their tea. As I was the first Brahmin to ever visit her, the goddess honored me with a private audience. I was rewarded with a long diatribe against those who despise the Dalits: “the Chhetris are hypocrites: they look down on us but they come to our village to drink alcohol secretly. The Rais are also contemptuous but I should admit I was recently invited to the communal meal of Jyàmire and allowed to sit beside the former mayor. The worst are the Magars of Kahule who never invite us to the communal meal or, worse, which relegate us to the sidelines, separated from the rest of society. They are really primitive (asavya), you know!” Angry at her neighbors, Bhagawotã did not have to complain about the Brahmins whom she had only ever met fleetingly. When I was walking back, a Chamling Rai, a leading figure in the Highlands, called me over. He was enraged and terrified. The news that I had accepted a drink and a Tãkà from the blacksmiths had, within half an hour, been all round the villages. “You have no idea of what you have done! Everything this so-called Bhagawotã does tends to break the rules. She is manipulative and you fell into the trap. Hardly will you have turned your back and her family will be advertising the fact that a very educated Brahmin came for lunch. Of course, it is not your problem, in a few weeks you will be abroad. We will have to endure that woman until the end of our days. You are irresponsible!” This reaction made me more cautious. The Sàrkãs, flattered by my interest in their goddesses, underlined the additional honor that these repeated epiphanies had earned their community. This has yet to be checked. Some Bhagawotãs opt for provocative if not transgressive behavior: a young Damàã goddess, upset at some joke, flared up and provoked a terrible scandal insulting a Chamling Rai shaman with some very foul language, which was unanimously considered to be unworthy of a divinity. The Chhetris remain unmoved by the religious efflorescence among their Sàrkã neighbors: “the Sàrkãs harp on at us about having to venerate their Bhagawotã. Do you honestly believe that a goddess can become incarnate among scavengers?” It is worth noting that the forever increasing number of Bhagawotãs of low castes do not question the castes system as such. When I returned to Temma in 2011, I was told that the Kàmã “goddess,” who had honored me 344 Pustak Ghimire with a private audience, had kicked out one of her daughters who had wanted to marry the Damàã boy she was in love with: such a marriage that is contrary to tradition might discredit her mother’s newly gained reputation! This was not the only example of the persistent biases and endogamy the low castes still suffer from. In 2009, a high school Sàrkã student and a Damàã girl, a former Màobàdã whole timer, who met at a Maoist rally, fell in love. The “tailor” girl moved to the boy’s parents’ house where she was not welcome. Since no religious ritual exists for an inter-caste union, it was not possible to recognize their partnership as a valid, legitimate marriage. Events took a more unpleasant turn when the Sàrkã clan brotherhood (dàju-bhài samåha) decided to downgrade and expel the entire family: among the Dalits as well as among the other communities, civil and social death sanctions any disregard for endogamy. Torn between his parents and the girl he loved, the Sàrkã boy vanished into thin air, leaving the situation to sort itself out. Betrayed by her lover, alone in a hostile village and family, the Damàã girl decided to face the situation. As I explained above, when the Maoist guerilla left the district, the Gà-Ja-Sa were officially dissolved even though the municipalities elected in 1997 were not re-established. The VDC has been run by a consensus between the local leaders of the coalition parties (Maoists, UML Communists and Nepali Congress) monitored by the Maoist Party headquarters in Diktel. So the girl decided to appeal to the judiciary triumvirate (“tãndalãya nyàya”)17 of Temma in charge of settling disputes and, in a moving display of words, asked the Maoist Party district committee to enlighten the triumvirate and public opinion on the arbitration to be rendered: “During the war, I almost died for you. I was not afraid to fight. I want to find the one I love. I want to be accepted as his wife.” By the miraculous act of the Màobàdãs’ omnipotence, a mutually acceptable compromise was found. The fugitive boy who was hiding in Kathmandu returned home and now lives with his wife in another village, far from his parents. The clan brotherhood ostensibly ignores the couple but the parents have been reintegrated into the clan. Everybody was able to save their face thanks to this compromise, which 17 This “triumvirate” is an informal body of three members, all notables or former elected officials from the 1990s, selected mainly amongst Rais and Magars, each representing one of the three parties of the coalition, who are in charge of the settlement of individual disputes based on a quasi-judicial form. They assumed the burden and filled the void left by the former Gurkhas who acted as umpires for decades in the villages. Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 345 fits in rather well with the atmosphere of that period of transition where consensus is sought and conflicts of principles buried with oblivion, even by the Maoists themselves. Conclusion The main conclusion to be drawn from this analysis is that the Dalit issue has not developed at a similar pace and in the same terms and conditions in Kathmandu or the bigger cities and in the remote mountains villages of eastern Nepal. In the plain, where the issue regarding disadvantaged castes presents its own specific features, the debate was launched early on by the Dalit organizations which formulated the terms and proposed solutions. In the upper valleys, the intense politicization of local society which developed in the 1990s took shape in the furrow of preexisting disputes between families or individuals of the Chamling Rai community who competed for local influence. The voice of the Janajàti nationalist movements was hardly heard in the villages before 2006. In this context, since the Indo-Nepalese, and even more so the occupational castes among them, had merely to position themselves in the wake of Rai (or Magar) local political leaders in the VDC where they still held sway, castes and ethnic issues were of secondary importance. This was even truer for the Dalit question: because it has not been formulated by the party immediately concerned, it has so far gone unnoticed by the other communities. Seen in this light, the Maoist People’s war did not bring politicization, but it gave an ideological content to preexisting divisions by “importing” into the villages the debates and rhetoric that have shaken urban intellectual circles for decades. The abruptness of the Maoists has not always been the best way of changing villagers’ minds, and indeed biases do remain, even though communities conceal them. However the outlook has radically changed. Before 2001, nobody in the village cared about the feelings of the untouchables, who were humiliated, unhappy and thirsty for social recognition. Now the familiar topics debated in Kathmandu, including the Dalit issue, are part of village political life. However, though some words and concepts have been taken from the rhetoric that ideologues cherish, the questions raised and the answers given in local society differ from those urban intellectuals are familiar with. The untouchables turn out to be diverse and divided. The younger generation is bold whereas the elders still fear backlash. All Dalits expect and demand “equality” and the “end of discriminations,” but this claim may conceal different realities. The more politicized youth stick to the 346 Pustak Ghimire Maoist analysis: no right will be definitively acquired as long as the caste system is not abolished and erased from mentalities. But few of them fully embrace the scathing indictment of the “Brahmanist ideology,” and more generally of Hinduism, since they have guessed that this kind of rhetoric sometimes masks the hostility of indigenous people (Rais and Magars especially) towards the very presence of the Indo-Nepalese population as a whole in a country that the Kirantis regard as theirs. Since they know they have little to gain if the Himalayan “tribal” people, who have never spared them, have the upper hand in public life in eastern Nepal, they are determined to work first for themselves. Moreover, it is not clear whether a majority of Dalits genuinely share the revolutionary vision of a casteless and classless society. As we have seen, for most Dalits, endogamy, though an essential part of the caste system, remains a basic social value. The few Dalits (mainly female), who choose to submit to the purity obligations specific to the Brahmins, expect to receive in return the consideration owed to the higher castes. In contrast to the Maoists’ attempts to abolish the caste system, they seek internal and individual promotion within it. It reveals an ongoing reference to Hindu values which are theirs after all. And what the newly enriched untouchables (a minority, though a significant one) aspire to is, of course, an end to all the indignity, but overall a recognition of individual success in the village hierarchy. The other communities are divided on this new question which they did not see coming. The religious conservatism of the Chamling Rais, of which we gave many examples, should not be minimized. The Janajàti nationalist rhetoric, which tries to revitalize “national” identities, conveys a “back to the roots” religious revivalism associated with a flavour of ethnic supremacism. Of course, the perspective of this revivalism is essentially anti-Brahmanist, yet the promotion of Dalits is certainly not at the core of ethnic organizations’ programs, though some tactical convergences could have occurred under the Maoist Party umbrella.18 However, the influence of nationalist issues and language on the villages’ political life is recent and indirect, and they are often met with mixed feelings by the Chamling Rais themselves: “One should not forget that all 18 I twice attended “Kirƒt Ràã Yàyokkhà” meetings, the first in Diktel in May 2007 and the second in Mahendranagar (Sunsari district) in March 2011. The speakers focused on the defense of their history, language, tradition and pilgrimages, and denounced “the atrocity of sacred thread bearer (tàgàdhàrãharåko atyàcàr).” Not a single word was said about the Dalits who seemingly must not expect better treatment than caste people. Maoists and Dalits: A Case Study in a Locality in Eastern Nepal 347 the ethnicist political organizations hold an ethnocentric opinion, and they don’t have the programs for those who are different from themselves. The Kirƒt Ràã Yàyokkhà does not give a damn about the Dalits’ problems and feelings” a Chamling Rai, former British Gurkha, admitted. But the fear their ancestors inspire in the living Chamling Rais counts more in explaining the reactions of those who were traumatized by the intrusions of untouchables. However, their religious conservatism is teetering, as suggested by the popularity of Hindu heterodoxy among them. 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