IT WAS the smoothest and most mesmerising boat ride I have ever experienced; and the scenery was certainly breathtaking, as lush green foliage and dense vegetation flew by on both sides of the river.

I was headed to the exciting tourism highpoint of Bartica, and I was certainly anticipating the beckoning thrills my visit promised. You see, folks, I have a few associates in Bartica, and they have never cease to brag of its beauty and serene ambience.

Situated on the left bank of the Essequibo River, at the confluence of the Cuyuni and Mazaruni Rivers, Bartica –- the unofficial capital of Region 7 (Cuyuni-Mazaruni) — is considered the “Gateway to the Interior”

Bartica has a population of about 15,000 persons, and is the launching point for people who work in the interior, particularly miners.

Bartica was developed from an Anglican missionary settlement established in 1842, and the word ‘Bartica’ comes from an Amerindian word meaning ‘red earth’, which is abundant in the area.

Spotted by the British in 1887 and established in 1902, Bartica is one of Guyana’s older villages.

Currently, the population is growing, and Bartica owes its prosperity to the rich gold and diamond wealth of the Essequibo.

Miners from the area use Bartica as their first stop coming out of the interior, and as a last stop before going in. Because of this, miners often spend the majority of their earnings either buying their supplies in the village, or simply, on their first day out, either drinking or partying.

Much like a miniature Georgetown, almost anything can be bought in this one-square-mile interior hotspot.

Enjoy a boat ride up the mighty Essequibo River and be fascinated by the historical sites along the way. Embrace nature at its very best as you disembark the boat at Bartica’s stelling to begin your journey on First Avenue.

Once on this retailing hub, allow your tour guide (if you have one) to explain the history of this settlement. On First Avenue, see the retailing centre of Bartica. Visit stores and the famous Bartica Mall, where you can shop or just browse the various business centres. After leaving the mall, take a short walk to the market, where you can purchase fresh vegetables and fruits.

Relax in tranquil pleasure at Cool Square, before returning to the not-so-distant Baganara Resort or your other choice of accommodation.

HOW BARTICA GOT ITS NAME
As history would dictate, the Preamble to an 1887 ordinance in British Guiana stated that it had become necessary for the “establishment and regulation of a town” at the confluence of the Essequibo, Mazaruni, and Cuyuni rivers.

The point, known as Bartica Grove, was chosen for the new town. In 1829, the Church Missionary Society established the area to conduct missionary work, and it was known for its quiet environment surrounded by palms and mango groves.

As the community developed into a town, the name was shortened to Bartica, which is said to mean “red earth” in one of the Amerindian languages.

It was the discovery of gold in the Essequibo, Guiana’s interior, which focused imperial eyes on Bartica Grove to establish a central location to register, monitor and manage the influx of labourers entering and leaving the region’s gold lands.
The area was soon divided into rectangular grid lots, and its avenues given the simple names of First, Second, Third etc., despite then being mostly unoccupied and surrounded by sheer jungle.

However, two or three hostels were soon providing room-and-board, and a market was added, though few marketing activities flourished, and it was considered mainly thriving with rum shops at the time.

A hospital and new police station were later added.

As the land nearest the river was relatively low, a draining trench was soon dug and a koker installed. Further inland, however, the lands become hilly, and in modern times, people often resort to taking taxis to travel up and down its distant hilly slopes.

Bartica Grove was one of the earliest Anglican missionary settlements in British Guiana. The land was originally obtained from Sir Benjamin D’Urban. The mission was moved from its original site — a mile westward – to the present Bartica site in 1837, on land obtained from the Crown.

A church dedicated to St. John the Baptist had been built after a visit from the Bishop of Barbados in 1836, and it was consecrated by the Bishop of Guiana in 1843.

During the mid-19th century, a monument was erected on the avenue leading to the church, in memory of a Reverend Pierce and his family, who all died on the rapids of the Essequibo when the area served a small church and Amerindian community.

There were also plans to construct a railway from Bartica to Potaro. That, however, never materialised.

Bartica has been given the title “Gateway to the Interior” though it is often bypassed by gold companies’ air transporting workers. However, smaller categories of miners still establish bases at Bartica today.

There is also another memorial today called the “Monument of Hope” in memory of the Feb 17, 2008 Bartica massacre that left 12 persons dead and four wounded. A plaque located in the compound of the Bartica Police Station was also unveiled in honour of the policemen killed in that attack.
EDUCATION
Bartica has two secondary schools — Bartica Secondary and Three-Mile Secondary; and three primary schools — St. Anthony’s Primary, St. John-the-Baptist and Two-Mile Primary; but there are several other primary schools in the surrounding riverine communities.

HEALTH
The Region 7 hospital is located in Bartica, and is known for having implemented the country’s first Health Information System in 2005, developed by Peace Corps volunteers Geoffrey Thompson and Jason Knueppel.

