An Ultimate Guide to Visiting Comoros – Africa’s Hidden Gem

Comoros may be one of the world's poorest nations, but it's also one of the least visited. It can be hard to understand why this is the case, given some of the incredible experiences that await travellers.

In this ultimate guide to visiting Comoros I'll delve into what makes the archipelago in the Indian Ocean so special, despite the challenges it faces.

To start with, there’s a rich heritage: Portuguese traders, Swahili immigrants and Arab merchants have all spent time here, leaving behind various insignia as testimony. There’s also a swathe of natural wonders to pique curiosity, including Indigenous vanilla and ylang ylang plantations, the world’s largest active volcano and stunning rainforests (particularly on Moheli). There are also European legacies that endure, including use of French as one of the main languages (alongside Comorian, a Swahili derivative, and Arabic). Few people speak English.

But after having spent 16 days between the three islands, some less-than-ideal realities transpired: litter and waste disposal is problematic, leaving some areas of black lava rock (near the water) covered in trash; healthcare is basic, forcing those with slight affluence to get advanced care in neighbouring Madagascar or Reunion (although a large new hospital is currently under construction [2023]); infrastructure is limited, the country outside of Moroni (the capital and main city of Grande Comore) replete with pothole-littered roads and basic public services; and communication can be problematic if you don’t speak French or Comorian (no fault of Comorians).

As a result, tourism has never boomed which (selfishly for me) is ideal … but it hasn’t been so good for the economic development of Comoros.

Despite the trash, much of the nation (comprised of three main islands: Grande Comore; Moheli; and Anjouan) is environmentally pure, and rich in diversity. Comorians are kind, genuinely curious about visitors and obliging - personal safety is rarely compromised and ‘tourist-traps’ are uncommon. And getting around can be an adventure (albeit not always safe): flights are sometimes delayed or cancelled; and boats that link the islands can be overfilled and occasionally sink (but not the ferries - they are safe).

Although at times fuelled by frustration, the 16-day journey - in hindsight - was an adventure, a world away from the cookie-cutter tourist experiences one can have in some nearby African nations.

Would I return? Perhaps not. Am I glad I went? Yes, most certainly!

The rest of this ultimate guide to visiting Comoros outlines what I did during my stay as a solo traveller in the country, with titbits of practical advice peppered throughout and at the end, for your benefit.

Happy reading and travels!  

Solo Travel Note Relevant to this Ultimate Guide to Visiting Comoros

Aside from typical frustrations of getting around, dealing with developing world realities, and circumnavigating the unofficial dual currency system, the only significant issue I experienced (fault of my own) was an inability to effectively communicate. My French is basic, and it limited the interactions I could have with Comorians.

I thrive on cultural exchange - talking to locals while sitting on a bus, walking in the street or shopping at a market, are some of my favourite interactions.

Given that I visited during wet season (known officially as the humid season, between December and April), I also halved my chances of meeting other travellers. So, I ended up with a touch of island fever; I felt isolated.

Conversing with others was a challenge. Google translate was minimally helpful.

The key? Knowing French.

Language aside, I never felt unsafe (even walking alone at night).  It’s a great destination for solo travellers, perhaps even an ideal place (if you seek authenticity and untouched natural beauty with options for complete solitude) … particularly if you speak French!

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GRANDE COMORE (Ngazidja)

Grande Comore, the largest of the three islands that make up Comoros, is also the first destination on which visitors step foot in Comoros (unless coming from Mayotte).  It’s home to the capital city of Moroni.

But what sets Grande Comore apart from other destinations is its authenticity. Unlike the tourist hotspots of nearby Kenya and Tanzania, Grande Comore has not been overrun by mass tourism. This means that visitors can experience the island in a more genuine way, with fewer crowds and a more authentic cultural experience.

The island's natural beauty is also largely unspoiled (aside from some of the black lava by the water), with lush rainforests that offer a glimpse into the untouched wilderness of the region.

While the island may have its challenges, including limited infrastructure and waste disposal issues, these should not deter you from exploring it. For those seeking a true adventure and a chance to connect with the local culture and environment, Grande Comore is the perfect destination.

