Discovering the Azores: a 7-Day Experience in São Miguel
Not too long ago, even the most savvy and experienced travellers would have had trouble in locating the Azores islands on a map. Thankfully, the world is waking up and is starting to acknowledge the wonders these nine volcanic islands majestically rising in the mid-Atlantic have to offer.
How I got to the exact point of choosing Azores as my next destination remains a bit of a mystery to me. It probably happened because I once heard a friend of a friend sharing their wonderful experiences about their last trip to these in-the-middle-of-nowhere islands. Or maybe it was a post of a stunning landscape I found while scrolling down through the many worldwide travel accounts I follow on Instagram. Or quite presumably, being Portugal my home country’s beloved neighbour triggered me to explore the Azores first-hand myself. Whatever the reason, craving for volcanic flourished lands, let’s-get-lost vibes, and tons of fresh air in my lungs, I booked my plane tickets, prepared my backpack and got ready for my next solo adventure.
The Azores archipelago and its islands
Azores (in Portuguese Açores) is an autonomous region of Portugal situated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Consisting of nine islands, the Azores archipelago is divided into three groups: the eastern (São Miguel and Santa Maria islands), the central (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico and Faial islands), and the western (Flores and Corvo islands).
While all the islands are generally characterised by breathtaking landscapes, picturesque fishing villages and green paths riddled with colourful hydrangeas, each of the islands have their particular charm. São Miguel, which is the main and largest island, has basically anything a nature seeker could ask for, as well as unique lake-filled calderas and thermal waters, and the Gorreana tea plantation. Pico is home to the Mt. Pico stratovolcano, 2,351m high and the highest point in Portugal. In Terceira, you can find Angra do Heroismo, Unesco World Heritage village. It’s the Azores’ oldest city, with a formidable 16th-century fortress and a pristine Renaissance old town. São Jorge is considered a hiker’s daydream with its innumerable treks and nature wandering possibilities, as well as giving you the chance for multiple whale watching activities, same as Faial island. Flores is the westernmost point of Europe, and it’s often referred to as a real-life Jurassic Park praised for its beauty even among Azoreans.
After doing some research into the nine islands, I decided to stay solely in São Miguel and enjoy the marvels of the main island. Why? First, if you are travelling for around a week, São Miguel has the perfect variety in landscapes, hikes, natural spots and activities to keep you busy for that amount of time. Furthermore, if you want to move to another island you’ll have to do so by plane or through a long ferry ride. Whatever the option, the trip will require some valuable time that I rather spend enjoying São Miguel.
My advice: Figure out and prioritize what’s important for you to see and do from all the incredible varied things in Azores. Then you can make a better decision on where it’s worth for you going. But above all, go with the flow. Wherever you end up in that hidden and astonishing archipelago you’ll have the time of your life.
Staying and moving around São Miguel
Once I finally made up my mind and decided to spend the seven days in São Miguel, next decision was to check where to sleep and how feasible it was to move around the island. Luckily, the island is big enough to contain multiple places to enjoy and activities to do, but relatively small to go across its entire surface by car in a few hours. In my case, and what everyone I met during my trip did, was to find a nice fixed spot and accommodation and just travel around. In most of the cases (and what I strongly recommend) that was Ponta Delgada, the island’s capital. The airport is located within a few minutes and the city is strategically located in the South almost-in-the-middle part of the island.
There are different ways of moving around:
- Best option would be to rent a car, basically everyone going to the Azores does that. Whether you are the one renting the car or looking for a lift, you’ll easily find fellow travellers with the same purpose that you can team up with. Carpooling is one of the best options in this case. I did that three out of the seven days I stayed in São Miguel.
- Not ready for a car? No worries, then rent a quad. You’ll few times feel such a feeling of freedom while you keep wandering through the roads and forests of the island. It’s cheaper than the car and perfect if you’re travelling solo. You can also easily pair up with another traveller and discover the island together. The downsides are that you’ll get slightly wet if it rains and that they’re less stable than a car, but the advantages are that quads are perfect off-roads and you’ll save some euros compared to renting a car. I drove a quad for two days and it was purely amazing!
