Planning your dream trip to Kerala, India? Well, I’ve got you. This two-week Kerala itinerary will ensure you visit the most wonderful places in Kerala, a.k.a. “God’s Own Country” – plus advice on how to travel between places, where to stay, what to do, where to eat and more.
Miles away from scam central Golden Triangle or the chaotic streets of Mumbai, Kerala is often referred to as “God’s Own Country,” and after visiting the state and meeting its people, I can confirm it is true.
Renowned for its backwaters and houseboats, lush hill stations, long stretches of untouched beaches, and ayurvedic treatments, Kerala is, hands down, my favourite state in India and this 2-week Kerala itinerary will show you why.
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Is two weeks enough to travel in Kerala?
If you want to experience the main things Kerala has to offer, two weeks is enough. But if you have the time, stay for longer. While Kerala looks like a small state on the map, it can take time to travel between destinations so the more days, the better.
Best way to travel around Kerala?
Kerala’s public transport system is far-reaching. As a die-hard budget backpacker, I think travelling by public bus and train is the best way to explore the state. This two-week Kerala itinerary only uses public transport, but of course, if you want to travel by private transfers to reduce travel time and add convenience, it’s possible.
5 things you might not know about Kerala:
- Kerala has the highest literacy rate in the country; a total of 96% of its citizens can read, compared with the national average of 77%.
- Kerala has the longest monsoon in the country, spanning from June to November.
- Many people in Kerala eat beef, unlike in many other states in India, where beef is prohibited due to the sacredness of the cow. If you’re in Kerala and eat meat, try Beef Ularthiyathu (Beef Fry).
- Kerala is probably the only state in India that pursues Ayurveda as the primary treatment modality for lots of diseases and disorders.
It’s the land of coconuts (no, really!). The name for the state, “Kerala”, is believed to be given after the coconut tree. In Malayalam, the language of Kerala, the word “Kera” means coconut tree and “Alam” means land. Wherever you look, whether it’s on the backwaters or beaches of Varkala, it’s hard to avoid the sight of coconut trees.
Two-Week Kerala Itinerary overview
To try and get the most out of your trip in Kerala I’ve tried to include a bit of everything in this two week Kerala itinerary: culture, hiking, national parks, beach days, and of course, delicious Keralan food. Here’s the outline:
- Day 1 and 2: Kochi (culture and food)
- Day 3 to 5: Munnar (nature and tea fields)
- Day 6 and 7: Kumily (national park and wild animal spotting)
- Day 8: Alleppey (backwaters)
- Day 9 and 10: Munroe Island (authentic backwaters life)
- Day 11 to Day 13: Varkala (beach days)
Day 1: Arrive in Fort Kochi
Welcome to Fort Kochi, the perfect place to relax after a flight or long train journey. It’s also where you’ll find the best coffee on your trip, so make the most of it! Let’s say you’ll be getting a lot of Nescafe in these two weeks.
Fort Kochi is steeped in history. Originally a fishing village, it developed into a significant trading port under various colonial powers, first the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and, of course, the British
Depending on when you arrive, spend day 1 relaxing and getting into the swing of Kerala. For lunch, go to Mary’s Kitchen for the best Keralan fish curry. I still dream of this place.
the famous kochi Kathakali show
After lunch, pop across the road to Kerala Kathakali Centre and book your ticket for the nightly Kathakali performance. It’s 500 INR for a ticket. If you’re not familiar with Kathakali, it’s a traditional form of Indian dance combining devotion, music, dance, drama, make up and costumes, retelling great stories of the past. And there’s no better place to see it than in Fort Kochi.
Between then and 5 pm, when the show starts, you have plenty of options. You can hang out in a coffee shop to escape the midday heat; I loved Loafers Corner Coffee purely for people-watching, Trouvaille for the baked treats, and Kochi Kapital Kafe purely for their coffee and cosy vibe.
Or if you’re not a coffee drinker like me and have some energy in you, head over to Jew Town. It’s a little further away from the main part of Fort Kochi, which was once home to Kochi’s thriving Jew population.
But whatever you do, remember to head back to the Kathakali Centre at around 5 pm to watch the performers apply their makeup. At 6 pm, the show begins, and I promise you’re in for a treat.
For dinner, you’ve got a few options, I recommend Spice Root Restaurant (for meat and fish eaters) and Coriander Veg and Vegan Restaurant (for veggies).