With an open mind (and a very keen sense of adventure), you can have a truly unforgettable experience here.

Let’s take a look at some of the island’s key features. 

Moroni

It’s the vibrant and bustling heart of the island that offers a fusion of cultures and traditions. With influences from African, Arab, and French cultures, the city has a rich history that is reflected in its architecture, cuisine, and people.

Explore colourful markets, stroll through its neighbourhoods, and relax on its beautiful beaches (such as Itsandra).

I grew fond of its authenticity – it’s entirely unpretentious. 

The following sights are some of the highlights. 

Itsandra Beach 

It’s a hidden gem that shouldn’t be missed. The stretch of white sand is the place to go for a chance to soak up the sun and enjoy crystal-clear Indian Ocean waters. 

As the sun begins to set, the beach comes to life with vibrancy.  Men play football, their bodies silhouetted against the warm, orange glow of the sunset.  Children swim with their families, while other beachgoers gather at the beachside bar (as did I) for a drink. 

If you’re looking for a place to relax and unwind or take part in games, go to Itsandra Beach. 

Volo Volo Market 

It’s a bustling hub of activity at the core of the city.  For a full immersion in the sights, sounds, and smells of daily life in Moroni, then the market is a must-visit itinerary stop. 

It teems with vendors (on most days) who sell everything from fresh produce and spices to handmade crafts and textiles.  The air is often filled with the sounds of lively bargaining (and horns honking, given it’s on a main street, not far from the hospital). 

It’s the perfect place to spend an hour or two experiencing the energy of the Comorian people. 

Grande Mosquée du Moroni (aka Old Friday Mosque or Ancienne Mosquee du Vendredi)

The mosque is one of the most important religious landmarks in Comoros.  Located in the heart of Moroni, access is easy. It’s also highly photogenic (and popularly photographed), so be sure to capture some shots while in the vicinity. 

Spend time admiring carvings, and details of the mosque’s façade.  Observe the peace of the interior.  It’s an important religious landmark for many of the island’s inhabitants.

As call to prayer echoes, feel the tranquillity that ensues (wherever you are in the city), then listen for the rustling of prayer mats.  Note the modest dress.   

If you visit the mosque and plan to enter the interior, remember to dress modestly (with shoulders, arms, navel, knees, and ankles covered), and remove shoes which are to be left outside. 

The Port

The bustling port is the gateway to Comoros and a hub of trade and commerce. 

I passed my time observing the comings and goings of ships (particularly brilliant at dusk), watching as goods were unloaded, and being entertained by the hive of activity nearby.  The salty sea air is filled with the sounds of clanging chains and the smell of fish.  It’s an entertaining and atmospheric way to pass some time. 

A highlight is watching fishermen move away from shore (often in dugout canoes) then return later with their daily catches.  Get your hands on some fresh fish by visiting a restaurant for lunch or dinner (recommended below). 

Medina and the Market

The Medina is a bustling hub of activity.  Become immersed in daily life by wandering through the maze of narrow walkways between shops and homes.   You’ll find vendors selling all kinds of goods, including produce, crafts, clothing, and food. 

Observe the men sitting in groups, playing dominoes and cards.  Sit and ask to play (if you have time).

Getting lost is not unusual (as it’s a maze), and don’t be embarrassed if you accidentally enter someone’s house, having mistaken it for a shop (as did I).  Apologise (while wielding a hearty smile) and continue weaving your way through the streets. 

Iconi (South of Moroni)

Located also on the west coast of Grande Comore, five kilometres south of Moroni, is Iconi. It has many characteristics you’d want of a picturesque, historic village on an island: turquoise waters ideal for swimming and snorkelling; narrow streets with an old-world charm; historic buildings (including a mosque); friendly unabashed locals; and crumbling palace ruins dating to the 16^th century. 

Taking the journey south of Moroni to Iconi is a worthy endeavour.  Spending time in Iconi – even if it’s only for a few hours – will provide a brief history lesson and give you a morning or afternoon of rest, relaxation and then adventure (in rustic surrounds). 