- You can always get a taxi, but I wouldn’t advise you to do that, only in the case of traveling from and to the airport. Taxis are the most expensive transport and not such a good price deal if you constantly use it for moving around the island.
- You can take the public bus, although it’s quite cheap the problem is that they aren’t so reliable when it comes to their schedule, and there are only a few running throughout the day. This of course reduces your flexibility for moving around and you’ll be too dependent on the time they reach each of the stops. However, I also travelled by bus during the last day of my stay in and I had no problem whatsoever.
Regarding accommodation, I stayed in what is by far the best hostel I’ve ever been to (and trust me, I’ve been in many). You know when you walk into a place and you immediately feel like home, like you are just in the place you’re supposed to be? Well, that’s what Hostel Procyon is all about. It’s not only about the picturesque and adorable facilities or the most delicious delicately prepared breakfast I’ve tasted. It’s about the fantastic owners, Mafalda and Filipe, who make sure everyone gets the best and most personal and memorable experience (thanks again guys, I’m looking forward to meeting you soon here in the Netherlands). A must-go-experience-enjoy, especially for solo travellers, since the cosy and social vibes of the dorm and the entire hostel will assure that you keep meeting great fellow travellers and build your own family back in Ponta Delgada.
A 7-day itinerary in paradise
São Miguel’s airport will be your arrival point in the Azores, probably with transfer in one of the Portuguese mainland’s cities. In my case, I had to change planes in Lisbon so I took that opportunity and spent the last weekend of my trip in that charming city. For marking São Miguel’s main natural attractions off your bucket list you’ll need around four days, then you can use a few more for hiking and other activities such as surfing, whale watching or simply chilling at the beach.
Day 1: Lagoa das Furnas, Furnas, Pico do Ferro and A Arruda pineapple plantation
First day in São Miguel after my late arrival the night before. After reaching the lovely and carefully prepared breakfast, I sat down to enjoy two typical Azorean mouthwatering delicatessen: queijo fresco (fresh cheese) together with bolo lêvedo (sweet muffin bread), while starting to plan what I’d do that day.
As a natural born planner, I was slightly nervous. There I was, sitting down for breakfast figuring out what would be the best way to spend my day and waiting to, hopefully, find someone who I could join by car. Just a few minutes later I got the chance to meet and start a conversation with Lucia, one of my dormmates who was also traveling solo and who joined a car ride throughout the island the day before with a German couple. So did I join the ride!
We first went to Lagoa das Furnas (Furnas lake), where we walked around the lake while enjoying some sunshine. This place reminded me of Waiotapu in New Zealand, because of its thermal spots and lake-filled calderas, where people cook food naturally (the most known dish is the cozido das caldeiras, stew with a combination of meat and vegetables cooked in the caldera). Probably a bit of a touristy trap, but we also ended up having a tasteful cozido, because, why not? Make sure you enjoy the dish while drinking a refreshing bottle of Kima Maracuja, typical Azorean soda with a taste of passion fruit. After our delicious meal, we departed to Pico do Ferro, where we had a wonderful view of Lagoa das Furnas.
Once the afternoon was reaching its end and the nature sightseeing was over, on the way back we stopped at the pineapple plantation of A Arruda, one of the most important Azorean pineapple plantations and open to the public. Totally worth seeing how the business works and getting a first-hand view of the greenhouses full of tiny pineapples. Azorean pineapples are unique in the world, being sweeter and smaller than other pineapples and considered of better quality. As Azoreans say “it’s all about the quality, not the quantity”. Visiting one of its plantation is a must-do experience if you visit the Azores. Make sure you try the licor de ananas (pineapple liqueur)!