Day 2: Explore Fort Kochi
On Day 2, wake up early and go on a historical walking tour called Kochi Stories by Ajita. Be sure to book the tour via WhatsApp at least a day in advance. For 500 INR per person, you’ll be taken on a historical tour by Ajita, who was born and grew up in Fort Kochi. Her family were directly involved in rejuvenation projects when the British left. To avoid the heat of the day, the tour starts at 7 am, and the two hours fly by. You’ll start near the famous Chinese fishing nets, learn about the life of fishermen in Kochi, and then walk through the historical streets. Ajita tells the best anecdotes about the places she grew up and the changes the city has gone through in the past 50 years.
The tour will be finished around 9 am, the perfect time to grab breakfast at Anatha Bhavan Inn. Go for the masala dosa and chai.
Next up, be sure to book an authentic cooking class at Maria’s South Indian Cooking Class on Burger Street. Maria hosts cooking classes at her home and shows you how to cook five dishes. Pop her a WhatsApp message in advance as some days she hosts vegetarian classes (1000 INR pp) and non-vegetarian (1300 INR pp).
sunset beer at Forte Kochi Hotel
After the cooking class, you’ll likely be stuffed and want to chill. I’d recommend going for a big walk along Fort Kochi Walkway and grab a beer in the “beer garden” at the Forte Kochi Hotel. While Kerala isn’t a completely dry state, it’s quite difficult to find a place that serves alcohol. Forte Kochi Hotel is one of those few places. If you want to drink in your accommodation, you can alternatively buy alcohol at the government-run shop here.
In the evening, consider heading back to the Kathakali Centre to listen to some traditional Indian music or watch ancient, traditional martial arts called Kalaripayattu. You can find the show schedules here.
Where to stay in Fort Kochi?
Day 3: Munnar
On Day 3 of this two-week Kerala itinerary, time to head to the hills of Munnar, Kerala’s most famous hill station. The road from Kochi to Munnar is windy, but hella worth it. Read later: How to Get From Kochi to Munnar By Public Bus (KSRTC bus)
Munnar is great if you set your expectations. So, I’ll prepare you. If you’re expecting an untouched paradise of lush tea fields and no other traveller in sight, this isn’t your place. Because of its beauty, Munnar has become more popular over the years, and with popularity comes commercialisation.
To experience the best of Munnar, stay outside the town – at K Mansion for 2 nights. I’m talking comfy beds and monkeys entertaining you in the trees while you sip a coffee during your FREE morning breakfast.
You’ll likely arrive in Munnar in mid-afternoon, so take this time to rest. Save your energy for the long day of hiking tomorrow.
Day 4: Hiking in Munnar
As I mentioned, one of the frustrating things about Munnar is that you cannot hike independently; you must book a guided tour.
It’s all good because I can recommend the full-day Lakshmi Hills with Munnar Great Think Adventures. For 1400 INR, the tour includes a hostel pick-up, a traditional breakfast on the peak, a wonderful and informative guide, and a vegetarian thali at the end of the hike. Our guide, Philip, was so informative. We often stopped where he explained the different flora and fauna, animal markings, and how the tea is processed.
All in all, it was an amazing day and the best way to explore Munnar authentically.
Day 5: Cloud Farm Camping in Munnar
If you’re like me and love a bit of adventure, go to Cloud Farm Munnar. Although I didn’t get the chance to stay here, I was recommended this place after I left. I have since recommended it to a few backpackers heading to Munnar, and the feedback is that “it’s amazing!” For trekking, camping plus breakfast and dinner, it’s 2,500 INR per person. To reserve, message them via WhatsApp.
Day 6: Munnar to Thekkady by public bus
No two-week Kerala itinerary would be complete without a national park thrown in. Next stop: Thekkady a.k.a. Periyar National Park.
Head back down from Cloud Farm to Munnar Bus Stand and ask for the bus to Thekkady, the closest town to Periyar National Park. 5hrs and many windy turns later, you’ll arrive at your guesthouse in Thekkady. If you’re on a budget, stay at Thekkady Homestay or Jungle Palace Homestay.
Side note: I didn’t actually visit Thekkady properly (only passed through) as I decided to travel even further afield to Kodaikanal. Two friends chose Periyar National Park as their next destination and loved their experience. They even saw elephants in the wild so this is why I’m including it in the itinerary.
Book your TREK in advance
Once you arrive in Thekkady, go to the Kerala Forest Department and book the trekking tour in Periyar National Park for the next day. The tour costs 1400 INR for four people and includes an informative guide from the indigenous tribe that lives in the national park.
For dinner, head to Tusker’s Cafe for traditional Keralan thali.