Here’s what you can expect to see.

Palace Ruins

Imagine wandering under archways, through courtyards and up the limestone steps of a centuries-old palace.  Kids splash in a nearby pond (to the backdrop of a mosque) in synchrony to waves splashing against the shore that you can see through a hole in the crumbling wall. 

As you explore the ruins, you’ll feel whispers of the past.  Ancient cries may echo against the coral-limestone walls, of women who once jumped from the cliffs adjacent the palace (to avoid capture by Malagasy pirates). 

The Palace ruins of Iconi date back to the 16^th century.  Built under the leadership of Sultan Said Ali bin Said Omar (a notable member of the Ya’aruba dynasty), they were once a majestic residence of the noblesse, and a centre of political and cultural life. 

Take your time wandering around.  Snap a cheeky shot of you posing through a window. 

Iconi Mosque and the Pond 

Located behind the Palace ruins is Iconi Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Comoros.  Its white walls and elegant minaret are distinctive and pay architectural homage to the country’s Islamic heritage.

I didn’t venture inside but the same rules as visiting any mosque apply (and they’re listed above). 

Spend some time sitting by the pool between the mosque and the ruins – they’re an afternoon favourite of local children who’ll likely want to entertain you and have you play with them.

Trou Du Prophète and beaches around Mitsamiouli (north of Moroni)

37 kilometres north of Moroni (on the northern tip of the island), is Trou du Prophete (along with many other beaches and towns, including Mitsamiouli).  According to local lore, it’s where Prophet Mohamed landed.  Under French rule, the bay was a favourite anchoring spot for sailors.

After wandering down the long road (if you’re travelling by taxi bousse), you’ll be greeted by historical remnants and a scintillating blue, calm inlet.  Wander along the shoreline, follow your nose to ylang ylang plantations, be hypnotised by the dugout canoes gently rocking in the water, and unwind. 

This is the place to relax under a baobab tree and let the magic of the surrounding environment envelop you.   

There’s accommodation with a small – and very humble – restaurant, so it might be the perfect place to stay for a few days.  I had only a day to spare but I could have easily stayed longer.

Other Attractions on Grande Comore (that I didn’t visit)

As I wanted to cover all three islands in the Archipelago (including Moheli and Anjouan), I didn’t have sufficient time to visit the following sites.  But they’re worthy of being included (or so I’ve been told). 

Mount Karthala  

On the southern end of the island is an active volcano called Mouth Karthala, its last eruption occurring in 2005. It takes up over 60% of the island’s surface area. 

It’s not a place you go for a stroll; visiting Mount Karthala means hiking and trekking (but it could be achieved starting at 4am, before sunrise, and finishing a while later).  Some visitors opt to do a two-day hike, which requires the use of a guide (and it’ll set you back around 100 Euro a day). 

The hike-cum-trek begins at 300 metres and ends at the summit of 2,361 metres.  From what I’m told, you’ll pass thick jungle, walk across a tundra and see fields of black ash.  It’s one of the biggest craters in the world.

Lac Sale

A visit to Lac Sale, a small crater in the northern part of Grande Comore, is another unique experience.  The lake’s name, translated “salty lake”, refers to the high concentration of salt in the water.

Surrounded by lush greenery and enclosed by a crater, the green water of the lake is beautiful (or so I’m told).  Beyond the crater are beaches and the ocean.

Take a leisurely stroll around the lake’s perimeter and climb the hill behind the lake for a panoramic view. 

MOHÉLI (Mwali)

Moheli, the smallest of the Comorian islands, is a hidden gem nestled in the Indian Ocean, a paradise for the adventurous traveller seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience.

This low-impact destination is a world away from the hustle and bustle of modern life, offering a tranquil, unspoiled natural beauty that is a balm to the soul. From the rugged, untamed coastline to the dense, lush forests teeming with exotic wildlife, Moheli is a living, breathing testament to the wonders of the natural world.

But make no mistake: this is not easy travel – journeys on Moheli can be long and challenging, as the infrastructure is basic and the roads are often in poor condition.