TOURISM FEATURES
The Sunset Boulevard, owned by businessman Winston Miller, is the most popular fast food outlet in Bartica.

Bartica can be reached from Parika, Essequibo and Linden. The Denham Suspension Bridge, also known as the Garraway Stream Bridge, links Bartica to Mahdia.
North of Bartica lies the ruins of the Dutch fort Kyk-Over-Al, former government seat for the County of Essequibo. Bartica is also close to the Marshall Falls.

There are several hotels in the town, including the Platinum Inn, The New Modern Hotel, Balkarran’s Guest House (D factor to D interior), and Zen’s Plaza. There is also a thriving nightclub located in the Modern Hotel building.

Several Brazilians live in Bartica, so one can find Brazilian restaurants and bars. There are several restaurants as well as local fast food joints, including Sunset Boulevard, which is a perfect place to meet and have a bite while getting information from locals. There are also several resorts around the Bartica area, including Baganara, Shanklands, Whitewater and a guest house in Byderabo.

During the Easter weekend every year, Bartica hosts the Bartica Regatta, with a growing variety of entertaining holiday activities, including water sports (featuring mostly speed boats), cricket, boxing, soccer, talent shows, a street parade, and a Miss Bartica Regatta Pageant. The Regatta attracts people from all parts of Guyana, and even from other countries. There is also a summer Regatta, which is held annually in August.

Ivor Mendonca, a former Guyanese and West Indian cricketer, was born in Bartica. Dianne Ferreira-James, international FIFA referee, is also from Bartica. Her father was one of the twelve people killed during the February 17, 2008 Bartica massacre.

OUR ARRIVAL
Our arrival at the Bartica Stelling was met with enthusiastic smiles from sturdy young men, ready to run our bags to waiting vehicles for a small fee, and by noisy taxi drivers, all bustling to be the first to solicit passengers.

Everyone was open and friendly, and was ready to chat as we made enquiries. Drivers gave a detailed description of Bartica, while fruit and vegetable vendors mouthed much needed information even as they tried to net valuable sales from visitors.

As we trudged through First Avenue and other locations, I was somewhat awed by the distinctively simple but festive ambience more mirrored with the pleasant smiles and salutations of the friendly people. Bartica is certainly the location that the curious at heart would desire to visit from time to time.

HISTORY OF THE BARTICA REGATTA
The annual Bartica Regatta is indeed a mega-activity anticipated by Barticians and visitors from around Guyana and even from the diaspora. But even as this event is rich in its entertainment and leisure-time opportunities, I am sure that readers are quite curious about its origin.

In July 1947, a yacht that had crossed the Atlantic passed through Bartica with a fast run-about powered by a 22 horsepower onboard engine. The owner of the yacht enjoyed speeding across the magnificent Essequibo River, and soon the public was hooked.

A challenger in the person of Charles Guthrie, Manager of the Bartica Electrical Works at the said time, possessed an aluminium utility boat that was also powered by a 22 horsepower onboard engine. That historical race between the two on the Essequibo, needless to say, attracted almost the entire surrounding population.

The trans-Atlantic yachtsman who sailed forty-odd miles up the Essequibo River to Bartica created double history by being the first and probably only overseas yachtsman to have displayed such adventurous river navigation skills in Guyana, and it was he who provided the inspiration for the Bartica Regatta as we know it today.

The event has since grown and matured into an annual calendar event which attracts both regional and international visitors. It is exciting and colourful, and most of all a thrilling adventure for the entire family.

It is truly a one-of-a-kind event, and is undoubtedly amazing. The main attraction is, of course, the exciting speed boat races. You would doubtless gasp in awe at the amazing skills of these river “athletes.”

Apart from the racing, at this event, the Bartica Regatta Pageant is also held, which showcases a bevy of beauties from all over Bartica. Enjoy tantalising food, drinks, and of course colourful kite flying. It’s truly a “can’t miss” event.

ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD
There are four reputable hotels in Bartica. Zen’s and Castillo’s are both central and pricey. Castillo’s has a lively bar at night, but tends to be noisy. Zen’s is off the High Street and so is quieter. Hotel Modern is cheap, central and clean, although very noisy. However, with the transcending of time, several smaller hotels have been popping up around Bartica, as persons begin to tap in on the lucrative business of hotel accommodation.

All three of the most popular hotels are close to the main stelling. Hi-Lo Hotel is situated at the far end of the main street (about a 10-minute walk to the main stelling) but it does have a landing opposite, if you can persuade the boatman to drop you straight there. It is very clean, quiet and reasonably priced.

Bartica is a large town, and so has shops selling everything! Beware though! Barticians take a siesta, so everything closes in the afternoon and opens late into the night.