Day 7: Periyar National Park
Wake up early and spend the day trekking with the guide through Periyar National Park. The park has herds of elephants, bonnet monkeys, nilgai (Indian antelopes), langurs, porcupines, sloth bears, tigers, leopards, and deer. So cross your fingers that you can see something!
Be sure to wear good shoes and long trousers. You’ll be given a decent lunchbox, fruit, and water, but you should also bring extra water just in case.
For a late lunch/dinner, wind down at Ebony’s Cafe.
Day 8: Kumily to Allepey via Kottayam
A big travel day! This two-week Kerala itinerary would really be doing you a disservice if it didn’t include a stop in Alleppey, Kerala’s most famous backwaters destination.
how to travel from thekkady to alleppey
Start early and take the KSRTC public bus from Kumily Bus Stand to Kottayam, a city linked with Alleppey via a complex network of rivers, canals and lakes.
To reach Kottayam by public bus, it’ll take around 4 hours, and the roads are windy! Make sure you get a window seat, as the views are stunning. The photo below is a blurry snapshot of a video I took on the bus from Kumily to Kottayam, but I hope it gives you an idea of the views to look forward to.
Once you arrive in Kottayam, you’ll be dropped at Kottayam bus station. From there, you can walk 20 minutes or catch a 5-minute tuk tuk to Kodimatha Boat Jetty to catch the government backwaters boat to Alleppey, also known as Alappuzha.
the kottayam - Alappuzha government boat
The Kottayam – Alleppey Government boat is the perfect way to see the backwaters without having to pay for an overpriced tour. You don’t need to book in advance, just turn up to the jetty 20-30 minutes before the departure time.
The boat time are as follows:
Kottayam to Alappuzha (Alleppey) 🛥️ 6:15 AM 11:30 AM 1:00 PM 3:30 PM 5:15 PM
Alappuzha (Alleppey) to Kottayam 🛥️ 7:30 AM 9:30 AM 11:30 AM 2:30PM 5:15PM
Where to stay in Alleppey?
Day 9: Morning in Alleppey and train to munroe island
The best way to see more of Alleppey’s backwaters is on a sunrise kayak tour with Oscar Cruises. The 5 a.m. wake-up will be worth it. The tour runs from around 5.45 a.m. to around 8 a.m., and you might even have the opportunity to try toddy, Kerala’s home-brewed coconut beverage.
How to get from Alleppey to Munroe Island?
After the tour, grab a delicious malasa dosa from Shri Balaji Tea Stall and then catch the 1 pm train from Alleppey Railway Station to Munroe Island.
Every day (except Sunday), the Alappuzha–Kollam Express stops in Munroe Island. You can double-check train times through this app. For short trains in Kerala, you don’t need to book in advance and can buy a ticket from the ticket counter at the station.
Munroe Island is a real hidden gem of Kerala and a destination I couldn’t miss off this two week Kerala itinerary.
If you’re a backpacker, there’s only one place really to stay: Santa Maria Hostel Munroe Island. For 500 INR a night, it’s really a steal. The beds are not the comfiest, but the vibe is so friendly and social. And the best thing? It’s located right on the water, so you can observe backwater life from the comfort of a hammock. If you’re looking for a bougie accommodation, try Munroe Vision Panakkattu Homestay.
Day 10: Explore Munroe Island
One of the best things to do in Munroe Island is cycle a 5km loop around the island (yep, it’s that small!) and just observe local life.
In the evening, rent a kayak from ASR boating and go for a sunset kayak through the mangroves. On your way home, remember to stop by the toddy shop to try Keralans’ authentic homebrewed alcoholic beverage, Toddy.
I loved Munroe Island so much that I dedicated an entire article to it, so read this later: a backpackers guide to Munroe Island.
Day 11: Munroe Island to Varkala
On Day 11 of this two-week Kerala itinerary, time to wave goodbye to the dreamy backwaters life of Munroe Islan. And hello to yogi-haven, Varkala.
How to get from Alleppey to Munroe Island?
The trains from Munroe Island are limited to Varkala, so its worth waking up early, and catching the 7.53 am from Munroturuttu Station to Varkala. If you’re not an early bird, you can catch a later train to Kollam at 9.13 am or 2.45 pm and from there jump on a public bus to Varkala, or a taxi if if your budget allows. You can check the train times on this app: Where’s My Train? Remember, for the short trains in Kerala (and India in general), you can turn up at the station and buy a ticket at the counter; no need to reserve in advance.
best hostel in varkala for backpackers
In Varkala, the best hostels are Hostel Exp and the Barefoot Varkala. Both are incredibly social and full of nice travellers looking for a good time (but not too party party!)