Day 2: Vila Franca do Campo (Ilhéu da Vila Franca), Lagoa do Fogo, Caldeira Velha, Salto do Cabrito, Vale das Lombadas and Lagoa do Congro
As we had such a great time, Lucia and I decided to travel together for a couple of days more until it was time for her to come back home. And what can be better than two people driving around a beautiful and mountainous island by a kick-ass quad? A quad is, not only a better price deal for two people sharing its costs, but also perfect for wandering off-roads and discovering forests and hidden landscapes, giving you a feeling of freedom that cannot be put into words.
Departing from our hostel in Ponta Delgada, we followed the coastline towards the East until we reached Vila Franca do Campo, where we stopped for a quick morning coffee and for a walk around the town. Vila Franca do Campo was back in the days the largest and administrative capital city of the island. However, in 1522 a violent earthquake hit the area of Vila Franca do Campo, destroying the town and killing around 5,000 people. Because of this destruction, the capital of São Miguel was transferred to Ponta Delgada. Make sure you place a visit to this town and get a taste of its streets. Furthermore, you can access Ilhéu da Vila Franca from here or can have a look at it from the distance (as we did). Ilhéu da Vila Franca is a tiny islet on the north side of the town. Its semicircle shape provides a hidden and covered internal beach surrounded by nature. It’s considered a top diving destination. You have to take a ferry to get there, and since we weren’t planning to scuba dive or alike, we figured we should use the time visiting something else and save that money and time for a different beach location.
We then moved to our next stop: Lagoa do Fogo (lake of fire). I’d strongly advise you to have a fully working GPS since sometimes the traffic signs for certain places on the island are not so visibly placed (or placed at all). We enjoyed breathtaking views of the lake from a couple of miradouros (viewpoints). In the second viewpoint (when following the road from South to North) you can access a hiking path that leads to the bottom of the lake. Make sure you prepare for this hiking and do it when it’s not so sunny since it can get quite hot and tiring due to the inclination of the mountain. Once you reach the bottom, you can have beautiful views and enjoy some chilling moments at the beach (and mentally prepare for the subsequent ascent).
Following the same road towards the North, you can stop at Caldeira Velha (old caldera), a thermal area with a big waterfall for some relaxation moments. A bit more towards the North, you can also find Salto do Cabrito (kid’s jump), a beautiful waterfall with a hidden cave behind it that you can access through a set of stairs.
From there we went seeking a hidden and local lake, Lagoa do Congro. Turns out, with no many signs to follow or people to ask to, Lucia and I found ourselves driving for a couple of hours inside the island, surrounded by infinite km of pure green, mountains and with the unique companion of cows. Calming this inner we-are-so-lost feeling, the landscape and the experience itself was surreal. On the way back, you can again follow the coastline, and enjoy many picturesque fishing villages covered by the light of the sunset.
Day 3: Povoaçao, Serra da Tronqueira, Pico Bartolomeu, Miradouro da Serra da Tronqueira, Miradouro do Pico Bartolomeu, Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada, Farol da Ponta do Arnel, Nordeste and Ponta da Maia
Third day in this beautiful island, and second day wandering through it with the quad, and it’s been beyond amazing. Starting early in the morning, Lucia and I followed the coast towards the East and had our first stop in the town of Povoaçao, where we had the chance to walk around the city and have a revitalizing espresso.
Our plan for the rest of the day was to literally get lost in the East side of São Miguel (being an island we’d reach somewhere at some point), and just enjoy the freedom and discover whatever the island had to offer. And we managed that quite well. We kept driving the quad through different roads and randomly chose the direction on multiple intersections by pure gut feeling.
We drove inside Serra da Tronqueira, a beautiful and protected natural reserve, where you immerse in forest and pure nature as far as the eye can see. Taking routes we didn’t know where they were leading to, we found ourselves crossing the heart of the area of Tronqueira. After two hours of driving the quad through mountains and forests and encountering (literally speaking) two cars on our way, we found the Miradouro da Serra da Tronqueira. Stunning and peaceful viewpoint located on a high spot in the middle of a valley surrounded by mountains. A must-visit. This place is not so touristic as it’s quite hard to find and reach due to the need for moving off-roads (a quad is perfect for that). Together with the freedom driving a quad provides, the entire experience of reaching the area, driving through forests with the unique companion of flora and fauna, and finding yourself in a rare and privileged natural scene, was without a doubt the best one of the entire trip.