You’ll be rewarded by being mostly alone as tourism is light – few people make the journey.  For those with the heart of an adventurer, the rewards are immeasurable – a chance to discover a place that few have seen, to connect with nature in its purest form, and to experience a way of life that has remained largely unchanged. 

I fell in love with Moheli. 

Here’s what I saw and experienced. 

Nioumachoua (South) 

Nioumanchoua is a small village located on the southern side of Moheli (the opposite side to Fomboni which is where you’ll find the airport).  

There’s little to the village, aside from food shops, a post office, and peoples’ humble homes (which are often basic concrete structures or huts beside the beach).  Roads are often made of dirt and animals roam freely, the occasional goat emerging from beneath an upturned fishing boat on the beach.  Wandering through town gives visitors an opportunity to experience authentic village life as it’s been lived through the decades.

Despite the simplicity of village life, Nioumanchoua is not lacking in natural beauty. The lush rainforest that surrounds the village provides a stunning backdrop to the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.  Expect to find a tranquil and unspoiled natural environment with breath-taking scenery.

Mohéli Marine Park (South) 

Going on a speedboat adventure with just a guide through the Moheli Marine Park is another thrilling experience.

I felt the wind rushing through my hair as I zipped across the turquoise waters, making way towards the peaks that make up the park. My guide pointed out the various wildlife that can be seen along the way, from pods of dolphins (none of which I saw leaping out of the water) to sea turtles lazily swimming near the surface.

Once you arrive at the islands, there are opportunities to snorkel, hike through rainforest (to catch a glimpse of rare bird species) or simply wander around the white sandy shores in contemplation.

As you head back to Nioumanchoua, you'll be filled with awe, I promise!

Livingstone's Fruit Bat Trek and Sightings (South) 

For thrill and some adventure, hop on the back of a motorbike (behind a local guide) in the pursuit of seeing Livingstone’s Fruit Bat – one of the largest in the world with a wingspan of 1.5 metres.

The guide took me on a bumpy ride to the forest after which we trekked - in near 100% humidity … then rain - in search of the elusive bat (which I later saw while driving around Anjouan).

The hike goes through lush vegetation, so dense at times it’s difficult to see a way forward.  Keen an eye peeled for wildlife such as monkeys and colourful birds.

At the end of the trek, the lovely French- and Swahili-speaking guide escorted me back to Vanilla Lodge and offered me some of his homemade ylang ylang – a popular scent native to Comoros.

Although the trip was arduous (mostly due to the humidity), it was lots of fun.  I may not do it again, given the chance, but I’ve included it here for those who wish to engage their sense of adventure. 

Itsamia Beach, Baobab Trees and Turtle Spawning Observation (East) 

Nestled on the far eastern tip of Moheli lies the village of Itsamia. Despite its small size, this hidden gem is a must-see destination for any traveller seeking to further experience the island’s natural beauty.

The journey from Nioumanchoua to Itsamia was not without its challenges, as the road had been partially washed away by cyclones, leaving large holes that had to be navigated. However, the stunning scenery that surrounded us (the driver being my companion), made it worth the effort.

Upon arrival in Itsamia, take a leisurely stroll along the beach, go for a dip and explore the baobab trees standing nearby. I was lucky enough to meet a Comorian ex-boxer who guided me for the afternoon (even though we didn’t speak a common language). 

One of the highlights of visiting Itsamia is the opportunity to witness sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. I was alone, waiting until after dusk for them to appear.  Sadly, none came ashore.  So, I’d recommend staying a night or two to increase your chances of seeing them.  It would be a magical experience. 

As you explore the village, you'll encounter friendly locals who are eager to chat. I had the opportunity to lend a helping hand, providing first aid to a young man with a severe wound on his leg. He was grateful for the care and attention, and I was thankful I could provide help (particularly in a low-resource area).

At the end of the day, I returned to Vanilla Lodge with memories that will last a lifetime.

ANJOUAN (Nzwani)

Looking for another adventure that's also off the tourist radar? Anjouan beckons, the third Comorian island in the trio that’s bursting with untold natural beauty and cultural wonders that will take your breath away.