MASSACRE
Bartica was always a very busy settlement where everyone bustled about and enjoyed a life of prosperity and great splendour. However, a few years ago, Barticians’ jolly existence was abruptly tilted ‘haywire’ when a local armed gang invaded their privacy.

On February 17, 2008, Bartica was allegedly attacked by Rondell Rawlins’s heavily armed gang. Twelve people, including three policemen, were shot dead as the gang terrorised the town. The Bartica Police Station was overrun by the gunmen during the rampage, and several business places were robbed during the hour-long mayhem. The gang and attack is believed to have been linked to the Lusignan Massacre that occurred three weeks earlier. The perpetrators were killed on August 28, 2008 at one of their hideouts near the Guyanese capital, Georgetown, in a shootout with the police.

INTERACTING WITH RESIDENTS
What is quite evident, from my interactions with several residents, is that life is ‘quite nice’ in Bartica, and residents do what they can to make an honest living.

Barticians ‘just love to party’, and would spend great sums to satisfy their entertainment whims and fantasies. Clubs and other hot spots would open almost every night for relaxation purposes or to allow residents to engage in their customary ‘revelling night life.’ With the arrival of so many Brazilians to this location, the level of entertainment activity has heightened greatly over the years, according to residents.

They noted also that the employment status of residents is good, since everyone is employed in one job or another. From pushing carts to teaching, shop keeping or selling, Barticians have found a way to exist, if not comfortably in some cases, at least at a level that could be tolerated.

Many seek their fortunes in the hinterland areas pursuing gains from gold, diamond and other precious stones; and their successful exploits are often mirrored by the festive jubilation which can last for weeks upon their return from the ‘gold bush’, as they would say.

EVERY LOCATION HAS ITS TROUBLES
If we are honest with ourselves, we would agree that almost every location around the globe has its troubles, and Bartica is no exception.

Among issues discussed by some residents was the recent closure of the Gold Board Office in Bartica.

Of course they were referring to the incident which occurred just last month, when the Guyana Gold Board (GGB) had called in the police to investigate gold tampering at Bartica during the purchasing process.

A release issued said that, in order to facilitate the investigation, the Natural Resources and Environment Ministry has accepted the decision of the GGB directors to temporarily cease all operations at the Bartica sub-office.

SAD TIDINGS
Despite the festive and happy mood of residents, many still remember that dreadful episode when an armed gang attacked the location, raiding premises and businesses, and murdering the innocent in their greed for fast money and riches.

Some degree of security has returned to the location with the beefing up of security forces, but some residents are of the view that crime fighting authorities should be given more vehicles in the form of additional boats, land vehicles, and even helicopters.

BARTICA DESIGNER PLACING GUYANA ON THE MAP
The annual Guyana Folk Festival, held during the pre-Labour Day festivities in Brooklyn, New York, got a fashion boost this year with eminent Bartician Sonia Noel presenting her designs alongside the three winners of Designers’ Portfolio 2012.

At that event, all Guyanese, those of Guyanese descent, some Caribbean natives and Brooklyn well-wishers gather to affirm the presence of the Guyana flag in New York.

The strong display of Guyanese style headlined by Noel definitely catches the attention of the massive crowds.

Andy Cummings’s winning depiction of Hassar Curry kicked off the fashion segment in fine style. Shameeza Subrattie’s Tribute to Powerful Mothers, with her signature yellow, black, and green borrowed from the flag, served as another fitting tribute to Guyanese identity. Mwanza Glenn followed with his Accolade to Nubian Pride, with his marriage of tropical glory and African majesty.

The Designers’ Portfolio 2012 was well represented. “When I was invited to showcase my designs at the Guyana Folk Festival, I immediately thought of including the winners; because if I am serious about the industry, I have to look at the big picture,” Sonia Noel posited.

The hallmark presentation came from the grand dame of Guyanese fashion, whose style speaks volumes. Her classic Amerindian collage art applications were also prominently displayed with layers of seeds, beads and bamboo motifs.

Noel never forgets to feature her interesting textile art through her unique tie-dye application.

The response was overwhelming, as Caribbean fashion guru Richard Young rounded up the evening’s presentation for a very attentive and appreciative audience.

CONCLUSION
Despite a few setbacks and past gruesome experiences, Barticians have learnt to nurse their wounds, and have returned to their customary festive way of life.

With its pristinely exotic valleys, beckoning green hills, and lush, almost pretty alleys, Bartica does not only reek of stupendous tourism potential, but also can, with the right grooming, become Guyana’s biggest tourism attraction.

If you are dying to visit an extra special location that is filled with many of nature’s wonders, then Bartica is just the place for you. Why not call me up, and let’s together enjoy the boat ride and all that Bartica has to offer.