Afterwards, we visited Pico Bartolomeu and its miradouro for more stunning natural landscapes. Leaving the area of Tronqueira we drove to Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada and Ponta do Arnel with its beautiful farol (lighthouse). If you follow the walking path down the lighthouse you can encounter a set of picturesque fishermen houses and fishing boats. You can have a rest at the little harbour and enjoy the smell and fresh breeze of the ocean (we had a relaxing and energizing power nap there). Afterwards, we stopped briefly at the town of Nordeste to walk down its streets and we continued the trip to Maia, where we had a session of sunbathing and relaxation as the end of this wonderful, revitalizing and liberating full-of-activities day in São Miguel!
Day 4: Monte Palace, Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Miradouro da Vista do Rei, Miradouro da Cerrado das Freiras, Lagoa do Canario, Miradouro da Boca do Inferno and Rua dos Valles Negros), Mosteiros and Ponta de Ferraria & Poça da Dona Beija at night
During this fourth day, as Lucia was already heading home, I had in mind to keep discovering more parts of the island on my own. However, during breakfast I started to chat with two other dormmates at the hostel (two portuguese guys, João and Filipe), who had rented a car and invited me to join the ride. Again, another spontaneous plan with amazing people!
The plan for the day was to discover Lagoa das Sete Cidades (lake of the seven cities), considered one of the seven wonders of Portugal and one of the main attractions of São Miguel (and Azores in general). It showcases the Lagoa Azul (blue lake) and Lagoa Verde (green lake). Around that area, you can find multiple stops to enjoy different views of the lakes and their surroundings.
The first stop was Miradouro da Vista do Rei, which has stunning top-views of Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde and the contrasts between their respective blue and green waters. Next to it, you can find Monte Palace, an abandoned hotel that is nowadays completely decrepit. You can wander through what was long time ago a high-class hotel, and that has now transformed into the perfect scene for ghost hunters and creepy phantasmagorical adventures. Quite an experience. If you reach one of the old rooms and their balconies, as well as the rooftop area, you have stunning views of the lake without the hassle of touristic crowds.
From the hotel, we then drove to Miradouro da Cerrado das Freiras for more views of the lakes from a different angle and from there we aimed to find the gorgeous spot that has become quite representative of any promotion cover picture from Azores: Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. Turns out that finding it is not as easy as it seems and for us it became quite an odyssey. To reach this viewpoint, you have to enter Lagoa do Canario and keep walking through the woods. I cannot put into words how beautiful it is. Unfortunately, its beauty is directly proportional to how touristic it is. I’d hence advise you to go early in the morning to get a great shot with no people around. Moreover, if you keep walking on the left side you’ll also find some hills that have amazing views of the lakes.
After taking a break and having collected a considerable number of pictures, we decided to keep moving and followed Rua dos Valles Negros. This road goes downhill and crosses in between Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde. Once we reached the bottom of the area of the lakes, we stopped to enjoy some sunshine and a well-deserved rest.
From there it was time to move towards the West coast and more specifically to the magnificent natural pools that can be found in that area. First, we reached Mosteiros, where you can find natural rock cavities that resemble mermaid pools, to afterwards go to Ponta Ferraira. In the latter, you can find a really interesting natural swimming pool where the water from the ocean is constantly going in and out, providing an exciting mixture of thermal and cold water freshly brought by the ocean waves. The never stopping water makes it an extremely fun experience, but be careful and hold on to the ropes available, as otherwise you can easily and quite fiercely get drawn to the ocean. It’s a super fun experience, for real!
After this amazing day, we got back to the hostel for joining the crew to an excursion to Furnas and Poça da Dona Beija. In these outdoor thermal pools, we enjoyed a warm bath and really relaxing moments under the moonlight.