Feel the thrill of exploring the untouched rainforests, with their diverse flora and fauna that seem straight out of a fairytale. Swim in the turquoise waters, alive with vibrant sea life. And when it comes to immersing yourself in the island's heritage, Anjouan's rich and authentic traditions are humbling.

From the winding streets of Mutsamudu's bustling markets to the charming hilltop villages that offer stunning panoramic views, Anjouan promises a trip like no other, a feast for all senses.

It’s yet another gem in Comoros waiting to be uncovered.

Here are the sights I saw and the experiences I had while in Anjouan. 

Mutsamudu (North-West)

Welcome to Mutsamudu, the main city on the island of Anjouan. It’s a bustling port city with a rich cultural heritage and a vibrant market scene.

The winding alleys, whitewashed buildings, and traditional mosques are a testament to the island's long and storied history, while its lively markets offer a glimpse into the everyday life of the local population.

Whether you're exploring the town's historic landmarks, wandering through the markets, or simply soaking up the sun on one of the nearby beaches, Mutsamudu is sure to enchant you – it did me.

Here are a few of the things you can consider doing with a day or two in Mutsamudu.

Waterfall 

Are you ready for an adventure off the beaten path in Mutsamudu? Follow a hand-drawn map provided by a friendly hotel manager to discover a hidden waterfall (albeit a small one). The road leading off the Marche Municipale (outdoor market) will take you into the forest, where you'll be surrounded by lush greenery and the sound of rushing water.

You'll feel like a true explorer as you navigate the twisting path, and when you finally arrive at the waterfall, you'll be rewarded.  Take a refreshing dip in the waterhole at its base (if you feel it’s sufficiently clean … I didn’t) and join in the fun as local children (mostly boys) splash around and play.  Observe as people from the nearby village bathe in parts of the stream, prepare food (such as washing and cutting mangoes) or attend to other chores of daily living.

It's an adventure!

I wouldn’t have found it had it not been for the manager of Karama Hotel!   Don’t be afraid to ask for directions.

Marche Municipale (Outdoor Market)

A visit to the Marche Municipale in Mutsamudu is a must-do experience for anyone looking to immerse themselves in local culture. This bustling outdoor market is in the heart of the city and is a vibrant hub of activity.

You'll find vendors selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to clothing. Be sure to keep an eye out for the colourful spices, fragrant herbs, and local delicacies like mabawa, a popular fried dough snack.

As you wander through the market, you'll be greeted by friendly vendors and the sounds of bargaining and haggling.

It was an authentic and lively experience for me!

Citadel

The citadel is a historic landmark that's not to be missed.

Built in the 15th century, it played a crucial role in the island's defence against foreign invaders. Today, visitors can explore the winding passageways leading to its entrance and experience breathtaking views (the best in Mutsamudu) of the city. Imagine what life was like for the soldiers who once called it home.

To get there, head to the Old Town and look for the signs leading up the hill (if you can find them).  Otherwise, use MapsMe or simply ask a local for directions.  People are only too happy to help.

It's a bit of a climb, but as I said before, the views are well worth it. Once you arrive, take your time exploring the citadel's nooks and crannies, and be sure to snap a few photos of the stunning views from the top.

Fish Market

If you're a seafood lover (or you aren’t but you can tolerate the fishy smell), a visit to the fish market in Mutsamudu is a must-do on your Anjouan itinerary.

Located just a short distance from Karama Hotel, the market is a hub of activity (particularly in the early evening), with fishmongers slicing and dicing all manner of fresh seafood, including tuna, the local staple.

The fish is sourced from the surrounding waters and is often caught and sold on the same day, ensuring maximum freshness and flavour.

So head down to the market, take in the sights and sounds, and maybe even pick up some fresh seafood to cook for dinner (if your hotel or residence has cooking facilities … mine did not).

Al Amal Beach

Al Amal Beach and Hotel is a sight in the top end of Mutsamudu (a long walk from my lodgings at Karama Hotel).

The secluded beach boasts crystal-clear waters and soft white sand, offering the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of town.

