Custodians Of Culinary Traditions: Exploring India’s Pre-Independence Eateries
These eateries continue to serve dishes that have stood the test of time, offering a taste of authenticity that is reminiscent of our past
India’s cultural landscape has undergone a tremendous change since we gained Independence in 1947, weaving diverse traditions into our syncretic lives. The same is true for our culinary history where many pre-independence eateries offer not just delectable treats but also a glimpse into the past. These charming establishments, some dating back a century, continue to serve as living embodiments of history, preserving the flavours of a bygone era.
United Coffee House, Delhi
A view of United Coffee House. Picture: Instagram/UnitedCoffeeHouse
Delhi’s Connaught Place has seen many restaurants come and go, but one has stood the test of time. For almost 80 years, United Coffee House has seen patrons filter in through its historical doors, seeking both nostalgia and great food. Started by Lala Hansraj Kalra in 1942, UCH was the first in the Capital to offer multiple cuisines. From American to Continental, Japanese and Chinese, and has seen India’s culinary world evolve over the many decades of Independence. Now helmed by the third generation of the Kalra family, UCH continues to hold sway with Delhiites, its Venetian chandeliers and vintage bar offering a blast from the past.
Address: E-15, Rajiv Chowk, Block E, Connaught Place, New Delhi
Indian Coffee House, Delhi
Indian Coffee House. Picture: Flickr/Souvik Das Gupta
Another coffee house that offers a bite of nostalgia is ICH, which was started during British rule in the 1930s and 40s, the first being in Mumbai. While many coffee houses were closed across cities in the 1950s, under communist leader Ayillyath Kuttiari Gopalan’s leadership, the dismissed employees formed the India Coffee Board Worker’s Co-operative Society, which started the new Indian Coffee House, which opened its first outlet in Delhi on 27th December 1957. Today, ICH has its presence across India with around 500 coffee houses. Its Delhi branch, which once was the domain of artists and political enthusiasts, today retains an unassuming vibe.
Address: Baba Kharak Singh Marg Mohan Singh Place, New Delhi
Girish Chandra Dey and Nakur Chandra Nandy, Kolkata
In operation since 1844, this sweet shop has been specialising in one sweet dish, Sandesh. Started by Girish Chandra Dey, and soon joined by his son-in-law Nakur Chandra Nandy, this hole in the wall store was a thriving business in the British-ruled Kolkata. Today, it is run by the 5th generation of Nandy family, and the quaint store is housed in a heritage building on Ramdulal Sarkar Street. If you’re in the city, locals will ask you to brave the city traffic and stand in queue outside this small sweet store to get your hands on the best sandesh in town. They were the suppliers of chocolate, parijat and mousumi sandesh for Aishwarya Rai and Abhishek Bachchan’s wedding reception!
Address: 56, Ramdulal Sarkar St, near Bethune college, Hedua, Kolkata, West Bengal
Britannia & Co, Mumbai
The facade of Britannia & Co. Picture: Instagram/britannia_co/mumbaiheritage
There is no one in Mumbai who would be unaware of this iconic Irani restaurant, or its cherry berry pulao, in the city’s maritime hub Ballard Pier. Like many Iranians who settled in Mumbai, Rashid Kohinoor, a businessman from Yazd province, started a cafe in 1923. Rashid Kohinoor was given his food and beverage licence in just 24 hours in 1923, on a condition set by the British Commissioner that his cafe carry a British name, hence Britannia. Serving authentic Persian cuisine (think baghlava, mutton dhansak) for 100 years now, Britannia & Co is synonymous with Mumbai’s old world charm. It has seen its share of history; during the Second World War, the British took over the cafe to store ammunition and its owner Boman Kohinoor also took part in the Non-Cooperation Movement. Run by the fourth generation of the Kohinoor family, this cafe is a must-visit in the city for an authentic Parsi culinary experience.
Address: Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, 16 Ballard Estate, Fort, Mumbai
Nizam’s Kolkata
It is THE spot if you’re craving Mughlai food in Kolkata. But this pre-independence era restaurant was set up by Raza Hassab in 1937 in the Hog Market. It is also credited with creating the first kathi roll, packing their succulent kebabs inside nifty paranthas for British customers who wanted to make their meals portable, and hassle-free (the kebabs were too greasy to be had on-the-go). Today, Nizam’s offers an array of delicious food, from their legendary kathi rolls to biryani and tandoori kebabs.
Address: 23 & 24, Hogg St, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal
The entrance to the Indian Coffee House on College Street in Kolkata. Image: Shutterstock/Modern Artisan