Day 5: Miradouro do Pico dos Bodes, Sanginho (Salto do Prego and Salto do Cagarrão), Serra da Tronqueira and Lagoa de São Brás
During this day, it was time for one of the multiple hike trails that you can find around the island. In our case, we opted for the Ribeira do Faial da Terra, located in Sanginho.
On our way there we stopped at Miradouro do Pico das Bodes for a pleasant view of the Southeast Coast of São Miguel. From there we drove to Sanginho to start the hike. This hike is considered of medium difficulty and the distance to be hiked is around 4.5 km back and forth to the first stop (the Salto do Prego waterfall), and 3 to 4 km extra if you keep walking until the second waterfall, the beautiful Salto do Cagarrão. In our case, we reached both waterfalls, and taking some time to enjoy swimming in their waters and having a well-deserved lunch and power nap, it took us around 5 hours and a half to head back to Sanginho.
When we finished our hike, we drove to the natural reserve of Tronqueira, which I had wandered around by quad during my third day on the island. To be honest the experience of going through its innumerable forests by car was not comparable with doing so with the quad and the feeling of freedom it provides. Again, really consider renting a quad for enjoying the island at least for a day. On the way back, we had a quick stop at Lagoa de São Bras, which basically meant: all the lakes of the São Miguel island visited!
After this 2-day travelling experience, it was time to say bye to my two great travel buddies João and Filipe. Thanks meninos, so happy that I had the luck to cross paths with these wonderful humans. And thanks again for adopting me in your road trip and discovery of the island, you made it beyond wonderful! Special thanks to João for the creation and addition of this superb video, make sure you guys follow his youtube channel for more splendid video creations.
Day 6: Água de Alto and Lagoa do Fogo
Being this my last full-day in São Miguel, and after being socialising and joining fellow travellers for several trips, I craved for some me-time and for exploring some other parts of the island on my own. With all the famous and impressive natural attractions marked off my bucket list, I opted for Água de Alto, which is close to Ponta Delgada and is easily reachable by public bus, and that gave me the opportunity to combine nature hiking and some relaxation and sunbathing at the beach.
The Praia — Lagoa do Fogo hike trail starts really close to the bus stop and will take you around 4 hours, giving you the chance to enjoy beautiful views of Lagoa do Fogo from the other side of the miradouro visited during my second day (and the touristic spot). The views are beyond spectacular. Once you finish the trail and you’ve had your dose of nature and have filled your lungs with tons of fresh air, you can walk down the road and you’ll shortly reach the beach. Here you can finally enjoy some tanning and relaxation after so many days of wandering and discovering natural wonders around the island. We all deserve that.
Day 7: Ponta Delgada and São Roque
I saved Ponta Delgada for my last day in São Miguel and got to know its streets and buildings in around one hour and a half, which still left me enough time enjoy some water and tanning. Ponta Delgada has some pools made on rock, which you can easily reach nearby the city centre. However, since I had more than enough time before leaving, I found myself following the coastline towards the East and enjoying a peaceful walk and amazing views of the ocean. You can reach the first town and beach of São Roque within 40 minutes of walking. After chilling at the beach, you can easily come back by bus (make sure you check the bus schedules beforehand, as they don’t pass often and they have specific schedules for each of the stops).
I try to find words for describing how amazing this trip has been but I barely manage. The breathtaking scenery and hidden natural gems. The delight, laughs and moments shared with wonderful people from all over the world, who were lucky enough to be at the same place, at the same time. All together to make it a beyond memorable experience. To this day, I close my eyes and I can still clearly see the mountainous landscapes, smell the ocean breeze from the coast, feel the touch of the endless green nature, hear in the distance no other sound but the wind and the birds singing alone a wonderful symphony, and savour the Portuguese delights in my palate.
Obrigada Açores, you’ve been so good to me!
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This post was originally published on my travel blog Wandering Serendipity.