The hotel on the beach is a peaceful retreat, where you can relax and enjoy the stunning scenery (although the pool was empty during my day-visit).  The restaurant serves decent fare at reasonable prices.

Whether you want to swim, sunbathe, or take a stroll along the shore, Al Amal Beach is the place to unwind.

En route to Al Amal, it started raining and I was invited into the home of a beautiful Comorian family to shelter in place until the storm passed.  They offered me food and I watched a film with the children.  It was one of the nicest moments of my time on Anjouan. 

Unexpected things happen all the time when we are open to new experiences.

Day Trip Around Island

If you're short on time and want to get a glimpse of the stunning landscapes and attractions of Anjouan, a day trip with a local driver (like Laidine) is a great option. The day will be filled with scenic drives along the island's winding roads, passing through lush forests and between towering mountains.

While some of the roads along the western coast may be in poor condition (which will slow the journey down), taking this route will showcase the island's beauty.

Despite being a long day, the experience is well worth it to get a taste of what Anjouan has to offer.

It was during the drive through the interior that I saw Livingstone's Fruit Bats (which were elusive during my rainforest trek on Moheli).  

Here’s what I saw and did during the day trip. 

Tsembehou (Centre of Island)

Nestled in an interior valley of Anjouan (in the centre of the island) and ringed with cliffs, is Tsembehou (the third-largest city in Anjouan). 

Of highlight is the bridge overlooking a ravine which provides stunning views of the island’s nature. 

As Laidine (the guide) and I didn’t speak a common language, there was no discussion about visiting other sites in the city.  We simply stopped for this photo opportunity then drove to the next destination on the itinerary.    So, I can’t tell you much more about it!  But I believe it’s on the way to the others sites (listed below). 

Dzia Landze Lake (Centre of Island)

Dzia Landze Lake is a natural freshwater lake in the island’s interior that’s surrounded by lush greenery and towering mountains - a stunning setting for a visit.

However, visitors should be aware that the path leading from the road to the lake is fairly steep and muddy, so proper shoes are recommended. I had flip flops (stupidly) which made the journey a little treacherous (considering it had recently rained).

To get the best shots of the lake, you could climb up to the rocky outcropping on the opposite side of the lake, which offers a stunning panoramic view (which I didn't do, as you can see from the picture above and the one below).

Including a visit to Dzia Landze Lake as part of your day trip around Anjouan is a great way to experience some of Anjouan’s natural beauty.

Moya Beach and Bungalows (South of Island) 

Moya is another stop that I’d recommend including on your day trip itinerary.

What makes Moya special is its beach, which boasts crystal-clear waters and soft white sand. Take a dip in the water then relax under the shade of the palm trees.   Afterwards, try some fresh seafood at a local restaurant.

Even if the weather isn't great (like during my visit when it was pouring rain), there are still some great options for shelter and dining. 

Laidine (my guide) and I visited Hotel Le Sultan, a picturesque series of bungalows by the beach.  We enjoyed fresh grilled fish accompanied by fried banana while in the company of a French couple enjoying a more long-term retreat in Moya.

Moya is a great addition to an itinerary exploring Anjouan (particularly if the weather is sunny).

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO VISITING COMOROS - CONCLUSION 

There you have the journey I undertook in Comoros, a unique trip unlike most others.  It offered a chance to experience a world that is mostly untouched by tourism with streaks of authenticity running through the core of each island.  

Comoros is a destination that is sure to leave a lasting impression.  It's authentic.  It's (mostly) untouched.  It's engrossing.  It got under my skin and it will hopefully do the same for you.  But plan carefully to ensure you get the most out of it.  

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO VISITING COMOROS - NOTE

There are inclusions and exclusions that can be completed to personalise the itinerary, depending on personal preferences.  It can be done within the timeframes suggested, slowed down or even accelerated a little.  

It really does depend on you, your budget, preferences and time constraints.  It also depends a bit on availability of services in Comoros (as infrastructure isn't great and things like flights can be cancelled without warning).  Some flexibility is needed. 

Please feel free to contact me regarding anything you’ve read in this guide.