On your first day in Varkala, I’d say hit the beach. Sure, the beach at the Cliff is nice, but try walking further along to Thiruvambadi Beach (also known more locally as Black Sand Beach); it’s a lot quieter. If you can muster up the energy, continue further past Odayam Juma Masjid Edava along, the coastal path that leads all the way from the Cliff to Kappil Beach. But in all honesty, I tried to do this walk at midday when it was way too hot, so consider leaving as early as possible (or save the walk for the next day).
sunsets in varkala
In the evening, after a dreamy day at the beach, I’d recommend grabbing a sunset beer at one of the restaurants at the Cliff. I recommend Little Tibet.
As I mentioned earlier in the article, alcohol isn’t exactly prohibited in Kerala. But it’s a lot more restricted than in Goa, and only sold in special government shops and a select few restaurants or hotels. In Varkala, quite a few of the restaurants have a license. But rather than keeping your bottle of beer on the table, they’ll pour it into ceramic mugs. Oh, and they often refer to it as “holy water” on the menu.
For dinner, if you want to try real Keralan cuisine, there’s no better place to go in Kerala than Thiramala Homefoods. Lots of restaurants on the Cliff serve the same-ish overpriced cuisine, but this home-cooked South Indian restaurant is a gem.
Day 12: Explore Varkala
On Day 12 in Varkala, wake up early and go back to Black Sand Beach and watch the fishermen pull in their nets. Then head to Aum Cafe for the best flat white in Kerala. For breakfast, I’d recommend stopping by Juicy Cafe for a 50 INR (€0.50) masala dosa and chai, or even the famous 40 INR egg curry and parotta. I always started my day at this place; it has my heart.
Short day trip from Varkala
For the rest of the day I’d recommend renting a scooter for 400 INR, and go exploring. A group of 4 of us rented two scooters from our hostel, Hostel Exp, and drove 14km south to Anjuthengu Fort, a fort constructed by the British East India Company in the 17th century. It’s free to enter, and the Keralan coastal police who were keeping an eye on the fort were so welcoming.
Varkala Golden Temple Island
Afterwards, take a boat trip to visit Shiva Parvati Vishnu Temple on Ponnumthurutha, a.k.a Golden Island. We paid 1500 rupees between the four of us (which I think you can definitely bargain down), and this included a 1.5-hour tour of the mangroves, a stop on Golden Island and swimming time. The temple was closed when we reached there around 2 pm, but anyhows, you need to be Hindu to enter. Wondering why it’s called Golden Island? Legends say that the queens of the Travancore Royal Family used to hide their cache of gold and ornaments on the island.
For a traditional Keralan fish thali, I strongly recommend Panayilkadavu Restaurant, which is located right next to the water. I think this was my favourite meal in all of Kerala. If you don’t want to pay for the boat tour, I’d definitely recommend driving out to just visit this restaurant. Lunch is served between 12-3pm so be sure to come between those times. It was 160 INR for unlimited fish thali.
Day 13: Beach Day in Varkala
Time to finish off this two-week Kerala itinerary with a bit of yoga and ayurvedic treatment.
If you’re a yogi or even fancy trying your hand at yoga, there are tons of drop-in yoga classes you can take in Varkala. Most 1.5-hour drop-in classes cost around 400 – 500 INR. It can seem impossible to pick which one is good without any recommendations. I tried and tested a few drop-in classes in different studios, and I’d recommend Lumuma and Devvrat Yoga Sangha.
After a morning yoga practice, InDa Cafe is a relaxing breakfast spot serving unlimited coffee or tea. Spend the rest of your day at the beach, or go for an Ayurvedic massage at Ayushi Ayurvedic Retreat.
For your final dinner in Varkala, I recommend True Thomas or Cafe Mohans.
Day 14: Bye for Now kerala
Whether you’re heading South to fly out of Thiruvananthapuram International Airport or North out of Cochin International Airport, or even somewhere else in India, I hope you reflect on the last two weeks in Gods Own Country with so many new memories.
a packed two-week kerala itinerary
This two-week Kerala itinerary was jam packed so you can get the most out of the best state in India. But if you have more time, naturally take your time. For most of the accommodation I mentioned, you don’t need to reserve weeks in advance. You can take it on a day by day basis. So if you have the flexibility, take your time and decide if you want to spend more days in a place once you arrive there.
If you have any questions about this two-week Kerala itinerary or travelling in India in general, don’t hesitate to reach out to me!
